Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Loren knows all :) Thanks! I did a search for "Steering Wheel Switching" and came up with a boatload of previous posts with the same issue. This thread here has links to a number of them. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...wheel+switching Thank you guys. Sorry for not digging this one up on my own first.
bmblack34 started following Convertible Top Plastic Window Repair?, 986 Horn Trouble - Only works when hey is not in ignition..., '01 Boxster with 60k, Runs Rough in the AM and and 3 others
Ok gents... I got a weird one I need help solving. I have a 2001 Boxster (986) and I have been having on and off again horn issues. I have been through the list of possible problems fuses, relays, bad horn, etc. and I have narrowed it down to some very weird circumstances where my horn does and doesn't work that I am consistently able to reproduce. My horn works perfectly, before the car has started and before the key is in the ignition. However, as soon as I turn the engine on or turn the key enough that the battery light and radio come on my horn no long works until I remove the key from the ignition again. This makes no sense to me... and I am really hoping that one of you guys who might be familiar with the wiring on my car can lend me a hand. But where the heck do I go from here? How do I trouble shoot this? Any ideas you guys have would be extremely helpful. Thanks!
Thanks for the input Loren. I have kind of been leaning the same direction. I have a feeling the gas station I have been using for the past few months (I just moved) isn't as clean as they claim they are. Is chasing this one down as simple as running some fuel cleaner through the car/fuel lines? or is there something more you recommend I do? I found this on the PCA website. http://www.pca.org/tech/tech_qa_question.a...8-17027E9498E4} The guy describes a very similar problem, but he had his dealer do the cleaning. Is that necessary or can I do the work in my driveway? Thanks again, Brandon
Check engine lite...on? smooth out after it warms up? Cold starts require more fuel. Yours is probably getting to much or getting to little. Haven't a clue as to the mechanisms and/or electronics that acomplish this. PK No check engine light, but it definitely smooths out significantly after I get above 50MPH for a few minutes and the engine warms up.
I have a 2001 Boxster and I just rolled over 60k miles with it. Recently, it has been idling and running very rough in the mornings. For a while I thought my tires were out of balance, then I realized it's only happening in the mornings after the car has been sitting all night now that it is beginning to get cooler at night again. I have also observed the RPM needle dropping and rising a bit as the car idles when you first start it and its been sitting a while. Not ver much, and it still appears to be idling at the correct speed, but there is a little bob in the motion of the needle that may be related to its rough running in the mornings. What can I do to make sure my car is running smooth and healthy? Does the timing need to be adjusted? Is there a recommended 60k tune up I should run through? Any advice on the subject would be much appreciated.
Today I noticed that my left rear of the car was sagging a bit. Did a little poking around on the suspension and figured out that my left rear shock on my '01 Boxster is having trouble. I guess it's time to do some replacements :( So... I need a little help from you brilliant people. Where can I get the best deal on a pair of rear shocks? I want something good, but I also don't want to pay a whole lot for them. I have no desire to break the bank replacing these. Also, I need to know how to replace these bad boys... I did a rear shock replacement years ago in an old BMW I had but I have no clue what to do on this particular piece of fine german engineering. Does anyone know of a good, detailed (preferably with pictures) set of instructions on how to replace rear shocks in a Boxster? Thank you all in advance for any help, advice, or instructions! Brandon
Tool Pants Knows All!
I just took a look and you are right. Seems right now the cheapest you can get from them is $695. I guess these things are cheaper in the dead of winter when business is slow. I'm sure business picks up for them when spring rolls around and every starts getting their cars ready for summer. Supply and demand. I bought mine the first week of January and paid $350 from the user topsonline.com. As I recall, they had several others on there at that time and the buy it know was around $390. They were definitely cheaper a few months ago. Right now the only ones you can get on that price range are the ones with plastic windows. I guess keep checking back and hope those prices fall again... maybe end of summer or late fall. Lots of people don't like the sonnedeck because its not german. But trust me, the nationality of your canvas top won't bother you after you see it on there. It looks great, works great, and like I said... I think is much better than the OEM top that came with the car. It's definitely a quality top. I wouldn't hesitate to pay $700 or more for it. Does the new top with the glass window reduce the noise from outside over the OEM version? It did help a little. Not a whole lot, but it did make a difference.
I just took a look and you are right. Seems right now the cheapest you can get from them is $695. I guess these things are cheaper in the dead of winter when business is slow. I'm sure business picks up for them when spring rolls around and every starts getting their cars ready for summer. Supply and demand. I bought mine the first week of January and paid $350 from the user topsonline.com. As I recall, they had several others on there at that time and the buy it know was around $390. They were definitely cheaper a few months ago. Right now the only ones you can get on that price range are the ones with plastic windows. I guess keep checking back and hope those prices fall again... maybe end of summer or late fall. Lots of people don't like the sonnedeck because its not german. But trust me, the nationality of your canvas top won't bother you after you see it on there. It looks great, works great, and like I said... I think is much better than the OEM top that came with the car. It's definitely a quality top. I wouldn't hesitate to pay $700 or more for it.
I just replaced mine a few months ago. I went with one of the Robbins tops with a glass window. It even has hookups for a rear defroster. I got mine for only $350 on ebay from TopsOnline and only paid an additional $400 to get installed in January. I think it was about 9.5 hrs of labor. It was well worth the money. The Robbins top is real nice and I think it is better made that the OEM top I previously had on it and only a fraction of the price. I have been very happy with how it turned out. Here are some pics. The top is wet in these pics because it just rained, but im sure you can get the idea.
I ran into the same issue a few months ago. I went to every shop in town trying to find the best way to resolve it. What I learned is that, in order to just replace the vinyl window... they all pretty much charged you the same labor that it would take to just replace the entire top. Basically, in order to sow a new window in they had to do just as much labor and the results were not really guaranteed. Either way, the still have to take the entire top off the car to replace the window and the assemble it back on the car again later. In the end it wouldn't have really saved me any money and I would have been doing it again before too long. I hopped on ebay and TopsOnline.com has some Robbins tops with glass windows for $350... thats right sports fans... I only paid $350 and it was only an additional $400 to get it installed by a local installer. It was a great deal, and I am very very happy with the way it turned out. I strongly recommend you ditch the crappy vinyl window asap and get one of the Robbins or GAHH glass windows. It's worth the money and you save yourself the same headache later on. :clapping: Here are some pics of how mine turned out.
One weird thing I noticed was that when I lock the car it still beeps (i have an after market radio) and the horn still beeps when the alarm goes off. Is the horn I am hearing the same horn that my steering wheel is attached too? If so, to me that indicates that something actually wrong inside the steering wheel rather than with the horn.
Hi all! I was enjoying a nice drive on the blue ridge parkway last weekend when some yahoo pulled out in front of me when I was going about 45 and he was only a car length or two in front of me. Luckily, nothing bad happened to either of us, but it was at that moment that I realized my horn was not working (had to use my finger :)). Oddly enough, I got the vehicle inspected just week ago and the horn was fine. It has even worked once or twice since this incident this weekend without any problems, but has since stopped working altogether. I have checked the fuse for the horn in the fuse box to make sure it wasn't blown or loose but everything was fine. What else should I look at to help narrow down this problem? Is there a relay related to the horn that I should look at? If so where at? I would like to try and solve this myself without paying someone $60/hr to do it for me. Any advice you guys have would be great. Thanks in advance!