berty987

The level A to level B update only changes the System , PCM and in some cases Phone software levels (only if phone is configured). The blanks suggest that the other items are not connected on the MOST ring or are in the wrong sequence. THe software level you posted corresponds to level A , but the simplest way to determine if your PCM needs a level A to B update is by looking at the software version on the top title banner when Main and Trip are pressed together. If the number is below 3 ie 1 or 2 then you need an update. If the PCM is a very early version , it may require an update to level A before being updated to level B. As your Amp is listed as 017500 it should already be at level A as 017500 is not compatable with the level below version A. As this is a retro fit you also need to consider the Navi drive , this part needs to be matched to the PCM , and should be updated directly after the PCM. This is done by using another update CD in the nav drive followed by using a later navigation Map. If the navi drive is not a matched part you need to understand what part it is and what level of software PCM its designed to work with. THe PCM for some reason does not appear to be configured for the Bose Amp hence the value is not enetered. This can be configured using the PWIS. If you plan on doing this update let me know , I've done it a few times including my own car.

Im not aware of there being any newer MAPPING DVD than 05.2007. The update kit still contains the 05.2007 map I believe.

Even after fitting the PSE yourself you will still need porsche to activate the control using the workshop PWIS unit. Depending on the age of your car there will be one of the wiring schemes that is suitable. The TSB for retro fitting the PSE is available for subscribing members of the site under the TSB downloads section. I would suggest if you are wiring this yourself to include an overide switch to allow the PSE to remain active at all speeds avoiding the 20 -40 mph cut out. This would involve placing a switch on the line back from the solenoid into the rear ECU/ DME. I retro fitted the PSE to my boxster , the control unit and solenoid wiring is identical to the 997 (the rear DME and solenoid is the same part number) , the only difference being the physical location of the DME and solenoid. If you have a very early 997 (2004 model) the DME will not have the 20-40 mph cut out , though you will not be able to confirm this until the unit is wired up. Once you have removed the plug terminal strip from the housing (they slide out sideways) you can see the plug is labelled with the chamber numbers. Make sure you buy repair pins from VW to populate the positions you want to connect to. If you use the wrong type of pin they don't locate properly and can be a devil to get out (see pic) Repair pins are a few cents each so not expensive and can be bought with wires or blank with either gold or standard contacts. Here is the plug and play kit I made up with overide switch One option to mount switch under handbrake Other option to mount in ashtray

Regardless of the powerkit the solenoid which is a grey item is on the right hand side of the engine and has a small black air line taken from between the manifold on the right hand bank of cylinders. I made up a simple "plug and play" kit that allows you to run a cable back inside the car to activate the PSE via its own switch. This is independent of the 20-40 mph cut out , so the PSE can remain active at all speeds. The simplest location for the switch is either in the ashtray or under the handbrake lever. The picture below is of a gen 2 997 but the solenoid looks the same. In the picture you posted I'd suspect the solenoid is obscured by the vertical protrusion of the air box on the right hand side

There is a featured article on planetporsche.net on removing the mirror cover to fit carbon arms. I think this is what you are looking for. http://www.planetporsche.net/reviews/showp...t=166&cat=3

I have the wiring diagrams and looked at doing this. The issue is the space inside the headlight and removing the wiring socket to be able to put the wiring into the correct locations.

When you enter the address enter the postcode as the town. There is no separate menu for post code search.

The multi function wheel is part of the car's CAN BUS system. Unless your new navigation system uses the same CAN bus protocol and commands as the existing unit , it will not work. I'd suggest looking at the audiotechnik-dietz web site as they make system integrators and interfaces for most cars. If the aftermarket unit has an add on of multi function controls perhaps you could replace the existing OEM with aftermarket items also. Personally I think its a long shot that your aftermarket nav will work with the OEM MFSW.

Sorry to hear youe woes , this sounds like an expensive mistake. I've said this before ..DO NOT USE TORRENT DOWNLOADS to update your navi ! If you disconnect the battery and wait at least 10 minutes you will reset the navi drive and PCM, however , if the PCM was part way through the update and either the software was incorrect/ corrupted or the power was removed from the unit , the reset will not help. You could be looking at a cost of at least 1000 USD for a second hand unit to replace your brick. There is no way to reflash the PCM software , even at the dealer as the PCM needs to power up to be able to connect to the PWIS workshop tool. If anyone wants advice on how to update the navi please send me an e mail , I can give you some guidance from first hand experience. If the car is 2005 MY then you also need to be aware of other issues involving the BOSE amplifier if fitted. Its quite possible with a MY 2005 car that the PCM needs to be updated in two stages, first to Level A and secondly to Level B. After updating to level B , then and only then , can the navigation update be applied. Unless you checked the level of software before starting the update , there is no way of knowing what procedure or discs should be used. If you use the discs in the wrong sequence or use the wrong software , permanent damage can result causing the PCM to be useless. The update discs for the cayenne and Boxster/911/Cayman are also different, so be careful what software you use and what its intended use is for.

I have a drive scheduled for this weekend. Personally the looks are growing on me. Like yourself I think buying new will be purely for those that can suffer the depreciation on a company balance sheet. Certainly these cars will make excellent used bargains in a few years and have much better credentials in terms of driver involvement than a cayenne ( also better on fuel). I believe a hybrid is also planned but no diesel. I opted for the turbo drive as well. I assume you get the car to yourself and do not have the accompanyment of a salesman ?

If you have lost the gas there is also a chance that the lubricating oil has also been lost. If you recharge with gas without the correct amount of oil in the system the seals on the compressor wear out quickly and you are into much bigger bills. Pay the money for it to be checked out properly, dried out using nitrogen and refilled with new gas and oil with a tracer dye. In future any leaks will be much quicker to diagnose with the use of the UV tracer.

I beleive its set under the OBC menu as well , just select limit and there should be an option to turn it on or off.

Latest map for the PCM 2.1 is May 2007 . There are some labelled august 2007 on the cardboard wallet sold as part of an update kit but the DVD inside is the same May 2007 edition.

Im not aware of many if any street signs being illuminated in Europe save those found at crossings or those on motorway gantries . The cut off for the beam ensures that oncoming drivers are not dazzled by the lights , so I'm surprised there would be any difference. The cut off on the beam pattern is determined by a flap that sits at the rear of the reflector housing in front of the bulb itself. On the european headlamp this has two positions to create either a flat or "kicked up" beam pattern at one edge. The flat beam pattern is used when a LHD car drives in a RHD country or vice versa. Certainly if you are now in the UK rather than USA if the beam pattern does not have the correct cut off you will fail the MOT (vehicle road acceptance test) and have to buy two headlights.

The 3.4 engine is variocam plus whereas the 3.2 is variocam , so using an earlier DME from a non variocam plus car doesnt sound like it will work with the 3.4. That said the 997 and 987 use the same rear DME.

The speaker connections on the bose amplified cars are from the amplifier and not the head unit. On the PCM units the Bose option head units do not contain an internal amplifier so there are no live speaker outputs on the rear of the head unit. I'm not sure if the same is true for the CDR units. If you are trying to retro fit an alternative head unit and retain the existing bose amp and speakers I suggest you read the tech articles over on planetporsche.net under the electronics section of the forum. There is a company in the US that has integrated an aftermarket head unit into an existing bose car , its somewhat complicated but can be done..

Though the Kand N filters are a lower resistance to a paper element (due to the filter media being more coarse) the gains are only apparent when the filter is new. The media area on a Kand N is less than the paper OEM , so the dirt particles build up a deeper layer quicker. Once the dirt builds up you have a filter media with similar or greater resistance than the paper original. My suspicion this results in a bigger pressure drop and actual loss of performance. This is why oiled filters need changing and cleaning more regularly than paper ones. For the price of a paper filter and the performance gains of an oiled one , its probably better to change the paper element more frequently. Unless the ECU is retuned to the oil filter air flows I cannot see there being any gain in HP , possibly a minute improvment in throttle response , other than that its just noise and a placebo effect. When the vehicle is in motion and at higher RPM's and speed there is a ram air effect , with an oiled filter there is a risk the air flow is too great for the ECU programmed ranges and so the mixture can run weak. Usually the ECU will retard the ignition to overcome potential engine damage from a weak mixture. The ECU usually has about 5-10 % tolerance in factory settings that can be accomodated in terms of air flow, any more and the MAF will be overange and throw a fault. I've had K and N elements on two other cars, both of which I took the filters out of because the gains were not worth it , the filter needed more maintenance , and the MAF cleaning occasionally. This technology was inspired in the days of carburettors when there were no MAF's , filters sat on top of the carburettor in metal boxes and the induction sound gains were more significant.

The cayman is also variocam plus, I think the 996 will be variocam only. A lot of cayman 3.4 owners fit the Gt3 throttle body from a 996 as part of the softronic ECU upgrade, this releases another 20-40 Hp when installed with a sports exhaust. Possibly worth considering at the same time as you will be creating a hybrid anyway.

Try looking on planetporsche.net. Plenty of articles on upgrades. If you don't have Bose , then adding a pioneer or Kenwood touch screen is relatively straight forward. A surround to finsih of the install is now available for just a few dollars.

I saw a tyre carcass sitting in the center of the autobahn in Austria, plenty of tread on the tyre...a few hundred feet in front a cayenne parked at the side of the road with one rear rim minus its tyre. Tyres can and do explode or become damaged beyond tyre glue fixes , unless you have a TPS system its easy to drive a few hundred miles with an under inflated tyre. Not all repair shops will work on rims with tyre glue repairs as the glue gets everywhere and is a pain to clean off their equipment. For long distance touring when you are away from the track and weight isnt an issue , I think carrying a spare wheel makes sound sense.

I think there is a TSB regarding the sirus retro fit.

It is a similar situation with the Cayman/ Boxster and 997 gen 1. A cheaper solution is to buy a 17" 996 space saver from a breakers yard. The overall rolling radius is slightly smaller than the original tyre but it will get you to a tyre shop for repairs. I picked up the wheel, foam insert , jack and tools for just over 200 USD. For the number of times you may be unlucky enough to use it , I think the 996 option makes better sense.

What benefits of the plus package are you after ? Is it the dashboard clock , the lap timer or the throttle remapping. The sport chrono plus is only found on cars already equipped with PCM 2.1 The benefits being some additional configuration settings in the PCM and the dash board timer. If its just a higher rpm before cut out and sharper throttle response you are after , you can get the same result from a softronics remap. Porsche will tell you it cannot be retro fitted because the wiring isnt present in your loom. There is nothing to stop the wiring being retro fitted but Porsche will not do it for you nor will they recode the ECU to make it active. If you are serious about doing this you will need to be very competent electrically or pay an independant service agent to do the work for you. If you already have sport chrono and simply want to add a PCM to get the "plus" this is easier to configure. No additional wiring is required for the engine DME just the lap timer.

Porsche make a tequipment rubber mat for LHD vehicles. They use the same fixing as the carpet mats and are more durable. Here they are fitted to my 987S.

I have a 987 Boxster s. For long distance touring i carry a 105/90/17 spare wheel / jack and wheel brace kit from a 986. The wheel diameter isn't an exact match for the 987 , but it will get you to a tyre repair facility. Even carrying the spare in the front I still have space for luggage. If the tyre has more than a slight puncture , the provided glue will not inflate sufficiently to get you mobile again. Also bear in mind that using the glue will write off the existing tyre , even if the puncture could be repaired. Some tyre fitters will not work on wheels that have been repaired with glue because the glue messes up their equipment and takes an age to clean up afterwards. The space saver wheel must be the 17" design to allow clearance over the boxster S caliper, which incidentally is the same as the 986. The removed wheel can either be carried inside the car , or in my case I made up a rubber mat to put on the top of the rear cover and carry some bungee chords to secure it in place. After fitting the bungee chords inside the rear boot , the lid can be closed and the wheel placed on top. Since you are limited to about 50 mph with the space saver anyway , the rear wheel doesn't need any more fixing than bungee chords to keep it in place. I would also suggest that keeping the rear spoiler raised would also give extra support in case of any mild slippage. This isn't intended as an onward travel solution, just enough to get you to a tyre repair facility or off the motorway. If you are carrying a passenger or luggage it also allows you to continue onwards with the minimum of inconvenience.