CJ_Boxster

Oh hissing cured, it was the heat shield attached to the engine cover...co-worker that was helping me reinstall the engine cover must have placed his fingers between the sheild and the cover itself causing to hang inside the engine bay rather than sandwich between the cover and the lip that it rests on....Some how everything he touches falls apart. LOL

Tis true, if someone made a glass window the same size as our plastic window it would shatter....I feel your pain, Im driving around with a hole in the center of my window like someone punched there foot through it, and then stabbed it on the sides 4 times with a shovel....It looks terrible!

Why are the "working" on Caymans? Strange. They should be uder warranty and at the dealership. my guess is probably oil changes. They were up in the air so they could have been draining the oil.

it should get the job done. just use a little spray here and there until your revs jump. ok then, ill do that tomorrow...Think i cant goto Formula Drift if im going to be on my back along time.

haha, I found a shop called Dutch Treat in lawndale, they work on nothing put porsche, i passed by and seen alot of new caymans and 911's there, they work on a $80hr labor rate and said to take my car in if i decide to give up finding the issue myself.

ok, well $85 is better than $135 at the stealership. Well i dont have a propane canister...how about throttle body spray?

Dumb it down a bit for me....where or what is bank 2? your MAF measures the mass of air flowing past it. Loren is saying that the mass of air flowing past your MAF is lower than it should be. two basic things can be happening. first, something (dirty air filter) could be severely hampering flow into the motor. second, your motor is sucking some of its air from somewhere other than the air filter (a leak somewhere past the MAF). the latter is more likely. given the hissing sound you describe, it's possible that you have a hose or gasket that's allowing air to slip past it, creating the hiss. bank 2, FYI, is the bank containing cylinders 4, 5 and 6. this is on the driver's side of the car. to find a leak, open your engine compartment. i use a propane torch (hand held, unlit of course). wave it around the engine compartment until the RPM's go up. if i had to guess, even though it's not on bank 2, i'd go with the oil separator bellows. see pic below. So if the rubber boot is the culprit, Would it be ok to just replace the boot and not the entire oil separator?

Ok, well isnt there a update for that part...like awhole new part i should buy?

Dumb it down a bit for me....where or what is bank 2?

ok heres the current data that my ODBII scanner gave me while my 1997 boxster was idling P0102 P0112 Intake Air Temp Sensor 1 Curcuit Low Feul system 1 ========Closed Loop Feul system 2 ========Closed Loop Calculater load value ========1.1 Engine coolant temp ========87 Short term feul trim bank 1 ========3.1 - -0.7% Long term fuel trim bank 1 ========1.5 - -0.7% Short term fuel trim bank 2 ========-2.3 - 0.7% Long term fuel trim bank 2 ========-1.5 - 0.7% Engine speed ========814 Ignition timing advance ========4.5% Intake air temperature ======== 45c Air flow rate g/s ========2.93 to 3.40 Command sec. Air status ========off O2s bank 1 sensor 1 ========present O2s bank 1 sensor 2 ========present O2s bank 1 sensor 3 ========absent O2s bank 1 sensor 4 ========absent O2 bank 2 sensor 1 ========present O2 bank 2 sensor 2 ========present O2 bank 2 sensor 3 ========absent O2 bank 2 sensor 4 ========absent O2s voltage bank 1 sensor1 ========0.165 - 0.0650 Short termfuel trim b1-s1 ========0.7 - -1.5% Os2 voltage bank1 sensor2 ========0.095 - 0.675 O2s voltage bank 2 sensor 1 ========0.120 - 0.735 Short term fuel trim b2-s1 ========0.7 - -2.3% O2s voltage bank2 sensor 2 ========0.700 - 0.645 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ok whats wrong with my boxster now...The P0102 I believe is from yesterday when I disconnected the MAF...Whats the P0112 mean? is that the root of all my troubles?

It definatly increases with RPMS, not vehicle speed. I've tested this twice. Update on the noise, I turned left kind of aggressively and some of the noise went away., also, i'd like to change what i said about the noise...its not so much a hissing, it sounds like apeice of metal chattering....

Hey guys, yesterday i was getting on the freeway and i turned right semi aggressively and accelerated at the apex of the turn to 5500 rpms and hear this Hissing noise that grew louder as i accelerated....Now i hear it everytime i accelerate to 5500 rpms or when i turn right and accelerate alittle into the turn, I also hear it then. The noise isnt a solid hissing noise like hiiiiiiiiiisssssssssssssssssssssssssssss..... Its more like hiss hiss hiss hiss hiss hiss hiss hiss hiss hiss, and as the rpms go up, the hissing gets more rapid. Sorry, I dont know how to explain it any better.

Trust me, spending money on a MAF, fuel pump, and filter cost me less what it would probably cost me to have porsche diagnose the car. The Maf was replace free of charge by dealer....filter was 30 bucks from Pelican...Pump was 85 from Salvage yard Georgia....thanks insite! Maybe you understand now.

OMG, that is easy!, thanks insite, ill tke a rubber malet to my suspension to isolate the noise and i hope it is the rear control arm instead of the Rear Strut...the more i drive the car, the more i think the struts are fine cause they arent spongy at all, they are pretty firm and i dont float around at all...Im pretty well planted to the ground at any speed. They might have been replaced at one point.

just post the numbers and we'll go from there. Ok ill do that, so ill get the car idling then record all the data its giving, then post it here... Maybe its time for me to take it to a mechanic. Anyone know a reputible non-dealer porsche mechanic in the Southern California/los angeles area that doesn't charge $270 to diagnose.?

odd; the MIL should have come on right away with the MAF disconnected. anyway, use the OBD II scanner to post your long term fuel trims, idle trims, O2 voltages and any codes it throws. strange that you say the 'stumble' doesn't occur in 1st gear. describe the 'stumble' again as best you can. Don't know what mil is...cel didn't come on till 40 minutes later, ok here's what happens....lets say I'm rolling at 30mph, and put the car in 4th gear which puts the rpms at 1500 rpms...when I accelerate at 1500 rpms, the car will stumble or misfire 2 or 3 time before reaching past 2000 rpms....the stumble feels like a momentary misfire. If use the odbII to veiw voltage and all that other stuff I won't be able to tell what's good or bad, except for trouble codes.

hmm. maybe not the MAF. do you have an OBDII scanner? Ok tried disconnecting the maf, it didn't change anything, I still get a stumble below 2k rpms in gears 2 through 5. Check engine light came on about 40 minutes of driving with maf disconnected...hope it tells me what else is wrong. Yeah I do have a odb II scanner at home, what should I look for while using the scanner?

almost guarantee it's your MAF. if you want to check, unplug your MAF and go for a drive. when the MAF signal isn't present, the car uses a default fuel map to run the car. if the problem goes away with the MAF unplugged, you have found your culprit. Ok, im going to go to lunch now but before i go, im going to disconnect the sensor and drive it to lunch...I called the mechanic that the dealer sent the car off to for the firs MAF replacment, they said they would replace it free of charge if its acting up again. FINGERS CROSSED!

I see, Hmmm, Is there a write-up on how to remove and replace then rear upper control arms?

Oh yeah, your right, i forgot that the issue is that the bumper is damage and in need of a replacement, Yeah i have seen the 996 bumper on pelican before and i do know its less expensive than a boxster bumper...simply forgot the issue at hand here.

Why does the picture of the fuel pump look like its cracked open? is that some sorta mod?

Insite! buddy, your here too huh! Ok ill try that tonite. Weird cause this MAF is only 2 months old. I dont have oil on my filter...maybe i should buy a HKS element and fabricate myself a better design of a filter...the sponge material seems more reliable than paper. OH OH i also have an update....While replacing the pump didnt cure the issue, It wont happen in 1st gear anymore...only in the higher gears 2nd through 5th...the car requires more load than 1st gear can offer before it will stumble.

I'm replacing it cause I ran nearly completely empty and stumbled once 3 seconds before I made it to the pump....now under load under 2000 rpms, the car will misfire 2-3 time before rpm's raise above 2k rpm's. Well I did replace the fuel filter but no difference and today I finished the fuel pump installation and while the idle is smoother, the issue is still present......what the hell else can it be? I did install bosh platinum 2's about a month & a half ago, could those be crapping out alread....or could my maf be crapping?

Can anyone help me, i got my replacement fuel pump but i cant find a write-up for replacing it....Please can someone point me in the write direction.

Heres a good question, why werent our clutch disc hubs ever made with some springs inside like most standard clutches...wouldnt that ease engaugement?