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CJ_Boxster

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Everything posted by CJ_Boxster

  1. I need some help, I bought adjustible rear control arms sometime ago and i want my alignment to be as close to stock spec as possible. Could someone measure in centimeters the distance between the CENTER of the nut and bolt illustrated in the picture attached below??? Thanks in advance!
  2. Well the past couple weeks i noticed that when i unlock my car, get into it, start it up, drive away... i notice the red light on my door-lock button is lit but i didnt lock the doors once i was in, and the lite will not turn off until i press "Lock" then "Unlock". I know my ignition switch is alittle tough to turn sometimes even without the steering lock engauged... is this screwy/quarky issue related to a failing ignition switch?
  3. its all relative to the individual, u should test drive it and see if its a better fit for you as far as power, looks, space and what makes u feel better when u pass by a car full of hotties lol. I call that the hotty test, usually i use that as a tie breaker in the event of a tie of pros and cons. ;-)
  4. I have Zimmermans with stock pads and no squeak, i made sure to use anti-squeak on all the contact points on the pad which come into contact with the caliper, Even the metal rod that holds them down and the metal pegs that hold them up from falling against the hat of the rotor.
  5. Yeah i was the guy who was banned for sticking up for myself when the forum bullies aka forum owners friends would taunt me lol. Well , what city are you in? If you in the LA area you can goto pcars.us and theres alot of meet information, Infact today is the outback steak house meet, had it afew months ago and we had 55 cars show up.
  6. Welcome, I had 3- 300zx TT's, Judging by your sig, your from TwinTurbo.net. Your probably remember me as JuniorTT. Well welcome to the forum, you'll find alot of great resources here.
  7. Can someone tell me what options i have, my sticker is alittle faded.
  8. Well looks like you hit it on the head, I placed a peice of tape over the hole and the whining is gone. Im not sure if this is typical but the acceleration felt a hell of alot smoother and ever so slightly stronger and idled alittle more smoother than it already was. Anyways THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!
  9. Thanks jefla, ill try placing a peice of tape over the hole to see if the noise goes away, the whine has gone for now, should be back in a matter of days.
  10. Thanks Topless! Nope i dont think its related to the 2nd gear grind issue since the engine whining happens in any gear and even in neutral if i press the throttle, i can tell easily the difference from normal sounding engine days to very loud engine noise days.
  11. Its there in the mornings at col startup and still there after its warmed up
  12. Well when my engine whine is anoying, it sounds about double the actual rpm's that im driving at in all of the RPM range.
  13. I know the whine you speak of and when i first bought the boxster it did that... well it still does but on occasion it is extra loud. So loud that when i was driving with my buddy in the car, he asked me why im driving at such high RPMs but i was only at 2800 rpms, so the noise to him tricked him into thinking im in the 4000 rpm's range.
  14. I have this annoying problem that happens occasionally. I will sometimes have alittle extra whining from the engine during acceleration or sustained speeds/rpms. Saying Im coasting at about 2800 rpm... and the engine whine will be kinda loud sometimes which makes the engine sound like im coasting at 4000 rpm's... And i hate it! Sometimes i dont have any extra engine whining and I can almost hear nothing from the engine while coasting at 3000 rpms... It comes and goes. FYI, i have 2 secondary air-injection CEL codes at the moment... maybe related? Idles nice and smooth even during loud engine whining moments. Sometimes burns gas pretty quickly during gentle driving and sometimes wont. 1997 Boxster, 115,000 miles Original Engine. Anyone else experience this?
  15. You can probably get away with replacing just the mph gauge itself.. Try looking for damaged clusters and use the mph gauge out of it.
  16. I would look at the MAF, when my MAF went out the first time, it gave me the same issues your speaking of. I didnt even get a CEL.
  17. Yeah, Just use a dry rag to soak up the armor all.
  18. The Key looking button locks the doors. Your going to need to search for directions on this site for placing the convertible top in "Service Mode" to gain access to the engine, once your there the MAF is on the drivers side of the engine, there are 2 tamper proof torqx screws holding it in... this will be a good time to go buy a tamper proof bit set from sears., remove the MAF, and Hose it down with MAS Airflow sensor cleaner that you can buy from any pepboys... its usually stocked near the throttle body and intake cleaner spray. Let it dry really well in the sun and while your waiting, pull the airfilter out and inspect it and check in the filter box for leafs and remove them.
  19. It shouldnt be slower, if anything is should feel equivalent if thats how the word is spelled. I think your experiencing the syntoms of a dirty MAF, try removing (tamper proof torx) and cleaning it with CRC MAS AirFlow Cleaner from pepboys. You should feel a difference in power as soon as you accelerate... question for you, Does it feel like the power/torque flatten out when the RPM's go past 4k rpm?
  20. Goto AutoZone and they will scan it for free, come back to us with the pcodes they give you and we will help you out.
  21. pull straight up really hard, they arent screwed in. The base shift knobs are slip on but fit very snug.
  22. Ah, By any chance, do you know which pins on the taillight connector is power for the brake light as well as ground?
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