CJ_Boxster

I have a question, if the top cost $3426 to replace/repair at the dealer... How much will the insurance give you? Will your insurance try to cheap skate and give you $400? What did you get from your insurance?

Try disconnecting the plug to the MAS and see if the start will start consistantly afterwards with the MAS disconnected. If so, you need a new MAS (mas airflow sensor.)

Hey people, someone apart of another 986 forum is in the new industry and did this for us during a news segment

http://www.myfoxhouston.com/myfox/pages/Co...ntentId=2728538

My 98 RoW 996 was working fine up until a few months ago. One morning, I started the car and it would start fine, but die right away as it could not hold idle. Re started it about 5 times and the same thing happened. I called the local mechanic and he told me to take it out for a spirited drive. I did and at the end of the drive, no problem. The same exact scenario happened about a month ago, but that time, I cleaned out the throttle body and MAF connectors with some carb cleaner. Tons of black soot around the butterfly. Once cleaned, it ran fine. This morning, yeap, once again, no idle. "Nice drive" and now the idle is a tad high (900-950), but at least its holding idle.

Any ideas what is causing this? It has a 3 month old fuel pump and filter. Is it the MAF going bad? Is it some sort of warm up regulator? ICV? :cursing: I don't want to replace everything only to find out I only needed to do something else. Your help is greatly appreciated!

Gus

Not sure is this applies to 996's but it does for boxsters... If it is your MAF going bad, you can tell by firs disconnecting your battery, then disconnect the electrical connector to the MAF then reconnect battery and see if the issue comes back. If not, then its the MAF. you wil get a CEL about 20-40 minutes later but the car should run better with the maf disconnected if it infact is malfuntioning

jim 

  i think that cup at the end could deflect rain water, but what little rain you would get the filter would grab

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hi,

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think we're in disagreement at all here. Given the cumulative effect of any rain entering the snorkel, eventually (such as driving in the rain for a couple hours) even a small amount of rain would eventually become a problem. I agree that the filter will stop any Rush of water which might suffocate the motor, but some water does enter and causes no problem (just like water injection does).

Happy Motoring!...Jim'99

I agree, and doesnt water break free carbon? I remember in older cars people would dribble small amounts of water droplets into the carburator and i would see carbon deposits fly from the exhaust against the wall behind the exhaust. You could even hear the ticking in the exhuast as larger portions of carbon would break free into the exhuast.

I didnt install the filter for any performance gains just to help the intake noise increase and I never heard anyone say "Hey that K&N filter wore out my engine" so i dont think SkipC's reason for not using a K&N is valid. I mean i use to drive my 67 mustang without an airfilter, daily driver too and no issues with debris or unfiltered air "wearing out" my engine... <_<

Sure enough, his K&N had a slight tear in it, about big enough for a quarter on-end to fit through.

See that doesnt apply here, cause the spike accured while the filter had a tear in it. Did the individual replace the filter with a new K&N then re-test?

Carlos, with all due respect, you're missing the point. The point is that yes, additional grit coming into your engine can have a direct and measurable effect on engine wear. The K&N filters have proven to filter less well than a factory paper filter. Seems a silly risk to take for no gain.

John your right i did miss your point there but im back on track now. About the K&N's being proven to filter less well than a factory filter.... thats just common sence, you cant suck more air through a layer of foam and paper than you can a k&n filter. There is risk associated with this mod and since I have a Automotive mechanic background experience with aftermarket air filtering methods, I feel that I probably will never experience total engine failure or even gradual hp lose. But like we say about mods.... To all his/her own! :thumbup:

Carlos,

Please, please, please don't run your Boxster without an air filter!! :P I know you long for those glory days with the old Mustang, but while your Boxster would continue running 10 years from now, it would also be measurably down on horsepower.... just as I'm sure your Mustang was.

Peer, It seems as though K&Ns and their competitiors have all been coming oiled in recent years, though there may be exceptions. With K&N it's very easy to tell... If the cotton gauze is pink/red, then it's oiled and ready to go.

Haha, i would never do that to my boxster. Weird thing about the mustang, the coolant temps would increase abit without an airfilter... Guess too lean for that a/f ratio.

I never liked the K&N hype. In my younger days I had had 3 cars with filters that used oil to trap contaminants, but they were not K&N. Even had one on my motorcycle. I was into the hype back then. At our local events I have put in K&N and BMC filters for the local owners - it is their car. I have owned by Boxster for 8 years and I am sticking to the paper air filter.

If your goal is to hear more induction noise then remove the layer of foam from the stock filter.

K&N - the world's best filter. Flows more air. Superior filtration properties.

Then what? No filter. A dirty filter. On what application. Hype.

If you need to flow more air then remove your filter. Years ago we had a local Boxster dyno day to test filters. It has been a long time but I remember one of the best hp gains was no filter.

I have a 1988 Toyota pickup that I have owned for 18 years. I figured out a way to meet the K&N claims. Stack 2 filters. :lol:

LOL your right, stacking 2 filters as you did will increase air flow cause there is more element area to pull air from. While its true, i wouldnt have thought of doing that. :clapping:

I didnt install the filter for any performance gains just to help the intake noise increase and I never heard anyone say "Hey that K&N filter wore out my engine" so i dont think SkipC's reason for not using a K&N is valid. I mean i use to drive my 67 mustang without an airfilter, daily driver too and no issues with debris or unfiltered air "wearing out" my engine... <_<

Sure enough, his K&N had a slight tear in it, about big enough for a quarter on-end to fit through.

See that doesnt apply here, cause the spike accured while the filter had a tear in it. Did the individual replace the filter with a new K&N then re-test?

CJ Boxster wrote:

> You can clean the oils out of the K&N filter to avoid that

> problem BUT you do run the risk of more dust flying past

> the filter, I've done it and havent had an issue with it...

> also desnorkeled and the car sounds awesome.

Correct me if I'm wrong -- I thought the K&N filter came un-oiled, but was included with a small tube of oil so you could oil it yourself if so desired.

At least so did the one I got for my Ducati:

http://ccrma.stanford.edu/~peer/Duc/duc-jetting.html

..and the same for my Eunos:

http://ccrma.stanford.edu/~peer/roadster-intake.html

Hence, if no one can/will talk me out of this, I'm about to install a K&N also in my Boxster.

-- peer

That tube that comes with the filter is not oil, its grease that you apply to the air filter track that the boxster uses, the KN filter is a tighter fit than the OEM filter and the tube of grease on the track helps it slide into the airbox.

I didnt install the filter for any performance gains just to help the intake noise increase and I never heard anyone say "Hey that K&N filter wore out my engine" so i dont think SkipC's reason for not using a K&N is valid. I mean i use to drive my 67 mustang without an airfilter, daily driver too and no issues with debris or unfiltered air "wearing out" my engine... <_<

Thank you Bruce. I just want to give something back to the forums since they have been good to me & giving me lots of help and information.

Awesome writeup, CJ. Were you able to feel the play in the old control arm before you took it off the car? I don't want to replace parts that don't need it so I'd like to diagnose the problem. I recently replaced one of the front upper control arms and it made a huge improvement (fix rattling and made the front feel tighter). The front one took less than a half hour and that included looking for tools I had misplaced.

Yes i felt about a fraction of a millimeter of play in the passenger side which was the noisiest side, the drivers side didnt really have any play but now the entire rear end feels tighter. Lastnite i was driving spiritedly about the off ramps in my area and the car feels alot more sure footed than before.

Hey forum members that are watching this thread, I made a "Do It Yourself" Write-up with pictures of the process, Its alot of steps but takes about 1 hr 30 minutes each side. The Write-up is just very detailed to prevent any snags along the way that any DIY'ers may encounter.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=12646

Ok yesterday i installed the passenger side Adjustible Rear Control Arm... which was the noiseiest control arm on the car, The Control arm went right in, I had to remove it to readjust the length cause i didnt measure it correctly at first but once i finished i noticed ALOT of things different about the drive of the car. Now, i dont here the chatter in the rear suspension while going over bumps, I dont hear the clack clack when i rapidly accelerate then release the accelerator. The rear-end feels alittle more solid and doesnt feel sloppy as it did before, Its probably all in my head but i do remember hearing a slight clack when accelerating from 0mph and also when reversing and rolling slightly forward while parking in the street... I dont get any of that anymore.

I inspected the old worn control arm and you all might be suprised but bearing had only about a fraction of a millimeter of play... Amazing how much noise can generate from a fraction of a millimeter of play. Saturday I will be installing the drivers side control arm and snaping more photos for a write up.

Here, I attached a picture of the fork end of the control arm, I measured it and its slightly over 1/8 inch thick, Im not 100% sure its steel but its heavy and impossible for me to flex or bend with my hands.

Well that was my concurn also before i received them, I was worried the fork end wouldnt be sturdy enough but not anymore after looking at it, The fork end is actually really really heavy and strong, I cant bend it or flex it at all with my bare hands. Its really thick but the pictures dont really show it.

Ok Fellas, Good news, I received the control arms from that vendor i mention in this thread, All i have to say is WOW, these look so good, the steel is heavy gauge, the welds are worthy of suspension parts and not to mention, they look cool in blue. Ill will be making a DIY write-up so that everyone can know how to adjust them to spec before installing them. I attached a picture of the control arms that i bought.

To get a set of NEW ADJUSTIBLE control arms is about $269.99 from this guy that posts on this other forum im apart of... http://986forum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=...p;postcount=162

Just click his name and send him a message... you may need to become a member of that forum to send him messages.

Hi Chris,

Thanks very much for your reply, Yes I actually tried that a few times. No luck. Even when MAF disconnected and DME reset through disconnecting the negative pole, the car still feels like it lacks 200 horses.

Actually now with an old cleaned MAF (and CEL) the cars is faster then it ever was. I was used to drive 911's but now my boxster is actually way faster than any 911 I ever drove (except the 930). Maybe my mixture is out of wack which is causing a better combustion? Any hazards? Fuel consumption and engine temp are fine..

Can any or you guys explain the difference between the old and new maf with the same partnumber? :renntech:

Regards,

Sebastian

Try a smoke test, its possible you have a vacum leak. smoke test is one of the best ways of locating leaks.

how does it run after you finally get it to run after a hard run? Get your compression checked

I Have H&R Sport springs with OEM shocks, the ride is hard and bouncy, I like to know some factual opinions in the following coilover shocks

H&R Coilovers , PSS9 Bilstein, or any other system

I want to change my current set up ASAP, my goal is to have a good daily drive more than a track car.

Any help will be fantastic.

Well your definatly going to want to change the springs to something alittle less stiff that wont ruin your lowered stance. But the Shocks, Bilsteins are good, they improve ride quality and are self adjusting.

Im glad you fixed it!

Hi, are these an easy diy, thanks

Suprizingly YES. If you buy the adjustible control arm, you just jack you car up, remove the tire and then unbolt the control arm itself and while its off you have to adjust the new one to the exact length of the old control arm.

There are only 2 bolts that hold the control arm in, and after removing them, the control arm slides out.

This happens to me also on 2 roads i take to work, the road seems ok but is actually uneven and will cause the steering wheel to pull left then right then left again. If you steering wheel always pulls about 30 degrees at every stop you come to, It could mean that you need your brakes & suspension looked at. Since Anti-clockwise means the car basically turns slight left, that could mean you have a worn out front suspension bushing or bearing OR the brakes on that side are gripping slightly more than the right side and you could just need to have the brakes replaced and brake discs also.