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clord

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Everything posted by clord

  1. clord
    Looks Great in red, Doc!!
  2. clord
    Personally, I would change one thing at a time and reevaluate. You will probably change the ride height with the PSS9 kit. That alone, will reduce body roll. One learns more about what does what in setting up a car when you can evaluate one change at a time.
  3. clord
    Hi V.... To your question about the factory settings for the GT3 Mk I anti-roll bar settings. The Factory manual lists the following street settings for your car: (the factory numbers the adjustment holes starting with 1 from the end (softest) hole in the bars. Front: Hole 3 of 5, or the center adjustment hole. Rear: Hole 2 of 4, or the 2nd from the end (2nd softest). The Porsche factory would have you run these settings on the street. On the track they would have you start with these settings and adjust as you learn about the handling and develop preferences. As to the drop link nut issues, I don't have a torque setting to recommend, I just put them "quite tight" by hand and check them before and after every track session. You might be comfortable with a light (Blue) loctite locking fluid. Enjoy!! :D
  4. clord
    Hi V.... Be careful with your new Mk I. If it were mine, I'd want to be PERSONALLY comfortable with the health of the suspension and state of the wheel alignment before pushing it. These cars are extremely sensitive to alignment, tire condition (esp. side to side..have they ever been patched?) and tire pressure. Decide on your alignment specs, put it on a reputable rack and get under it yourself with the tech. Especially check the anti-roll bar settings (stock, or has someone reset them?) and drop link nuts... check them for tightness. We have had some loosen. If one end comes loose, the handling can turn diabolical if not dangerous at speed. IMHO, you should learn GT3 car control on a relatively slow/tight track before testing top speed in public and at night. :cheers:
  5. clord
    Hi Rami and Welcome!! You have a fantastic deal on a Mk I with that low mileage. Of course, we did not get the Mk I in the US market, so our personal experience is with the Mk II. There is not much that goes wrong with either the Mk I or, so far, with the Mk II. The UK has much experience with the Mk I and there is an active (if primitive) GT3 mail list at titanic.co.uk The drive train and suspension of all the GT3s are, of course, industrial strength and derived from race hardware. The few weaknesses may show up if you take your car to the track regularly. Depending on your driving style, the Mk I can overheat it's brakes. Many in the UK have upgraded their Mk I front brakes to those from the Mk II and increased cooling air flow. As for the extended warranty, you probably will not need it if you don't track your car.... BUT, if you do need to have work done on the engine or trans, it WILL cost you more than that $2000. If you can afford it, go for it. YMMV
  6. clord
    FYI... As Loren says above, the gearbox in the 2004 GT3 is a totally different box. It is evolved from the box in the 911 GT2 which in turn evolved from the 993 GT3 TT race box. The current GT3 box is also used in the 911 GT3 Cup and GT3 RS/RSR race cars. It has a dedicated oil pump and external oil/water intercooler, steel baulk rings on gears 3-5, and interchangeable gear ratios(layshaft assembled from individual ratios that are positioned, not pressed into place), and of course a 40%/60% asymmetrical clutch type limited slip differential.
  7. clord
    Hmmmm.... Maybe I'll put the wire cutters aside for a while. Let us know what you find out, Mike. :huh:
  8. clord
    On two USA 996's, I've gotten switched battery from the prewired cell phone preparation plug near the floor in the center console. If I remember correctly, there is an unused 4 wire female plug available when you remove either side of the center console. Again, if I remember correctly, the switched battery is the green wire with the brown stripe. Confirm it with a meter.
  9. clord
    Great Job, Mike!! :clapping: An easy hack and reversible if necessary. Can't beat that! Thanks!!
  10. clord
    When I had a '99 C4, I had the same complaint. I took out the turn signal cycling relay (It's on the relay panel driver's left side foot well...turn on the turn signal, crawl into the footwell and hear/feel which one it is), carefully removed the plastic cap/cover and proceeded to swiss cheese it with about a 1/4" drill in the hopes of letting out more sound. It helped a little bit.
  11. clord
    Eagerly awaiting the results of your experiment, Mike. :D
  12. clord
    Great Job, Mike!!! I started this trread a year and a half ago and am still looking for a circumvention to the E-gas cutout issue. Keep us posted!! :cheers:
  13. clord
    Congrats, Ivan! That's a beautiful car. The break-in advice above is what I did and I had the same feelings as you about holding it back..... deferred gratification! Enjoy!!
  14. clord
    Hey Loren... Thanks for the DME codes section. Great Stuff!!! :cheers:
  15. clord
    Welcome and Congratulations! I owned a '99 C4 Coupe for four years and 48K miles. Great Car. I did have the RMS problem (3 times) and a creaky strut top bearing (there's an update for that)....all was fixed under warranty. They are a great drive and you can do all normal maintenance yourself. Just use us on this site. I added Euro M030, Aero Kit and Kinesis wheels. See my garage.
  16. clord
    If, by "clips", you mean the rivet type fasteners, here is what I've done. I pull the rivet head straight out of the fastener by pulling on two opposite sides simultaneously. If you just lever on one edge the thing bends over and doesn't come out. I now use an old Snap-On spark plug boot puller that closes hooks over two sides of the rivet and has hooked handles for pulling. I've also tried using diagonal cutters CAREFULLY ramping/loosening the rivet out from two sides before they close on the rivet shaft and cut it off! Always have a handful of spare rivets around anyway. I have some on the bench and some in the car.
  17. clord
    Anders.... Yes, Carnewal (Gert) is a great source of parts for the projects you describe. Since the US did not get the Mk I GT3, we have less, hands on, experience with it vs the Mk II. You should subscribe to the UK GT3 list at gt3@titanic.co.uk. Gary and his gang at Titanic are very well versed in tuning the Mk I GT3. The MK II GT3 gearbox is based on the '01 GT2 gearbox and very much up to the task. The factory updated the Mk II box with steel syncro rings in gears 3-5 for longer life. I'm not sure about the Mk I box. Check with Gert to see if the Mk II brake ducts will fit the Mk I. Gert is a member of this board... he may see this.
  18. clord
    Hi Anders... the answer depends a lot on what you intend to do with the Mk I GT3. If you intend to take it to the track, you may find that the front brakes can be overtaxed, depending on how hard you drive. Many in the UK have upgraded the front brakes to the calipers and rotors of the Mk II and attempted to increase cooling. As for the Mk II, the suspension is a compromise, but biased toward track performance with a street alignment. For dedicated track work you might consider even more track oriented springs, dampers, and alignment. Our friends in the UK get good advice from PARR Garage and in Germany from JZ Machtech. For general street/road use, it's great as it was delivered.
  19. clord
    My local dealer's parts desk says the list price is about $28. I'll get it for something less than that.
  20. clord
    I believe that there is transceiver in/near the ignition switch that "talks" to the coded chip in each key head. The drive block has to be programmed by the PST2 to recognize each separate key head. Could changing the ignition switch have messed with the transceiver?
  21. clord
    I ran into the same thing when I did the polyrib belt on my (now departed) '99 C4. The manual says 27mm and it required a 24mm..... and I ended up using a 15/16ths socket on a breaker bar.
  22. clord
    Did you have the Air Conditioning on? The AC will ask for the rad fans to come on if the pressure is high on the condenser side. If so, try it with the AC off and see if it still does it.
  23. clord
    I corner weighted my GT3 this week. First I measured the ride height. The front is toward the high end of the 5mm tolerance of the spec and the rear is toward the low end....but all within spec. On the scales without me in the car the diagonal totals were within 9 pounds of each other (!!) and with me in the driver's seat they were still within 13 pounds. Nothing to fix here! This is an amazingly good setup straight from the factory. :clapping: Now on to the alignment tomorrow.
  24. clord
    Tom.... Do you have after market headers or the stock exhaust manifold?
  25. clord

    GT3 CUP Air Filter

    clord replied to CAP's topic in 996 GT3

    It would not be a plug and play operation. The positions of the airbox hole mating with the intake from the engine cover is at the opposite side of the engine bay, and the connection to the MAF/Throttle body is in a different location. Look at the pic above on the GT3. The turbo has a slightly different part number from the GT3, but the locations of the intake and Throttle body connections are the same.
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