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timf

Contributing Members
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About timf

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    San Diego
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    Porsche '03 911TT
    Mini '05 MCS
  • Former cars
    1969 Lotus Elan SE DHC

timf's Achievements

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  1. Your PCA membership would more than pay for itself with your 1st tire purchase ! There's a particular "Discount Tire Store" on Genesee Ave which is very popular with the local Porsche owners and Jerry the manager will accommodate you if he knows you're a club member. Congratulations on your new purchase and don't be intimidated by the complexity of the engine bay etc - most routine maintenance is easily performed at home with just basic tools, plus there's a number of excellent DIY guides on this site and some very knowledgeable members. Have fun. Tim I am not a member of the Porsche club and am unaware of the 10% discount at a certain discount tire shop. I'd be interested in the Porsche club. I just got my (new to me) 2004 996 Turbo Cab last year. Still learning much about Porsches.
  2. I agree with the others - plus it maybe time to find a new tire shop as the tech clearly doesn't understand Porsche :-) BTW I'm in San Diego as well - if you're a member of the Porsche club you can get a 10% discount at a certain discount tire shop, maybe you're aware of this already ?
  3. About 6 months ago I thought I had this problem (leaking clutch slave causing front reservoir to overflow). Had all the symptoms like low level in the rear PAS reservoir and was all ready to replace the slave. But just for kicks I removed the excess from the front reservoir and filled up the rear to where it should have been and made a mental note of how much was in the front and rear reservoirs. Now 6 months later and a couple of thousand miles - guess what ? The levels have not migrated at all. So I figure I have a very slow leak in the slave and it can wait a while longer :-)
  4. Hi Boxxy, That's interesting that you had the same experience as me. Makes me wonder what's actually going on with these turbo drain plugs. Out of interest - did you re-assemble with crush washers and torque down as they should be per specs ? Tim I just did my first oil change and I found the same results as timf. VERY tight plugs. Looked to be never having been take out before. No crush washer either. I did it because I wanted to see if there was any unusual wear (e.g. metal bits) in the oil from the turbo reservoirs (the oil was fine, no metal bits). In my opinion, there as a fair bit of oil in there. So I'm glad I did it. Other than the original over-torquing by either the factory or whoever did it last, it was easy to do, so I will also do it next time.
  5. Alex, I have a spare set of the original Bosch DV's from my 2003 TT. They had only done about 6000 miles when I switched them out for EVOM units - I was having a bunch of upgrades done at the time and it seemed like a good idea. They were working fine when I removed them. PM me if you're interested in them. But like others have said - if you're going to change them - it's a good idea to upgrade to billet style unit :-) Tim so is ok if i am buying them and it doesn't matter too much if they are second hand ?! thank you for the prompt answer ! :)
  6. I recently changed my oil and decided to drain the turbo's, in the process I discovered a few things. 1. The dealer had clearly never drained the turbo's when they performed oil changes - I say this because the plugs were practically seized in place and it took tremendous torque to 'unstick' them (similar to jpflip experience ?). Of course the dealer could have removed them but just over torqued them during the re-install or perhaps that's the way they come from the factory ? 2. In my case the turbo drain plugs had no washers in place at all !! - and yes I checked very carefully that they weren't stuck to the plug or in the tank recess. I re-assembled everything per the correct torque settings sans washers and all seems well, no leaks. But I suspect I may re-visit this and install washers as shown above. 3. The amount of oil which came out was miniscule - so not sure if it was actually worth the effort / risk.
  7. Hi Loren, thanks for the info - I didn't realize what the significance of 'Contributing Member' actually implied :-) Tim Contributing Members here can view any and all TSBs.
  8. Does anyone have a link to TSB 6028 ? I have been tolerating a metallic rattle from the rear of the headliner on my TT for time now and figure I should have a go at fixing properly :-) I did have some foam in the gap above the metal cross bar which helped - but didn't totally fix it.
  9. Just replaced the alternator with a brand new unit from a company on eBay and all is well again :-)
  10. Thanks for the link - seems to be quite a bit of info on the web about this. As an EE I was originally trained in military aircraft Avionics, then moved onto telecomms, then Formula 1 / CART engine management for Cosworth then back to Telecomms (mobile phones) for Qualcomm and Motorola - so I've had a pretty interesting career :-) http://www.linkedin.com/profile?viewProfile=&key=10616491&trk=tab_pro
  11. I agree / hope :-) it seems to start to charge then after about 5-10 seconds voltage drops from 13.8V down to less than 12V - revving the engine has no effect. Doesn't look to hard to get to the alternator, plus by trade I'm an electronics engineer so fairly confident I could perform the electrical repair (rectifier bridge would be my first guess). Time for a bit more googling me thinks ! EDIT - seems it could be the alternator clutch pulley which has failed, hmmmm Tim
  12. I suspect my alternator might be on the way out on my 2003 996 TT. Engine cranked fine and fast but on the drive home I noticed the battery voltage on the dash was less than 12V, so when I got home I double checked with my digital voltmeter and yep it was low. I turned on the headlights to see what would happen but they struggled to ignite and the battery voltage stayed <12V. Revving the engine had no effect on battery terminal voltage. No warning lights on the dashboard. I replaced the battery a few months back as the OEM gave out. Questions: Are there any codes I could pull to determine the alternator charging current or lack thereof ? How difficult is an alternator DIY ? Edit - just found a DIY on 6speed - looks pretty straight forward. Looks like I might be getting my hands dirty again after just replacing the spark plugs and coils :-) One last observation - I did notice that after a restart for a few seconds the battery voltage went up to just under 14V then settled back down to under 12V. Not sure if this tells me the alternator started to charge then gave out. Might have the battery tested at where I bought it from just in case it's failed - unlikely. Thanks again guys, Tim
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