keoni

What is the proper steps to cleaning MAF? Do I need to disconnect the electrical power first? If so, how do I find out the code for my audio? I have a Kenwood audio but I don't even know the model#. Should I use rubbing alcohol or other cleaner? Anyother things I need to be aware of when I clean the MAF? Thanks.

There is a ton of information here regarding cleaning the MAF. Do a search on "cleaning the MAF"

I always disconnect the battery when I work on the car. As for the code, sorry to say but a search on the word will give you lots of information, from where to find it, (I think it's inside the hood) to finding the serial number of the radio. (But in your case that might not suffice since yours isn't a Porsche radio)

Anyway do a search, I have found lots of information by searching the archives, it's real easy to do and you will see many comments from people who have short cuts to offer.

Sorry I couldn't be of any great help.

Keoni

Started with P1128 code every 1000 miles serveral times, then both P1128 and P1130 600 miles later, now 100 miles after reset. Anyone know the proper way to clean the MAF; I'd like to try this before replacing.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I used rubbing alcohol in a plastic cup. Swished it around a few times and let it air dry. Cleaning did not clear the exact same codes you have. Talked to a few listers here and on PCA tech and they said it's the air-oil separter. Check the archives for pictures and some details on replacement.

Keoni986

I don't think the hose in that TSB is the same one that keoni is referring to.  There is an accordian-style hose that is connected to the bottom of the oil separator.  It is only a couple of inches long at most.  It has been known to crack and cause problems.

When you buy an oil separator, it comes with a new hose.  I don't think the dealer sells the hose separately.  I bought the oil separator for about $125 (can't remember the exact number).

I don't have a picture handy, but the oil separator is located slightly to the passenger side of the center of the car, mounted vertically.  It is accessible from the top and from the bottom.  The hose in question is on the bottom, sticking out to the side.

The oil separator has been redesigned 3 times (so there are four different versions out there).  I would make sure to get the latest one.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Point well taken, Thanks for the information!

Keoni

Just started noticing the clutch engages about 5/8 out. This came about when I let two others drive our '99, with 52k miles. After they mentioned this, it seems to me that it does engage further out.

Is there an adjustment I could make to restore near normal engagement? :help:

Thanks!

Keoni986

On the 986 the mileage number is stored in the cluster.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks, that settles that. I mis-read the above post about the GT3 cluster. I thought he was replacing the 986 with a GT3 one. He was only asking about the rev counter. Again thanks and sorry for any confusion.

Keoni986

Naked cluster.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

What happens to the mileage when you swap out a cluster? Does it know to use the present mileage? Up a few messages someone mentioned that they are replacing their cluster with a GT3 cluster. Just wondering how it affects the replacement.

Keoni

I don't know where the oil seperator bellows hose is but, I just cleared the same P1128 code on my 2000.

It was the oil fill tube. The section between the bulkhead of the engine compartment and trunk to the hard tube mounted on top of the engine. There is a TSB on this and it appears to be a common problem. I discovered this (I read about it on this site) after  changing the plugs and cleaning the throttle body (I cleaned the throttle body thinking the problem might have been the IAC as it turns out the Egas cars donot have an IAC) didn't clear the CEL. 

The give away that there might be a hole in the tube is a build up of oil on top of the engine below the tube.

A $28 part from the dealer. It took me about an hour to replace.

Good Luck

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks but do you have the TSB number? I couldn't find it listed here. I see the part you mentioned but want to be sure of the TSB. Regards!

Keoni

Well I had asked elsewhere on my CEL P1128 code and my problem might be: oil separator bellows hose. This hose has been a problem in the 996 as well. The hose will deteriorate from the heat and oil and allow air to enter the intake system.

Do any of our experts here know where this hose is located? Can anyone supply a picture for this non-tech person? I got lots of duct tape! Okay, I'll replace it but would need our experts help. Anyone know where it is? P1128 is cyl 1-3 if that helps.

THANKS!

Keoni

No headlight washer?

If so, then the part number is: 996 631 035 00

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Loren, nope, no headlight washer.

Thanks

Keoni986

Hello, I have a 1999, 986, with halogen lighting. I broke off :cursing: the amber driver side triangle reflector while changing over to SilverStar lighting. I would appreciate if someone can provide the correct part number. Thanks

Keoni986

Tool Pants, no wonder my CEL is still on! At least I saved the old sensor. Can't wait to do it right! Thanks Tool Pants.... I mean Loren. :clapping:

Anyway I do appreciate what you guys have done for us peons. :drive:

Keoni

Loren: (Cylinders 4 - 6) That would be on the driver's side in a Boxster.

Tool Pants: Bank 2 is cylinders 1-3 which on the drivers side on a Boxster. Sensor 1 is the one before the cat.

Okay, okay. Now who's right, Loren or Tool Pants? I already changed a O2 sensor based on Tool Pants and I still have the CEL light. So is Loren right?

Tell me guys, why is there a BIG difference from everyone concerning the firing order?

Keoni

Loren, Thanks for the advise. Here is more info for the story

And the Plot thickens. Today right after startup driving up hill I hear to loud thuds behind me and the CEL starts flashing sad.gif. So I turn around and coast into my driveway. Hook up the code scanner and find codes P0300 P0301 P0302 P0303. Telling me that there is a misfire in the cylinders 1-3. so to see if this keeps up I cleared the codes and restarted the car with no noticable misfires everything seems fine now. Any ideas what on earth could cause this? Thanks in advance.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Rolla, sorry to say again but that is EXACTLLY what happened to me also!!!!! It happened after clearing the code and darn near scared the living poop out of me! Then after a few minutes the computer kicked in and straighten things out. But I still have the P1128 code.

Keoni986

Well after a replacement MAF was installed 50 miles went by and the CEL came on again. This time the code that was there was P1128 I have read that this might be a bad oil filler seal. I checked the seal and it seemed fine. What all should I check? Thanks in advance.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Rolla, I'm in the exact same boat! Same year and same code. Except, from what I have seen, the P1128 is: Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 2 (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Rich Threshold. Where did you see that it is a bad oil filler seal?

Keoni986

well today I cleaned the MAF and disconnected the battery the light went out but then after about 10 miles of driving the light came back on so my guess is that the MAF is bad.  :(

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Rolla, I have the same problem, CEL comes on. My code is P1128. I thought it was the O2 sensor and bought a new one only to discover it's a vacuum leak. (Which I can't find.) Boy the '99s are real killers on the CEL, huh?

Keoni

Guys, it's not getting any better. I still have the CEL after looking over the vacuum lines. One real scary thing is when I reconnect the battery, the engine does all kinds of mumbo-jumbo, for lack of a better term! Backfires, doesn't rev up and generally runs really bad. Then all of a sudden, bingo, it's normal. This must be the computer kicking in?

Anyway, could anyone point me in the right direction as to where I can get a drawing of the vac lines on the engine. :notworthy: I'll look at each and every line. This CEL is driving me crazy! And I want to put it to bed for the winter but don't want to have the problem come spring.

Keoni

If the recall was done your cap should have in white lettering in German and English "turn to click" with an arrow.  Strange you do not have the cap but have the recall sticker.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yes I have all of the above except the tether and am thinking the previous owner might have switched it when they sold it.

THANKS

Keoni

Well I have the A209 sticker on the inside back deck BUT I do NOT have the gas cap as pictured. I called Porsche NA and they said the dealer did the work. Also I did a quick inspection of the hoses and didn't find any that looked loose or cracked. I'm hoping it's the gas cap. I know a dealer sales manager in another city. I'll ask him what my next step could be. Hint Hint-get another gas cap fer free??

Thanks all!

Keoni

Scott, here is another twist! I read on PPBB that the replacement gas cap has a teather. I had previously called Porsche NA and they told me the cap WAS replaced. I have no teather on the cap. I remember my problems started just after I got gas. I'm calling them again tomorrow to get the facts straight. Do you or anyone else know if the replacement cap is teathered???

THANKS for all you help so far!

Keoni :drive:

Scott, it's idling just under 800 and steady. No noticeable loss of power in any gears. Exhaust smells very clean, no burnt smell. Come to think of it the smell is very clean as opposed to exhaust I smell from our other cars. Those smell like exhaust! CEL light is on after about 125 miles after installing the new O2 sensor. Slight vapor on start up, I say vapor becasue if it was smoke it would linger, it dosen't. No mods of anykind on engine. No EVO, no K&N, nada.

Keoni (need :help: )

Scott the CEL is back on! **** :censored: All that work for what? Anyway I called a Porsche dealer service and they said the code: P1128 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 2 (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Rich Threshold is a vacuum leak!!!!!!!!!!! How the heck does that figure? I just spent $154 fer nothing.

Keoni

Yes I saw that and possibly the O2 sensors would be related to the emissions of the warranty. Could it be that you have to be the first owner? Anyway I changed my first O2 sensor today. Couldn't have been easier! Piece a cake! Disconnecting the old one was easy and removing it was just as easy.

Scott. I used a special tool from Snap-on to remove the O2 sensor. I borrowed it from a very special Porsche Independent shop. What a nice guy! He's in Stroudsburg, PA

Keoni :cheers:

Took the driver side rear wheel off to clean for our Octoberfest and the O2 sensors are an easy reach. Heard on PPBB that a dealer cleaned someones O2 sensor. I might try that. Course can you imagine what the business end looks like after 50K of hot exhaust blasting it? I think it's worth a shot.

Keoni986

Scott, took a look at the underneath and saw the sensors. Removing the wheel and getting at the one sensor before the 'cat' looks easy. Ditto for the one on the 'cat'. But I still have this question unanswered, which side are 1-3 cylinders on? Driver or Passenger?

And one more thing, I know from the guys at work they heat bearings to expand the diameter so when cooled they fit better. Does the same prinicple apply when removing exhaust items? For example, should the engine be at operating temp when I try to remove the sensor. Makes sense? I need help :lightbulb: please!

regards

Keoni986

Thanks Scott, got the picture. One more thing for you or others here. The code is P1128 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 2 (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Rich Threshold. Can someone, anyone, tell me where that sensor is? Please?

Regards

keoni986