Westcoaster

I suppose it could be done, as long as you can find a HID that has the same style of bulb, but... I your car is like mine the voltage being sent to the fog light is not a constant 12v, it is modified by the OBC, and if this is the case you would have to run new power for the ballasts as well. Check my post in the 987 section of the forum for the efforts that I went through to install a HID kit into the stock halogen headlights... http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...20&start=20

Murphy told me if you don't insulate them from each other they will short out!

Both my 2003 and now my 2006 both 2.7l run at same temperature, 80C (176 F) never seems to fluctuate.

Well, they are in and working, I completed the installation of the CQ Light 5000k HID kit a couple of weeks ago and wanted to dive them a few times before posting my observations. Wow! Are these bright, I thought that the stock halogens were good but these cook! Since these installs have been profiled before I will only touch on the main points. 1) I found a place to get and ignition key controlled 12v feed, the fuse panel of course! The fuse panel is laid out in 4 rows in my car, and row C-9,5 and row D-4,8 provides 12v 'ignition-on'. 2) From this point I connected through a fuse to a master off switch (I wanted to be able to run the car with the headlights off) then through the firewall to a 30A relay mounted in the area ahead of the front cowl (where the battery sits). 3) main power for the ballasts come from a 20A fused direct lead from the battery positive terminal, this connects to the relay. 4) The relay controlled 12v splits to to lines, one for the left ballast and one for the right. These lines run to each headlight assembly and enter through the breather tube found on the headlight assembly. I measured the current draw on these ballasts: 3.4 amps. 5) Ground for the ballasts are the regular ground wire used in the stock halogen connector, for the relay directly back to battery. Pictures: p1) The CQ Light kit p2) The ballast p3) Bulb comparison, note the halogen filament and HID arc chamber positions match, ideal for proper alignment to the reflector p4) Installed into the back of the headlight assembly rear cover p5) HID 33.1w pattern and brightness from the same distance and position, I measured the height and cutoff, exactly the same as stock! p6) Stock 55w halogen pattern and brightness

The connections for the HID should be alright then. Maybe the previous install is to blame, are you sure the antenna is properly connected? Even on a 1999 there will likely be an adapter riquired for the antenna when installing a radio with a north american style antenna connector.

Not that we have the same car, but I noticed no interferrance with the radio after my recent install. Where did you connect the power and ground for each of the ballasts?

Thanks Jim, I figured they would be OK, but thought I would ask. Still haven't figured out what to do about the OBC error message...yet! Did you have to re-align your lights after installing the HID kit?

I couldn't find any on a 987, ended up bringing one from the fuse box through to the front.

The trim at the lower (both sides) of the center console are located with push in clips and can be prised off easily (no screws) To remove the gear shifter trim see here http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...mp;hl=gearstick Thanks for the reply, I see that the pictures are from a 986, and I thought that it would be the same for a 987, BUT when I tried to pull up just like is shown in the pictures I gave up just before I thought I had reached the breaking pressure to snap off something! I also tried pulling on the trim that runs along each side of the center console at the front and met with the same results, it wouldn't let go?! I figure there is a method to all of this and when done coreectly they may just 'pop-off', but I don't really want to head down to the dealer to buy someting that I broke by pulling in the wrong place... This is when an exploded drawing would be invaluable!

Assuming that you are running the tires sizes that came on your car... Alway! check when the tires are cold, and put in exactly what the tire placard on the door jamb recommends.

Has anybody seen the instructions to do this on a 987? I want to get at the small compartment in the center console so I can mount a switch but I can't figure how to get the trim off around the shifter and the pieces that wrap around the lower portion of the center console at the bottom? Thanks!

Yosi, have you tried to take to another Porsche dealer in Toronto (or is there only one)?

When I took my 2003 in to ask them about the squeak that you described (@ 44k km's) I was told it was symptom of clutch wear. Basically the release bearing would be now traveling on a previously unused portion of the transmissions input shaft, since the car was still under warrantly they said that they could replace the release bearing if it bothered me enough. I traded the car in a few months later so I can not confirm their diagnosis.

In the case where a aftermarket kit for HID lights replaces the regular halogen bulbs and results in a 'dipped lamp warning' for each bulb... Can the dealer disable this message and instruct the OBC not to check for this condition?

I'll try this again, I was pushing on the outer trim ring not the rotary knob and I was turning it to the left...

I tried to remove the switch, didn't work for me, maybe it's different for the 987?

I too have the H7 kit from CQ Light, it works well and I am happy with the quality of the parts too. As Jim and few other have recommended the colour temperature of the light is critical to how they look, my car has the reflector style headlight housing so they look the part as well. The general recommendattion is to stay between 4500-5000K light temperature, mine are 5000k and I am very glad that I did not go with the 6500k bulbs like I first thought, mine are noticably blue in colour and I think the 6500K bulbs would have been too blue for my liking. Jim, 2 years now huh, are yours on all the time due to DRL? BTW I just got the kit finally installed yesterday, man are they bright, the cutoff is factory perfect and in concert with the projector style lens look OEM. Now I am trying to figure out to disable the error messages returned by the OBC each time the car starts...

Hi Eric, yep I knew that, and I know this will sound a little weird (as a Porsche owner), but I was looking for a 'less expensive' solution. Al

Thanks PTEC, I'll give it a try!

Well I finally got this one to work. Rather then a full blow-by-blow description with pictures I'll give the Readers Digest version. I wanted to add a way to play back music/audio from external devices such as a MP3 player or laptop. Since the CDR24 does not have an auxilary input and the wireless FM modulators gave poor results I went looking for a antenna connected FM modulator. First you will need to adapt the connections found on either of the 2 modulators tested from the North American style connector to the ones found in the Porsche CDR24 (possibly other European cars as well). For this Scosche makes adapters, VWA3B and the VWA3RB. These are seen at this website: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-1yVpZoItsWc/c...p;s=0&cc=01 I tried a FM modulator made by Pyle PLMD2 and although it worked the amplitude of the FM signal was so weak or the tuner in the CDR24 was not sensitive enough because the resulting volume was too low for my liking. I would have to listen to the music at a setting of 20 rather then 10, leaving no headroom for top down driving. Next up I tried the Scosche FMOD01, it too has a choice of 2 selectable frequencies but it also has the addition of a output level control. With this I could more closely match the normal FM signal level and that of the modulator, my eventual setting was 3/4 of max. This unit has the other benefit of being only about 1/2 half the size of the Pyle modulator and because there is not much room under the dash of a Boxster this is a good thing. So the Scosche modulator is in now, tucked behind the radio in the center console, a switch to turn the unit on and off still needs to find a permanent home and if I can figure how to remove the lower storage cup under the HVAC controls that will be it's place. A set of leads to connect an external device to the modulator sit in that same storage area, snaked up along side the console trim and into the compartment. Power was run from the fuse panel to the unit and hidden by the carpet behind the brake and clutch pedals. Results: Actually it sounds pretty good, the level of the signal and the resulting volume make this an inexpensive way to add a secondary audio signal into the CDR24, something I think the factory should have made standard on a car at this level.

I am trying to figure out how to remove the shifter trim on my 987 I want to remove the small compartment under the HVAC controls but it doesn't want to budge! It looks like it is part of the trim that continues under the shifter boot. thanks

I don't know what the VW's use, but these are the correct ones for the CDR24 in my 2006... I am working on the installation of the Scosche FMOD01 modulator for adding a auxilary input to the radio. Stay tuned, ha ha ha (that even made me laugh!)

Is is easy to remove this switch on a 987? I would like to meter the connections to see which one is on when I turn on the headlights. thanks

Did you ever find a source for 12v switched in the 987? need it as well... Thanks!

I have a FM modulator that goes in between the radio and the antenna, so I need to adapt the North American style leads to those on the Porsche radio. I have found that Crutchfield sells a 'european' style unit: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-1yVpZoItsWc/c...p;s=0&cc=01 Are these the same as used in VW's? Thanks!