Keith U

The dash lamp for the top comes on during power on (bulb check) then goes out. And stays out. Always. No matter the state of the top. Latched, unlatched, service position, down and stowed. No light. That doesn't seem normal. I took the controller out and magnifying glassed it for obvious solder issues but came up with nothing. Not really a surprise, visual check isn't worth much.

Thanks, Loren—I had not noticed there are three microswitches in the latch, I'll look at that 3rd one next.

OK, fixed the latch / catch not unlocked issue. I had not fully advanced the hook after lining up the dots as I thought I had. Microswitch now engaged, correct result reported. Same result when calibration attempted: nothing, followed by "Function inactive, end position not reached."

My 2001 C2 top has not worked the entire five years I've owned the car, full saga below.* Without all the back story, here's where I am today. When I click "Calibrate," nothing happens and PIWIS 3 returns "Function inactive, end position not reached." The front latch is reset per the service manual, and the clamshell potentiometer was installed at as close to 6.2k ohms as I can get it (about 6.24-6.26). [I rebuilt this engine in my dining room with my cat, 12,000 miles ago—I may not know what I'm doing, but I can follow directions.] Top is in service position. Actual Values / Input Signals Latch locked Catch not locked Latched unlocked Catch not unlocked (can't be both, right, has to be one or the other?) EDIT: RESOLVED, please see follow up post. Convertible top Convertible top raised Convertible top compartment Convertible top compartment lid unlocked Right side flap up Right side flap not up Right side flap down Right side flap down Left side flap up Left Side flap not up Left side flap down Left side flap down Speed Speed >5 km/h (3 mph) (that's not correct) Handbrake Applied Latching hook Latch hook not actuated Engine-compartment lid Engine-compartment lid closed Convertible top button Close convertible top button actuated Supply voltage 14.45 v Warning light on 36044.3 min (!) Actuation counter 1 1746 Actuation counter 2 65536 Calibration counter 2 Pot 1, convertible top 0.92 v Pot 2 (conv. top compartment. lid) 2.51 v Calibration: Pot 1 val 1 0.80 v Calibration: Pot 1 val 2 1.27 v Calibration: Pot 1 val 3 1.88 v Calibration: Pot 1 val 4 2.29 v Calibration: Pot 1 val 5 2.96 v Calibration: Pot 1 val 6 3.22 v Calibration: Pot 2 val 1 1.55 v Calibration: Pot 2 val 2 1.82 v Calibration: Pot 2 val 3 2.00 Calibration: Pot 2 val 4 2.71 These aren't even actual calibration values, are they, they're stored values from the last time it successfully calibrated. It's my latch isn't it. There's a microswitch I've overlooked, a stupid simple on off switch, and because of that, it never starts the calibration process. Guess I'm going out there one more time this weekend and taking that off again. Insight invited, thanks for letting me ramble. 😄 Keith *The Complete Saga I bought the car like this in January of 2001. Tip cab with a top that had been manually put up via emergency procedure. Dash light for the top was on. I found a matching hardtop an hour away that same week, manually put the top down, slapped the hardtop on, and drove it. Turns out, the left rear window regulator had failed and someone had manually pulled it up (the motor was missing) and then drove a drywall screw through the regulator frame close enough under the bottom of the window bracket that the window stayed up. I rebuilt both rear window regulators and in October of 2021, started working on the top. I probably didn't reset the latch correctly at that time, or the clamshell pot. Still, I told Durametric to calibrate and it started to. When the top moved doubt 1/2 way up, I could hear the pump motor straining and—since the rear interior panels were still off—I took a look: both hydraulic pistons were jetting fluid down the rain drains. I put the hard top back on. Then the engine failed, then (unrelated) I moved, and I spent all of 2023 rebuilding it. July, 2024, I sent two cores to Cab Hydraulics in Sarasota to rebuild. Put them in, new hoses too, and this time I reset the latch and the clamshell pot correctly. I think. But there was no longer a top warning light on on the cluster. I told Durametric to calibrate it, and it wouldn't. Opened a dialogue with the developers, sent them logs they asked for, did everything the guy said, and the last I heard was that maybe their software wouldn't calibrate it unless it was in an error state. Then (not their fault) I took a job and started the process of moving. Hard top went back on. July 2026, time to get back to it. I knew I was going to have to have access to PIWIS, so I followed that thread on some other forum ("under $75") and got the image running on my shop computer. Which, I understand, isn't the same as pulling up to the dealer, so I'm aware that's a possible failure point. I 100% believe the latch and clamshell pot to be correctly reset now. No dash light. When I click "Calibrate," nothing happens and PIWIS 3 returns "Function inactive, end position not reached."

Thanks, Loren - per other threads here, I've cleaned the MAF sensor and checked its actual values via the Durametric (V did increase with RPM, as expected), and I've run a tank of Techron to see if I could cheat and easily clean the injectors. New fuel filter, too. None of which are dispositive on those issues, though, of course, and I haven't done anything to test fuel pressure or flow rate or for intake air leaks, but Next place I will look is the exhaust, because I took the mufflers out when I did the coils and plugs, and these codes weren't happening before. Simplest explanation might be the most likely, if I didn't button up the exhaust properly, there you go. Regardless, I suppose there's no alternative to methodical and systematic troubleshooting, so thank you for the list!

2001 Cabriolet, Tiptronic. Got a whole handful of codes today after the car had sat for five hours in Florida shade - maybe not a 100% cold start, but not anywhere near temperature. Notably, the secondary air pump did not come on. New Beru coil packs and Bosch plugs all around. Start up / idle RPM only: 600 - 1,100 rpm. Based on my searches only, it seems I'm looking at two different things - the secondary air pump and 1128, 1130 can be connected to the misfire codes. Lots of threads here just on those codes by themselves. But the 1341, too, on cold start, well under 3,000 rpm? I mean, good threads here too on troubleshooting that for electrical, DME, solenoid, or actuator, But to get all these at the same time? Am I ignorantly looking for some correlation between cause and effect that may or may not exist? P1341 Porsche fault code 174 - Camshaft adjustment bank 1 below limit value P0300 Porsche fault code 62 - Misfire damaging to cat. converter P0301 Porsche fault code 63 - Cylinder 1 misfire damaging to cat. converter P1128 Porsche fault code 360 - Oxygen sensing adaptation idle range bank 1 P1130 Porsche fault code 361 - Oxygen sensing adaptation idle range bank 2

Thank you Loren, I swear I looked longer and more times than I’d care to admit. 🤪

Rats. Well I haven't yet figured out the magic solution to having a post signature ...

I should have said, it's auto. Good point, if I was shifting (and I wish I was), it'd be flying all around the inside of the car, without a seat back on my back hahahahaha There's probably a way I can put all that info in my signature, so it shows up in every post ...

I'm driving it now (well, not right now), I just get "low rider" stuck in my head every time, because I have to lean forward to sit upright.

See, these are the types of things that wake me up at 3am in a cold sweat 🤣 And I get your point, because the position my seat is in is SO AWFUL that if I can just get it somewhere closer to where I'd want it, I'll bump this project to the bottom of my list. But it is SOOOO BAADD - the good news is that if I wanted to sleep in the car, I'm all set!

Thanks, Jon, that's what I was afraid of. Oh well!

I'm sure the answer to this is somewhere on the internet, but I've tried and tried and haven't found it. So I apologize in advance if this is stupid or I've just been searching incorrectly. Or maybe I just already know the answer and I'm trying to ignore it, hahahahaha. The left power seat doesn't work, in any direction. The fuse is good. I took apart the switch assembly, nothing visibly remarkable there - no obvious oxidation or visible deterioration. Is there any way to manually adjust the power seat, or is my option just to take it out, take it apart, diagnose what's wrong, and replace whatever has failed? 2001 996 cab, please and thank you. Keith

"You moron, 14%!? The head for cylinder 1 is clearly cracked and you are a cad. Do not attempt to drive the car under any circumstances. IMS. Bore scoring."

I just did this last weekend as well - the door handle spring had broken, at the inside handle end. I was able to bend a new hook, pull the spring out (to account for the fact it was now shorter) and put it all back together while I wait for my $8 replacement spring. But honestly, without that photo, gonna be real hard to answer your question. 🙂