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Wow, that's bizarre. I recently saw an opened-up Cayman at a tech session, and I could have sworn it was a 996 throttle body part number rather than the 986 part used in the 986/987. Maybe they recently switched? What's also weird is that my PET PDF shows part number 996.605.115.01 for the 996 and 997. Do you know if 996.605.115.01 has been superceded by 997.605.115.00? It doesn't list an SS in the retail price tool. Same question would apply for the gasket 996.110.319.00 which was used for both the 987 and 997 whereas you list 997.110.319.00. Has the earlier one been superceded?

Is Cayman in PET yet? I would assume so. I'm looking for the Cayman S throttle body part number and connected item part numbers on either side. On a 987 Boxster, these are located: MG1, SG06, Ill. 106-00 (#16 Air Box Hose) MG1, SG07, Ill. 107-00 (#1 Throttle Body; #2 Intermediate Piece Gasket, #3 Pan-Head Screw) MG1, SG07, Ill. 107-10 (#8 Intermediate Piece) Thanks!!!

Looking for the part number of the remote key for the Carrera GT. I have read that this can be used in Boxsters and other late 2-button cars rather than the cheap-looking OEM remote keys. This is similar to the new 911 design keys except that instead of 911, it says GT and the trunk icon is the rear trunk rather than the front trunk. http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant...ategory_Code=WS

OK. I figured it out. You squeeze the tab in while pushing the connector in. Then, it clicks and releases. The trick is to not pull while squeezing the tab.

The 2.5L ones look so much easier. Here's a pic off eBay. I can't tell if you push/pull/lift or what.

Sorry for asking a stupid question, but I can't figure it out and/or don't want to break something. How does one unhook the electrical connector when R/R an O2 sensor? It's kind of a flat oval thing with a tab on it. Does the tab push in or pull out. I also read somewhere that you push rather than pull to unhook it. Any sage advice so I don't break something appreciated. Thanks!

There are a lot of ricers around where I live with these illegal retrofits. They are absolutely obnoxious at best. It's a misnomer to say they are conversions because they do not convert the optics/reflectors. Maybe you can get away with it (partially) if you aim your headlights at the ground, but as noted, the halogen reflectors/optics are not designed for HID bulbs. If 100W bulbs are illegal for street use, then HIDs are equivalent to approx 150W bulbs and, worse, they are aimed/focused wrong.

Is the location where the O2 sensors connect to the engine (electrical side not exhaust side) the same for the 2.5L and later 2.7/3.2L engines? I guess what I'm trying to figure out is if the sensors are the same and just the wire lengths are different (presumably just longer) or are the connectors, sensors, # wires, or other things that are different.

I think the only hope of improving gas mileage by 31% is probably that it restricts the airflow by 31%. Gosh, there must be some kinda conspiracy to keep this advanced technology out of the hands of car manufacturers and only sell it on eBay. Who needs a hybrid? ;)

I have the same/similar problem. Most likely, it is the same accordian/bellows portion which I've read can crack/leak. Mine is soaked with oil and drips. For the life of me, I couldn't get that accordian piece out. There are not gaskets--only 2 spring clamps. The tube snaps on with thicker detents on the ends. (I have the replacement parts.) There is also an oil filler tube portion that fits into the block and attaches by 3 bolts. I found that there is no easy way to remove that either because the 3rd bolt is blocked by the right manifold, so I determined I would not replace that part :) You cannot get to it from the front side of the engine either. It seems possible to remove the forward end of the bellows. I removed the spring clamp, but still could not get the hose off. I didn't want to try any harder for fear of braking the portion that fits into the block above. I even cracked the flange on the plastic fill tube to the block. The only way I figure it will come out is if I cut it off. The real problem, however, is the rear of the accordian tube that connects to the trunk which is wholly inaccessible. I finally found this jewel of a post: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6675 In the post by Tool Pants regarding his coolant tank replacement, you can see the oil fill hose well above the coolant line indicated by the yellow arrow. It makes the coolant line look like a piece of cake. I have tried getting at it from above and below with special hose clamp tools and even a lot of cussing, but there is no way. I will try again maybe over the holidays taking out more parts. Tool Pants, do you think or know if it's possible to get to the trunk end of the accordian portion of the oil fill tube (in Post #13) by taking out the radiator tank? That is a heck of a lot of extra work, but if that's what has to be done, then I'd rather do it than paying X 100s of dollars to someone else. The access is truly unbelievable. My fill tube is soaked where it connects at the sheetmetal whereas yours is only a little damp. The accordian portion is soaked but I can tell if it's running down from the clamp end or not. One boarder posted that upon removal, his was perforated in several places. Anyone know for sure how to remove the oil fill hose? The access/orientation is very different from the 996. Reference: http://www.renntech.org/forums/uploads/post-4-1132614291.jpg

There can be no difference in temperature, snorked or not. The system is completely sealed to the point where the snork attaches. Neither case breathes engine compartment air. The PCNA guy who was quoted that the desnorked did or whatever must not know much about Boxsters. I cannot imagine any statistically significant temperature difference in heat picked up by a plastic snork or a rubber surround (assuming some sunshine or warming effect getting behind the grill. Only minor differences in turbulence and restriction of the snork (and sound). Finally, from a thermodynamics point of view, I believe any additional heat taken in by the engine improves efficiency. It's just not good from a HP point of view due to the air density. I'm too lazy to look up the formula. The only rational reason for getting worse MPG without a snork is that you wind that flat six out to redline every chance you get to hear that wonderful sound. I have heard that desnorking adds HP just bordering on being statistically significant.

Are the 5 versions: Standard length 16.5mm head Standard length 14.5mm head Standard length wheel locks +5mm length (GT3/550 SE 16.5mm head) +5mm length wheel locks I think there is a new "universal" theft-deterrent star-shaped wheel lock for the standard length 987/997. Maybe those only go with the lighter bolts? That makes 6 bolts or is there also a +5mm longer version making 7 and/or a +5mm 14.5mm head bolt and universal lock making 8 or 9 versions?! Good grief!

There is no one best tire. It depends on what you want: dry grip, treadwear, low noise, steering response, stiff ride, wet weather safety, etc. Based on your questions, I would assume that you are not racing and on a budget, so you should avoid competition tires and maybe get something like the Bridgestone RE750s. I had those, and they were excellent--about 98% of my S-03s. Remember that Boxsters/911s eat rear tires for lunch. 12K miles is pretty common. Some of those big 285/30s go for $375 a piece. Go to TireRack and spend a few hours over there.

235/45R17 and 235/40R18. Those are actually approx 25.3" diameter which is a better match for the 265/35R18 and 265/40R17s that I ran. The standard 225/40R18 are closer to 25.0" as is the 285/30R18. I wouldn't sweat the 0.3" diameter difference. I personally like the 235s since they have a higher load rating. Rim scraping depends a lot on the tires (and your driving obviously). My original PZero Asimms had no rim protection bars. My RE750s had gigantic, mother-in-law proof rim protection bars. If you head to your local dealship and browse the lot, you can usually see a wide variety of tires of various sizes on various wheel widths.

My fronts 235s on both 17" and 18" rub the plastic wheel liner at full lock. "Normal" on the GT3s. I've never seen a 265/30, and the diameter would be too small. 265/35, however, is a very common fitment and standard on late 90s 911 10" wheels. Rim protection bars and actual wheel section widths vary from manuf to manuf.

100% agree it is in the eye of the beholder. There are a lot of folks running 10" rears on Boxsters. The range of offsets you will see are 40mm to 50mm. Not to confuse you further, but I also think the front and rear should be matched to look nice as well. The offsets you have are perfect from a looks point-of-view. You basically want the minimum sized spacer that will allow them to fit since the back of the Boxster is so tight. I personally like the Turblo Look II wheels and was tempted to get them at one point. My advice: stop worrying, get them, and see if they fit. If they don't fit in the rear, get a small spacer. With 265s, I don't think you'll need spacers. With 285s, you probably will.

Hmmm, ar38070, you seem to have some sticky tires there :) 265s with ET40 will have no brake cable rubbing issues. You do not need ET40 to fit 285s, though. ET40 with 285s starts getting close to the fender (again depending on various manuf tolerances and if your car is lowered). I also disagree with Wheel Enhancement after studying this for years. Why don't you try mounting them with whatever tires you'll be using and see how much clearance there is? Nobody can tell you for sure what spacers you need, if any, since we don't know what tires you're running and even if we did, we don't know the various manufacturing tolerances. If you still don't want to try that, then get 265s and 5mm spacers/bolts in the rear. That will fit just about any conceivable set of manufacturing tolerances assuming that your car is reasonably stock.

Graeme, do you have a source for those super thin spacers? 5mm spacers was overkill for me (net ET 43mm), and the tires stuck out too much. I'd like a source for super-thin spacers, like 1 to 3mm. Next time around, I'd like to fit 295s that are on the narrower side, and actual vs spec'ed section widths (correcting for rim width) can vary considerably, especially new. BTW, the 275/40R17 is a smart setup since that's a popular size and cheaper rubber. Almost went that route...

Your fronts will be out far enough. You can run 285s on the rear with those 10", but I would be prepared for possible rear spacers on the order of 2 to 3mm. As Graeme noted, you're basically down to manufacturing tolerances of the car, wheels, tires, etc. My 18X10 ET48 with 285s (on the wide side) have about 1mm clearance to the strut and rub the parking brake cable. My tires also vary left-to-right about 2 to 3mm. It's going to be close.

Any chance you have a close-up picture of the 987 emissions sticker?

According to PET, the tube connected to the air box which houses the MAF sensor is 987.606.125.00. The question is: Is this part number for the tube and the MAF sensor or just the sensor? It is not for just the tube. And if just for the sensor, what is the P/N for just the tube? I can't imagine anyone would make a one-piece MAF sensor and tube as this would be more costly to replace and service and would not be applicable to any other vehicle. For the 986 550 SE, PET also calls out the same MAF sensor number above, but also shows a part number for an oval head screw which appears to secure the MAF sensor, so it would appear the MAF sensor is removable.

Keep us posted! On the old Champion website, they had a picture of what looked like a Boxster exhaust. When I asked, they said it wasn't, but there are not too many cars with dual tips in the center with a Boxster-shaped cutout in the bumper.

I basically figured out what I wanted to know. Thanks...

Aloha, Steve, I would be interested in anything that would help me figure out what could be retrofitted to earlier 986s. On the 987, there is a large plastic shield outside of the snorkle. On the 986, the snorkle is directly behind the vents, but the airbox snakes around. It looks like the MAF, tubing, and even rear intake manifold crossover tube is different on the 987. If the 550 SE is the same as 987, then more parts are required than I'd hoped for, but nonetheless, I'm sure this would pass smog. The price may run me more than an EVO, though. I'm not sure what happened over at PPBB. I posted, the page reloaded, then later the post was gone. Maybe there was a hiccup right at that moment. I had another post deleted a while back when I referenced a group buy over here at RennTech. The answer I was told was that it needs to be moved to the classifieds. My reply was that I was not trying to sell anything or trying to organize a group buy since there was already one organized by someone else (not me) over here at RennTech. I thought that was a little too much for me considering how much NBC there is over at PPBB. Just trying to share info located on other boards I visit. Not trying to vent or take cheap shots, but PPBB is sometimes really frustrating. Have a great weekend, too, and thanks for entertaining my questions/comments!

Hi Steve, That would be great! I'm really wondering if the air box is the same. If the MAF and piping is relocated like on the 987, then I'm inclined to think they are. Your reference to renntech.org is still there on PPBB, so maybe just words like Loren are banned :angry: which is too bad since Loren's been very helpful to me and a great guy when I met him in person. Thanks, again, Steve for helping to solve the 550 SE air filter/housing mystery.