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jstew039

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About jstew039

Profile Fields

  • From
    Phoenix, AZ
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2001 986 Boxster
  • Future cars
    air cooled Porsche, VW
  • Former cars
    1956 VW Type 1 - oval window
    1965 VW type 1
    1969 VW Type 1
    1972 VW Karmen Ghia
    1987 BMW E30 325e

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  1. I am extremely fortunate that there is no evidence of moisture at all in the seat well. And I really had it in my mind that it was the Drive Block...but you are not the only person that has told me the only systems that are interrupted are ignition and fuel...if it is working properly. I removed the unit from under the seat and visually inspected, inside and out. Replaced the mini 15 amp fuse and refitted the unit back in place. Still nothing...BUT THEN with the key in the ignition and the ignition in the ON position...I just started trying different electrical items, and when I turned the headlights on - BAM!! the dash lit up and power was restored. Hmmm, maybe a bad headlight switch?
  2. Well...I am back with the same issue. only this time the car has no power, meaning that it appears that the battery is completely dead and there is no power at all to any component (no interior lights, dash lights, power locks, etc.). However, the battery is fully charged and the anti-theft light is blinking on the radio. I have been told that the Electronic Immobilizer (aka Drive Block) will only interrupt power to the coils and consumer components will still be active. 😞
  3. thank you all for the input! i really appreciate having this resource. Update: since the issue was getting more extreme and it was a strong feeling of mine that it was the Drive Block, because of the power going out except that the radio and clock settings were saved. i took the alarm/immobilizer unit out of the car and ensured the connections were all good and no corrosion. i took the fuse out of the unit and cleaned the blades. after reinstalling i have not had an issue...this has happened before though. i changed the ignition switch and the car was great for a while. i will see what happens. again thank you all for the input.
  4. the car will die while idling - when i say die i mean complete electrical shutdown, no horn, no dash lights, nothing...after a few seconds, it is back. i don't have to reset the radio or clock. i have had the electrical shutdown also happen when i turn the ignition off and then as i pull the key out of the ignition (this is the clicking sound) the power cuts off. totally baffled.
  5. been there...there was no sign of moisture, corrosion. it wasn't even dirty. that was all part of my initial searching out and cleaning of all the 18 ground points on the car. i will definitely check again!! as this must be the culprit.
  6. new wrinkle that has me very suspicious of the alarm / vehicle immobilizer: when the car is acting up (lights, radio, etc) going on and off very quickly. definitely loss of electrical power...when i turn the car off, there is total loss of electrical power. no interior lights, no dash lights, no horn, nothing at all. turning the ignition switch on / off repeatedly does nothing. moments later...literally moments later, 1 - 2 minutes. there is power again AND the radio has not reset (i don't need to enter the code) the digital clock is not reset. at this point the car starts right up. more odd noises...when the car is sitting dead, there is a very light thud about every 10 seconds. sounds like it is coming from the passenger side. this got worse just from the other night. the key fob is not locking / unlocking the doors any longer so i locked the doors with the key. when we came back to the car i had to insert the key into the door to unlock. it worked, but the alarm went off and i had to insert the key into the ignition. that stopped the alarm, however the red light on the door lock rocker switch didn't go out right away and it wouldnt operate the passenger door lock...i had to reach across that open the door. since that time (tuesday night) i am now having these more extreme cases of power loss.
  7. i will get the alternator tested at my Porsche shop, good suggestion. another oddity...the just barely audible mouse like squeak that accompanies the power drops, coming from the fuse / relay area...or possibly from under the driver seat. thank you
  8. new information on my electrical issue... after acquiring the proper testing equipment and ensuring that the battery was at full charge. i have gone weeks of driving (it is great convertible weather here right now) without anymore issues. THEN last night we went to dinner and for the first time i locked the car because i parked on a street several blocks from the restaurant. The buttons on my key fob are worn out and the only way to lock and unlock is using the key in the door. however when i do this the alarm always goes off when i enter the car and i have to put the key in the ignition to disable the alarm. driving home the electrical issues were back. this kind of makes sense because the vehicle behaves as though the entire electrical system is shutting down...something i would expect the alarm or immobilizer to do. as you drive the car down the road the electrical is just on the verge of shutting down, headlights...dash lights...engine power...all flickering. any thoughts? thank you.
  9. i have ordered the Schumacher tester. thank you, i appreciate your time and help. now that i have ensured my battery is good and at full charge...i will continue on my electrical anomaly search. thank you
  10. i took the battery to an auto parts store to replace it, i had them test first and the battery tested good. so i didnt replace it. Silver_TT - i am going to research this "AGM" battery you speak of, for i am intrigued. i had no idea that load testers would be that inexpensive, i am going to invest in that for sure...do you have any recommendations for a load tester / charging (alternator) testing unit?
  11. i really appreciate the detailed information and i understand my "load test" was inferior to that of a shop...that was kind of my point in explaining the steps i took...the battery didn't pass my simple testing. i have fully charged the battery and i am taking it to a shop this morning for testing and inevitable replacing. again, to reiterate...i really appreciate your time and knowledge. i do not feel your answer was pedantic in any way.
  12. battery was at 12.4 so i charged for 4 hours and retested, battery was at 13.10 load test = headlights on, high beams, radio on, blower fan, lowered the top. re-test battery 5 minutes after the above load was applied = 12.62 (with all accessories off and key in off position) started the car...meter reads 11.40 as engine is cranking while running volts 14.13 at high end and 13.70 at low end (estimates as my meter does not have a max / min mode) while car was running i raised the top, with accessories on (radio, fan, lights) meter was pretty steady around 13.9x turned the car off and let sit for 30 minutes. re-test battery with negative cable removed 12.53 re-test with negative cable attached 12.51 i was able to reproduce the issue immediately following the above testing. i can reproduce the problem with the car running or not. i would say the battery, even though the cranking power is good...has a short and needs to be replaced. the battery was installed 12/20 and i purchased the car in 7/21 so i don't really know the status of that battery. it is an Interstate M 94R the alternator is working well. i am going to replace the battery, and see what i get.
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