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Silver_TT last won the day on September 15

Silver_TT had the most liked content!

About Silver_TT

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  • From
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2002 Porsche 911 Turbo
  • Former cars
    2002 Porsche 911 4S

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Community Answers

  1. +1 Sunset Porsche is an excellent site p.s. I see you're in Brooklyn. I used to live in Clinton Hill.
  2. Redline??? That's exactly what ruined my gearbox. It's your car and your money but I don't want something bad to happen to you like it did to me -- you really need to be careful here or this is what you could have in store in your future:
  3. be very careful, i had a gearbox that was destroyed because the previous owner used aftermarket transmission fluid. also Porsche has changed their recommendation over time. last I looked they are now recommending Shell transaxle gear oil , at least for the 996TT's Getrag. this ain't like motor oils where it's "take your pick"..........
  4. Looks like the cams have to be locked on the 5 chain too...that's what I thought. Good lord, be careful what you read on the internet if it's not from a trusted source. LN is def the way to go no one in their right mind would argue that. Lots of horror stories from people that used the Pelican Parts procedure, and many others.... From the PDF that JPF posted: "Use appropriate long cam lock tool for 3-chain or short cam lock tool for 5-chain engine to lock cams prior to removing chain tensioners."
  5. Sorry just saw you have the 5 chain setup. I will defer to JFP or someone that has done that job a million times.
  6. Yes you need to lock the cams. people here are very nice and friendly, this isn’t Rennlist … never feel silly asking questions
  7. Strong work…. Mine also had a lot of broken catalyst inside. The cats are subject to a lot of vibration which I think is a big factor. Glad you got it sorted
  8. Bank 2 is better but not fine. Bank 1 is shot. I had a 2002 C4S and had this exact issue if you do a search you will find a detailed thread. I would replace both since Bank 2 will be toast soon. IMHO cats fail on these cars at this mileage or lower due to the vibration and over time it breaks or otherwise damages the honeycomb inside. The cats are expensive new but you may be able to find a good fair from a low mileage doner vehicle from like a scrap yard. I would never buy parts for my car from a scrap yard but for certain parts it cannot hurt your car. For example I bought a $2000 alcantara headliner for $100 that was literally like new and you can do the same thing with the cats. After you have this fixed you should note that it can take 100 miles or more of driving before your readiness states are reset. So just keep that in mind when you need to do your smog test. Good luck!.........
  9. Strong work! Met my indy through PCA too.... can't even remember it's been so long, I think he did my first track inspection.
  10. I would try to find a good indy near you who has knowledge in Porsche (usually VW/Audi guys will do pretty well on this platform too since there is much overlap). I have learned my car inside and out and have the knowledge to do literally almost any job on this car. But I don't have the tools and quite honestly at this point I don't want to invest a lot of money in them when I have an indy who I know is better than 99% of dealer Porsche techs but only charges $100/hour, and he has all the tools in the world. Unless you want to spin wrenches professionally or just like to collect tools for fun, IMHO at this point of where cars are I'm not sure it makes a lot of sense to invest a ton of money in specialized tools. I would love to have a SnapOn DTac because it's an amazing tool..........but odds are I will probably only need to use it once or twice more in my lifetime. I provide all parts and fluids (OE from Sunset) and he just does the labor. So in this sense my car is "dealer serviced" -- it's the exact same thing except you don't get your face ripped off by the Porsche dealer.
  11. You could consider using a high quality oil like Driven DT40 with 5K mile OCIs. You can buy it at advance auto parts using coupons for the 10 packs (not single quarts), when it's available. It comes and goes, I stock up and check every few months if I need more. Like JFP is saying, one problem with running cheap oils even at short OCIs is they shear at high temperatures turning the oil into something closer to water than a lubricant.
  12. If you see a torn boot replace it immediately. The difference is if you ignore it eventually it will get expensive and things the CV joint will fail. You will know because you will hear a knocking sound or clicking as I mentioned .... or if it gets bad it can affect suspension and drive experience (vibration, etc). The boot is very cheap. Every time my car is up on the rack I always look at them to be sure no tears because if you catch it early it's cheap. But if you sleep on it, this gets expensive fast.
  13. On my Audi Q5 2.0T I started to hear a clicking in the front suspension. Inspected and found grease slung out from the ripped boot .... it was too late, dirt and debris had gotten in there and destroyed the CV joint. Now I watch it like a hawk and caught the other side, which happened very shortly after, while it was only the boot which is cheap and easy. Anyway as soon as you see grease I would fix it. Preferably you should inspect your boots regularly. On some of these cars the boot has been revised to be a bit tougher and more durable..............
  14. This moderator's response is 100% spot on. Your engine couldn't maintain the proper level of crankcase vacuum. This is why for engines burning oil (not because the oil cap is off) one of the first and easiest things to do is check the crankcase vacuum to see if you have an issue with the AOS, which is tasked with regulating the crankcase vacuum to spec.
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