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Silver_TT last won the day on April 11 2019

Silver_TT had the most liked content!

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About Silver_TT

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  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2002 Porsche 911 Turbo
  • Former cars
    2002 Porsche 911 4S

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  1. It's interesting that Porsche recommends mixing their OE coolant. I know they are under the VW umbrella technically now and I just looked and my 2.0T coolant came premixed 50/50. It's more expensive to buy this OE coolant but, as I mentioned, after being burned for $5K on a gearbox due to someone else's mistake it has made me think twice about trying to cut any corners whatsoever (which is something I never did much of in the first place but I know some people think I'm crazy about OE fluids/parts but once bitten twice shy). Just curious at what age/mileage did you normally see th
  2. Both the pH and refractometer -- I'm glad I asked, thank you for correcting me. Interesting how you put it, I never thought of coolant like oil but it makes sense. I did not know that the newer "lifetime" coolant wasn't really lifetime but since you are comparing it to oil it then goes without saying. Of course people talk about oil all the time but you don't really ever run across too many conversations about coolant (despite the fact that it's also critically important). What specific kind of water are you using with the pre mix (anything beside distilled water)? A
  3. Great explanation, I understand now. One thing I wanted to ask you is that many coolants come premixed these days with the water so you just add it as-is, no need to mix with water in a specified ratio. So you know when you put it in the ratio is spot on. What is causing that ratio not to stay stable over time? Also just to be sure I understand, the pH test is an alternative to the refractometer, correct? In other words you did either or, not both. Not sure if it's true but I read that using the pH strips is what you use for propylene glycol (check for pH under 7 indicating ac
  4. I just looked up the coolant refractometer. I had never seen that before. Looks like it can test maple syrup sugar content too, wild (don't worry, I won't use the same device 😛). The following picture is what I believe you see. What value range are you checking for? Also should I think of measuring the pH level an alternative to using a refractometer? What pH level would be equivalent to the specified ethylene or propylene glycol level?
  5. Thank you. Didn't mean to drive this thread off topic but I just had to ask because some of your posts have caused me to think about things in a way that have subsequently allowed me to make important discoveries. I am effectively mirroring what you your shop does. Coolant freeze point pH is a good one, I'll add that to my list. Thanks
  6. Yes, I definitely agree. If it's a serious vacuum leak on my vehicle it usually results in a CEL for oil pressure and/or the AFR being too lean. You have mentioned before that for every car that came through your shop you did this vacuum test and I know you also load tested batteries (which is a common practice among good shops, at least the ones I know). Is there anything else you had on your "list" each time a car rolled through aside from these two things?
  7. Awesome, thank you. I have read several "reviews" that test this exact digital manometer you have against both a professional field unit as well as the U-type liquid unit and they all said it gives results that are both very accurate and precise. I'm going to buy another oil cap for my car and do this for fun one day when I'm bored. The idea would be to also do it every 6 months/5K miles/whatever going forward to see how the unit performs over time. Obviously you want to be sure you don't have any vacuum leaks that would "pollute" the reading -- in my case, don't think I have any as I have
  8. Hey JPF, I wanted to know more about how you tested the cars that passed through your shop. Did you use a digital manometer? I have never used one before but wanted to try it. It looks like you just need to hook it up to the vacuum line somewhere (can use oil tube for example if you can seal the connection) to have to be part of the pressure system for the crankcase. When I look at images of the device it looks like it has two hose inputs as opposed to a traditional analog vacuum pressure gauge which only has one hose tube. Would you put both of those hose lines into the sealed
  9. This is a 10+ year old post so part numbers listed may very likely have been superseded. I would call Sunset, give them your VIN, and order the latest part from them. This is a fantastic thread.....the information given by Izzy is very helpful.
  10. I just looked at what you have -- that is a nice setup. Yes, you are correct it would still slosh outside the baffle. I guess they are not mutually exclusive but I agree with you that is pretty funny about buying a +2qt only to underfill, it sounds funny at face value at least. Bilt Racing Service BRS 2QT Deep Sump Oil Pan Kit MY97-08 M96/M97 inc. X51-Style Baffle LNENGINEERING.COM <p>The Bilt Racing 2 QT Deep Sump Kit provides similar oil pressure drop protection as an Accusump kit, but takes oil control to a whole new level. We've had Pro Ra
  11. One question I had in the revised drawings is on the hard turn I see a lot of the oil being forced over. In my car there is a baffle in the sump which keeps the oil from doing this. Does the M96 have this as well (I know xmac said he's running the LN deep sump)?
  12. Thanks. Yes from what I saw taking apart the AOS the diaphragm with the tension from the spring is what throttles the vacuum to the specified level. In the event of a torn/cracked diaphragm I have seen some people don't replace the part and only replace the diaphragm/spring. While much cheaper, I personally think this is not a very good idea since I have seen problems caused by this where the diaphragm was a different material or the spring had a different size or tension, which can cause things not to work correctly. There are several reasons actually but one of the reasons I r
  13. I agree with this and never gave this much thought until I started to research it in depth a few weeks ago. In the AOS I replaced last week in a different car I wasn't getting any CEL's and the car drove just fine. But when I pulled the intake hose a bunch of oil streamed out everywhere. When I inspected the AOS I could see it was no longer working 100% and allowing oil to bleed into the intake. I will always replace my AOS every 40 or 50K miles going forward even if there is nothing wrong with it. Also meant to say in my last post my 996 4S used to blow some oil smo
  14. Very interesting post, thanks for starting this discussion. I just replaced the AOS on one of my cars last week so this topic is of interest to me at the moment. It is definitely true that the AOS helps collect and reburn blow-by, which helps reduce costly emissions and increase efficiency. When the AOS fails or starts to fail the vacuum pressure increases massively which can cause oil to actually get sucked into the intake and raises the possibility that you could destroy your engine by way of hydrolocking it with oil:
  15. Yes, definitely agree with JFP. Just did a similar job on my car about a week or so ago and I was puzzled when I pulled off the intake and quite a bit of oil dumped out (much more than just a film). But upon close dissection/inspection of the AOS unit I could see it was on its way out and allowing much more oil to "bleed" into the intake than it should have been. I wasn't losing any oil between 5K changes as of my last change but I suspect if I would have let it go longer it would have started to burn some oil if the car didn't CEL first alerting me to the issue (I changed the AO
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