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Silver_TT last won the day on April 11 2019

Silver_TT had the most liked content!

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About Silver_TT

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    Contributing Member

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  • From
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2002 Porsche 911 Turbo
  • Former cars
    2002 Porsche 911 4S

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  1. Gbox out of Boulder, CO gonna be your best bet. Hopefully the OEM Mobilube PTX was the only oil ever put in the gearbox since using other non-OEM oils can cause damage. Call Stan at Gbox and tell him the problem and he will be able to tell you how to proceed. No one in the US knows more about these gearboxes than he does.
  2. Nice pics! Agree about the front lip, it's really really low. It scraped just a little bit on the entering incline for my front driveway before I realized you have to pull in at an angle realllll slow ?
  3. That looks familiar (yours is a convertible though which I'm a fan of). Your plan sounds pretty smart to me. There are also several outstanding members here who have TT's that will be able to help you when you need it, it's a good group. The Mezger is a beast, try not to get addicted to boost ?
  4. Just my two cents coming from a 2002 911TT (also silver), it's a high-performing beast of a car at stock. Mine came with a ECU tune but it made emissions fail (anything other than the stock flash makes it fail a checksum like validation) despite coming with a OBD II tool that was supposed to flash the car back and forth between stock and the tune. Florida may be easier. The most surprising thing though was when I took the tune off and went back to stock ECU I couldn't tell a difference -- the boost was the same, etc. I can't say that I've tried every flash out there but I don't think you're going to get too much else out of it unless you start to spend on hardware to go with it (which is far from cheap). To each their own but in my opinion is the stock car doesn't need much so maybe drive it a few months and see how you feel before investing in mods. Again, just my two cents, I know someone's going to disagree and say modding their car was awesome. In another state with less stringent checks you may be ok........
  5. I know you know now but it's always best to go see the car and drive it there. Trust but verify. Even if the mechanic went through the Porsche training program and got certified (I believe there are different levels as well), if they are now working at an independent dealer outside of Porsche and are dishonest or sloppy, I doubt Porsche has any recourse. Even if this happened directly from a Porsche authorized dealer you would still have issues as the laws simply are not setup in your favor -- once the money trades hands it's a done deal. However at an authorized Porsche dealer I would think the likelihood of something like that happening would be much less. Used car sales though is a shady business. I have bought a car in the past and missed things even though I knew exactly what to look for, picked it up in person, and had a PPI done at a Porsche dealership, got a carfax, etc, etc etc. I crossed my t's, dotted my i's...and still got burned. Some things like a CEL or stored codes are easy to catch. Other issues can be much more subtle or intermittent and make it hard to spot.... even for someone that has the knowledge of what to lookout for. Also ya I did mean it's just money but the cost of plugs and coils isn't as bad as some of the things people have been scammed on. There is no end to the crazy stories and lies you hear when looking at used cars. I tried to buy an Audi Q5 last summer and threw in the tower and bought a certified one from Audi. Too many idiots and liars out there selling cars. Sad state of affairs really, but you can't trust most people.
  6. It makes me nervous if I understand that the shop you use only has one person that can scan codes. To work on your car you need a PIWIS or 3rd-party Porsche-specific tool like Durametric. Scanning with a generic tool can work but sometimes gives incorrect/misleading information. Not using the proper tools can be expensive in time and money. I'm sorry this happened to you. Unfortunately most people selling cars aren't honest, including -- if not especially -- dealers. And the way the laws are setup, once the car/money trades hands you have very little recourse. People trying to sell a car conveniently "forget" things or embellish/exaggerate in their own favor -- they want to sell the car and, maybe I sound cynical here, but most people are just disingenuous. You can't trust them, especially when there's money involved. They will look you right in the eye and then lie through their teeth. Dealers are in the business of moving cars, the longer it sits the more desperate they are to move it. I've seen so many cars with issues try to be passed off as "clean as a whistle!", it's an embarrassment. While advisable, even an independent PPI isn't a guarantee. It's just a sanity check that when someone (who hopefully is very familiar with the ins/outs of these cars) scans codes and gets it up on a lift, there are no glaring issues. I wish you luck. If you end up just needing some new plugs and coils, and a couple other things it won't be the end of the world.
  7. Not a shot at you, you're clearly in the majority, but I'm always surprised at the lack of record keeping when I have been in the market to purchase a car. I'm fussy and risk-averse but I will not buy a car with missing or incomplete records. Period. As far as where to draw the line, I keep records and receipts for everything including and especially oil changes. I put them all in a manila envelope which I put away with all my other fun records to keep like taxes. You can scan them into your computer or whatever if you prefer. You can't always depend on the dealer or others to keep records for you. For privacy concerns, most dealers won't give out records on a vehicle from past owners. Your best bet is to track it yourself and it's really little to no incremental work. I bought my wife an Audi Q5 last summer and searched for 6 months trying to find a clean car with records. This is in the NYC area, which I would consider a very large market. Couldn't find one, almost no one keeps records these days. I really wanted to buy from a private party. After about 6 months I ended up saying to Hell with it and just bought a certified Audi. Too many shysters out there these days -- anything you can do to mitigate a potential buyer's risk and help them understand the full history of your car will only fetch you more money when you go to sell.
  8. Sorry to rain on your parade but if it looks too good to be true..... A 2010 TT with 22k miles for $49k? Not even close to market value, this car is listed at least $20k under its fair value. Obviously there's something missing here. Someone's gonna get burned on this.
  9. If it makes you feel any better, the failure rate is still material for other model years. So don't lose sleep at night kicking yourself that you should have bought a different year with a double row bearing or whatever. Any of the cars with this IMS design are going to be vulnerable to this catastrophic failure.
  10. 996's and 997's are both affected as they both use the same IMS design. The bearing has changed a few times but the design is still the same vulnerable design. As far as the IMS and rate of failure, folks will, much like engine oil, debate until they are blue in the face. Some people say tips fail less than manuals, cars driven more/less are better, etc. The fact is that no one knows the exact rate of failure (some information was given in the lawsuits but these are still back of the envelope numbers) and no one has the data to be able to run a regression (probably not even Porsche). But the simple fact that if an IMS failure does happen it has the potential to create an enormous amount of damage not limited to taking out the entire engine. So while the rate of incidence is debatable, it's the type of situation where if you do in fact experience a failure, or even the beginnings of failure with ferrous metal swirling around in your engine's oil, you're in a very serious and expensive predicament.
  11. Congrats on your new car! I would just echo what has already been said that most of these upgrades are just false marketing claims. If you want to really upgrade your car, you should think about the IMS if it hasn't already been done. Another consideration is you may get some unintended baggage if you chip your ECU or switch out the exhaust. It can cause a number of different type of problems -- eg. with emissions. In my state they check your ECU software and if it doesn't exactly match the car's OEM flash they will fail you. I have seen flashed 996's and 997's that produce nothing more than stock on a dyno. There are also people that change out their exhaust to a non-OEM that's supposed to work, or so the manufacturer claimed, only to start getting codes or an engine that runs rough, etc. I'm not saying that will happen for sure, but you're definitely rolling the dice, and as JFP has already alluded to, you need to ask yourself is it really worth it when you're spending money and incrementally getting little to nothing (possibly even negative value). My opinion would also be to enjoy your car and spend the money on track time and peace of mind (IMS Solution) for your investment.
  12. No one ever said Porsche parts were cheap but I'm pretty sure there are more differences than just the logo. I have never used parts geek but two words of warning. First a quick google search shows a lot of people are dissatisfied with parts geek and apparently they have a very restrictive return policy so if things don't workout for you the way you thought they would based on your model/year as you said you may be stuck with them. Second, those cats may work just fine, I'm not saying they won't but you won't know until you try. But you are rolling the dice and taking your chances. You may get codes and/or emissions readiness state failures. Those are not Porsche spec, so you're risking it. Also I'm sure you already know but if they are 48 state compliant, I guess you won't ever be moving to or selling your car in California or New York (I'm guessing those are the two states they don't include), two of the largest markets in the country.
  13. If you replace them with the OEM cats you shouldn't have any codes thrown after the install (emissions readiness states may need some time driving to clear/reset as they collect data over time rather than instantaneously).
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