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mrmickeymouse

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Everything posted by mrmickeymouse

  1. E Bay from another stealer $129.00 for extruded aluminum, allot of money for a little bit of coke can. Scott
  2. The Boxster manual and the TSB states not to clean it or touch it with anything, the biggest No... No... is do not drop it. I just turned 190,000 in my Toyota Four runner and just replaced the O2 [go figure]. Did you see what I wrote about the O2's and other "smog related" parts are in theory a warranted item. Scott
  3. Send me an e mail, and I will send you the TSB. It tells you what to do... ;) Scott
  4. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...y&code=diy_mtoc Hope this help's. There is another cocktail made from redline oil. Scott
  5. There is a TSB which recognized this set of codes: P0441 (DTC 93) Tank vent system P0455 (DTC 94) Tank vent system (major leak) P0422 (DTC 97) Tank vent system (minor leak) It was only supposed to be for the 98-99 Boxster. Scott
  6. I would say a little break free is better [less burning - can you imagine that area hot :eek: ] Here is the thread for the cylinder location. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...=2645&hl=firing Scott
  7. There is a Tech Bullet on this. I remember reading something on it, it was pretty complicated to repair. Shoot me an e mail, and I will try to send it to you. Scott
  8. This may help.... http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=3018 Scott
  9. Import it, "gray market car" , I must be missing something :( . Scott
  10. But....but.... he has a KM speedo.... Maybe an import to Canada. Scott
  11. 986 504 119 00 cover rear $108.00 If you want the page drop me an e mail. :jump: Scott
  12. I hear the North sea is bad this time of year...... 2003 Finland Boxster non/s.
  13. It is the O2's which tells you this, on that side. It would be very difficult for the MAF to understand sides, so process of elimination and closest "sensor" would be the O2's. I would presume [without looking it up] the first O2 after the cylinders and before the the "Cat" is most accurate. It is very nice to be this specific. In normal cars you may have 1 or 2 O2's telling you this for 8 cylinders. Not much help there.. Form with function. Scott
  14. Actually the cost can be as low as $100.00 for the "Eisenglas" [plastic window]. It is far cheaper to have someone replace your rear window, then get a new top. As a side note: I have no idea why the rear window is not zippered in versus what we have now. In the old day's convertibles had zippered rear windows - go figure. Not to confuse you more but after driving your car, the rear wing light should go off. "Lights up as a check when the ignition is switched on and goes out after the vehicle moves off." "The warning light lights up when driving if the spoiler does not extend or reach its end position above 120 km/h." Scott
  15. Could be a wheel bearing also, the parts mentioned above are close in proximity to each other, so you may have a hard time figuring it out driving, it would be easier to jack your vehicle up safely and rotate your wheel and check for a rubbing as metioned above, if not it may well be your wheel bearing. Figures "G" and "H" are the two things metioned above "brake dust shield or a bent dust shield rubbing rotor." http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/proje...ange_rotors/are Mine is more difficult - sorry Scott
  16. Are you sure your leak is not coming down from somewhere else. Scott
  17. Cool... million miles, I know what to expect now. I will hold you to it :) Thanks, Scott
  18. What year is the Boxster with the secondary codes. Scott
  19. It's funny you should talk about gas mileage, I average 20-22 around town [some on freeway/ some off]. 90% lead footed, sorry I love the speed and power of my Boxster. What's cheaper a few cents in gas mileage or a new motor sooner. BTW - Is my mileage different then most people? Scott
  20. Suncoast is Okay, but there are better deals around, just need to shop around. No, your spoiler light is not normal [at least not while driving around under normal circumstances], but on the other hand it is normal for a salesman to lie. You can check it's operation by utilizing the spoiler switch, located at your left foot drivers side, about six inches up. Only switch looking thing down there, momentary. Scott
  21. Are you saying you never actually checked to see if there was a horn at all. Oh Wow :eek: Scott
  22. I don't mind Mobil 1, but Mobil 1 does not have the viscosity I prefer. Valvoline synthetic only because I have racer friend who swears by it; he did some tests on his own and saw Castrol [my favorite] make excessive wear in the valve train. So I am stuck with two [self imposed] Mobil 1 - wrong viscosity or Valvoline which he uses and likes, and now I like due to only burning 1/2 quart of oil in 5000 miles. Porsche states it should be higher, oh well. I am happy, it's quick and I don't hear any valve rattle. I love 20-50W, works well for me. I can only tell you what works for me and my cars, average miles are 150,000 plus. My Boxster is my baby with 137,000. There is no protection at 0W [in my opinion] If someone can tell me why I should run Ow [baby oil] in my car please enlighten me. Please don't say Porsche said so, some empirical testing will suffice. Scott
  23. Go to this part of the RENN Tech. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...nt&code=manuals Check out the manual, exhaust all simple solutions. Scott
  24. Oil [personal selection Valvoline 20w-50w synthetic Case][Lucky me on sale at Kragen 3.99.] Porsche states Mobil one. - Oil filter Q128/ 996 107 020 53 - Fuel filter 996 110 253 01 - Air filter 996 110 131 04 - Spark plugs Bosch - FR 7 LDC4 - Spark plug cables - none Good Luck, Scott
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