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mrmickeymouse

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Everything posted by mrmickeymouse

  1. mrmickeymouse
    The 2.5 is a very sturdy [MY97- 137,000] motor, except for a few motors which were built in [98 - early 99] mentioned above. You can also check with PCNA with the VIN and they supposedly know [but this is coming from the people who deny ever doing it - go figure]. BTW- 10 years unlimited mileage corrosion protection. Your questions are very broad, you should read a few forums and check a couple Boxsters out, and then with specific concerns ask ??? Good Luck, Scott
  2. mrmickeymouse
    I would not do that if I were you, that close to the ground could result in your scoop being forced up into the CV or other things, which there are plenty of in that area. Be safe and keep it like your picture has it, that looks just like mine. Scott
  3. mrmickeymouse
    Sure the O2's are easy, you can access them with a little monkeying around but it is not a big deal. Be careful of the wire and the tip of the new O2. Lift the car and checkout your exhaust, you will see them, you should use some "Break Free" or 3 in on oil, that heat will definitely make them a pain this :censored: to get out. A 22mm crows foot wrench or a O2 wrench. Send me an E mail, and I will send you a picture of it. Scott
  4. mrmickeymouse
    Are you getting voltage to the horns behind the radiator. If so then the only thing left to do is to get any 12V horn and try it, but if your getting voltage, then this is academic. Scott
  5. mrmickeymouse
    Actually "no" on the earlier vesion. I have a 97 which is riveted in. Scott
  6. mrmickeymouse
    What size motor are you getting rid of, what's the problem, are you moving up. I may be interested in your old motor. Scott
  7. mrmickeymouse
    I spent an hour trying to figure it out :censored: , finally crawled under the car to check it for any numbers-Nada... I just checked your number and see it now [but no pic on my PET-spoiler?], I am missing one also, but it's just a piece of rubber-riveted on. It's easier to make, then get a special ;) Porsche rubber flap. Pretty good detective work :thumbup: Thanks, Scott
  8. mrmickeymouse
    You may want to read the MAF thread http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=659 I believe you have some similarities. Scott
  9. mrmickeymouse
    The one I am talking about is as small as your little one made with the epoxy handle. It makes a snap on stubby look huge. Here is the link. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...temnumber=35438 Scott
  10. mrmickeymouse
    Reading my manual [MY97], I began to wonder why so many O2's were failing and what to do to help out [otherwords make Porsche responsible]. My manaul states as follows: California Long term Emmisions control system defects warranty - 70,000 miles or 7 years. Normal mileage and obvious years old, it seems most people would be applicable to this warranty. If everyone were to start claiming there O2's and Cats, after a oil separator or MAF or whatever went bad and contaminated the above mentioned Cats's or O2's. It seems Porsche would then take this matter seriously, and recall a faulty system part. Which may be causing all these woes's. A Normal Cat can go as far a 100,000 along with the O2's on normal cars. Why not here? To sum it up; it seems people are wasting there money and should take it to the dealer and invoke the above mentioned warranty. :soapbox: Scott
  11. mrmickeymouse
    How do you know it's the O2's. Scott
  12. mrmickeymouse
    Just went to Harbor Freight and Tools and I saw a flat screwdriver [the epoxy version size], almost identical to yours [tool pants] except it was stock . Tiny flat screwdriver. On another note, I had a problem with my ignition switch the other day [double honking-locking switch would stay lit]. I analyzed this and tried to figure out what makes these things tick, pins and a rotary switch. I then took my multi purpose tool [WD-40] and gave a spray thinking I may have gummed up contacts, and or pins may be hanging. Voila :jump: all better, are the Porsche gods :notworthy: looking over my shoulder or have I now screwed myself by talking about it. I thought it was worth a try. Scott
  13. mrmickeymouse
    Check the voltage at the fuse. Then run the circuit [wire] to the horn, check continuity. Scott
  14. mrmickeymouse
    Wow!!!! No massive scratches. Scott - I will stick with vinegar.
  15. mrmickeymouse
    What is the year of your vehicle? Could you also cite the information. Scott
  16. mrmickeymouse
    Actually positive pressure in the oil cap is more normal, unless you have such a tight engine you have no "blow by" [normal piston ring wear, has some blow by, unless it's allot of pressure]. Burning off excess oil in the engine is dependent on how much is in intake and so forth, it should be consumed rapidly upon driving, gas is a really good degreaser. If you do not have any check engine lights, I would say you are okay to drive it. Drive it and get rid of the oil, there really is no other way except for disassembly. BTW- remember the oil is in every crevice and will take a while to burn off. Unless I have missed something, you sound good to go. Scott
  17. mrmickeymouse
    You bought the other set right.... I will probably be selling my litronic, some time in the near future, if not. I am sorry he did not return your mail [that reflects on me], I told him about you and he said he was having computer problems [maybe that was it]. Let me know if you want me to call him. [e-mail me] Scott
  18. mrmickeymouse
    Thanks Jeff, I assumed [see what assuming did to me] they were both the same, aluminum brake-why? Plastic clutch-huh.. . Probably a DOT deal-right. Scott
  19. mrmickeymouse
    All you need is the wiring harness which was sold on ebay the other day, those appear to be whole units, which you asked about. Then splice and go, litronics have two busses :eek: for you two plug into where the stock clear or amber mix has a single buss. ;) Scott
  20. mrmickeymouse
    I am sorry, I thought you were upto your elbows in it and had a diagnosis already done. I was asking to see, if you were sure it was the separator, to me the symptom would consist of a lot of smoke [oily], and a throttle body with oil in it; you may have some excess carbon/dirt deposits but not an bath of oil. Yes, the area you mentioned is the TB, I hate to see you pull your separator and it be something else. You have not expounded on any engine noises or check engine lights [CEL]. If you need a TB location or picture E mail me. Scott
  21. mrmickeymouse
    Did you get a chance to see if you have any oil residue in your throttle body [TB], where the breather comes into it; visible- excessive. Scott
  22. mrmickeymouse
    They can either bolt on, or bolt through. I prefer bolt through due to the inability for it to change positions, at the most inopportune time. :drive: The stock Boxster pedal is made from from plastic [or some type super Porsche synthetic ;>). I would use drywall screws to drill through, they have any aggressive pattern, where as sheet metal screws are less aggressive and lack the self tapping ability. I would not use self tapers due to not looking flush when screwed in, the dry wall screws will need to be touched up with a little silver paint [if you have too]. Just my two cents, BTW- you could just paint your stock pedals silver for that racy look [just not were the foot makes contact]. :eek: Scott
  23. mrmickeymouse
    I believe this is it 986 504 893 00 rubber lip. Scott
  24. mrmickeymouse
    I have multiple part numbers: [revisions] 996 107 231 55 oil separator 1 996 107 023 51 oil separator -97 996 107 023 01 oil separator -98 996 107 023 02 oil separator 99- 996 107 023 03 oil separator 99- 996 107 026 00 oil separator, Scott
  25. mrmickeymouse
    996 504 043 02 cover center $105.00 996 504 527 02 cover front $114.00 Scott
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