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seventythree

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Everything posted by seventythree

  1. The following is from a similar discussion over on the Rennlist.com: >>I received a couple of responses on this, characteristic of which was this one from Steve Weiner at RennSport Systems. Since he replied to the public Racing list, I'm cross-posting his response here so you can also benefit from his input: -=-=-=-=-=-=-included bit-=-=-=-=- Be very careful about what you are buying; you do NOT want the Mobil 1, SM-rated 15w-50 stuff. That stuff lacks sufficient ZDDP to protect your motor. Mobil has reformulated this product and has released a non EP 15w-50 and its undergoing testing to see what its ZDDP content is. Once thats done, I'll post that here. Oils have truly changed over the past 2 years. All the formulations have been reconstituted to reduce ZDDP content to comply with the EPA laws that require extended cat life. This is NOT good for Porsche (or any other) engines over the long term and what was once OK, isn't anymore. Once things have settled a bit, I'll put some specific oil recommendations on my website. -=-=-=-=-=-=-end included bit-=-=-=- <<
  2. Sometimes, the driver's seat in my 02 makes a clunking sound when I shift my weight around. Is this common? What causes it, and is there a fix for it? TIA
  3. I get the same exact noise on both sides of my 02. It is louder on the passenger side. So, I would like to know what the cause is as well.
  4. Thanks for all the great insights, comments and suggestions! :D Excellent article - somehow I missed that one I was afraid to call the dealer to get an idea of installation cost, but did talk to two suspension shops in the area (Bagge in Culver City and Johnson Alignment in Torrance). Both looked up the book cost for the install and alignment, each said they could do it faster, and both said it would be a little over $600 including alignment. The most interesting comment from each was that they had more experience removing sport suspension setups than installing them, because most people find them too low and stiff for driving around here. The boss at Johnson recommended the Bilstein HD shocks instead of the stock Porsche ROW M030 ones. So far, that sounds like the most reasonable change from the stock Porsche ROW M030 setup I've heard. LemmyCaution - I know the streets around PdR are really bad (and getting worse!). How often do you bottom out on speed bumps, driveways, etc., and how much more noticeably harsher is the ride, compared to the stock suspension? Based on everyone's comments, it sounds like the ROW M030 setup is worthwhile for driving, but for housewives that bought a Boxster as a fashion accessory, it's way too much. If that is Steve Alercon's shop in torrance you are talking about, do what he says. He it the PCA/POC suspension guru widely recognized everywhere. He is a big time racer as well, which gives him hands-on insight to what setup he recommends. As far as personal experience, I have had my Carrera and 914 aligned by him. The difference, on Streets of Willow, was very noticeable and well worth it.
  5. Ok, before I pull the trigger, let me state the question in no uncertain terms. On my 02 Boxster base with factory 17" wheels, can I just upsize the fronts to 225/45-17 and leave the rears at 255/40-17 without any ill effects? If not, what sizes other than stock would be acceptable. Please elaborate on any sited ill effects. TIA
  6. Exactly to the point. Is a Boxster more likely to over- or understeer? In my short ownership experience, I have noticed a tendency to oversteer in turns, under aggressive power application. But that is different than properly setting up to enter and exit a turn at the highest speed. Also, if it turns out that a Boxster would benefit from more tire meat in the front, would 225's fit ok on stock 17" rims? TIA
  7. Looks like Nexen doesn't make a size 205/50-17 to go on the front of my 02 Boxster base. What would be a better alternative, 215/45-17 or 225/45-17? Or should I stick with the stock size and pick a different brand of tire?
  8. Once again, I agree. I have been burnt on bogus warranties in the past and hated it every time. But just to keep the discussion factual: My car, being a 2002, currently qualifies for the lower tier pricing because it's considered 4 or less model years old and has less than 50K miles. Once we roll into 2007, it will be considered as being 5 MYs old and no longer qualify.
  9. Some additional info: - The warranty plan is for 4 years from the date of purchase or 75,000 miles total, whichever comes first. The current mileage is 21,000. - As far as service records, all that has been done so far is 3 oil changes, and a new battery from Porsche. It still has the original continental tires from the factory. - At the time of purchase, the PO took the car to a reputable independent Porsche service center and paid for air and cabin filter changes. He also picked up the tab for the PPI. I went there while the car was still on the lift and the shop owner personally reviewed the entire car, over and under, with me. They also hooked up the PST2 and read the fault code history and the log for STRESS incidents. Stress incidents were at ZERO. Just to put thing is perspective, he said that they typically see 3 figures. He also said that a 911 twin turbo they had recently inspected had over 4000 incidents logged. - The only issue he pointed out was minute oil seepage from the engine tranny interface and the right side of the engine, which he thought was no more significant than what they see on all Boxsters. This car is in as new condition. If money wasn't a little tight at the moment, I would have bought the warranty as extra insurance. I am paying quite a bit more for comprehensive coverage as opposed to carrying just liability! Well, I guess I have one more month to decide. :(
  10. Mike, I agree with your perspective on extended warranties wholeheartedly; hence my statement in the original post, "- Generally speaking, I do not believe in extended warranties." However, with the most recent quote of $1,350 for MajorCare MBI over 4years/75,000 miles, that's roughly $1 a day for peace of mind. Given that exact figure, is that a good deal? I do agree that based on averages I will do better on my own. But, is a Boxster an average car to maintain? I am new to Boxsters and thought I should ask before making a decision, one way or the other. BTW, the warranty cost will just about double comes January 1st. Regards
  11. I should clarify my concern with DIY. In case I end up submitting a claim, would they raise an issue with me having done my own oil and filter changes, brake pad replacement, etc? In other words, would they try to deny a claim because I don't have maintenance receipts from repair shops? Of course, I will save my receipts for parts purchases.
  12. Would a company like Warranty Direct raise an issue with me doing my own routine maintenance?
  13. I have an 02 Boxster with 20K miles. I just got a quote from Warranty Direct for their basic coverage of 4 years/100KM, for ~$1850 with a $100 deductable. This is not their bumper-to-bumper plan! - I am mainly concerned with major engine/transmission failures in the future. - I have until year end 2006 to purchase this warranty. - I plan on doing all my own maintenance, and I am as good a DIY mechanic as can be reasonably expected (successful engine/tranny rebuilds under my belt). Is DIY a problem with extended warranty companies? - Generally speaking, I do not believe in extended warranties. - At this moment, money is tight but available. - But, this is a Boxster with potential for RMS leaks and engine replacements! Any caveats I should take into consideration prior to purchasing the extended warranty? Any and all input would be greatly appreciated. TIA
  14. you will probably be able to see the frayed part of the cable, buy maybe not. if you can see it, it will be at one of the areas where the cable enters its protective sleeve. good luck! I don't mean to hi-jack this thread, but I have a question for insite. I recently bought a mint 02 Boxster with 20KM. It is absolutely in as new condition with very little use. However, ever since I got it, I have noticed a snapping sound in the passenger side window when it reached either limit. If I don't actuate the window for some time, anything longer that an hour, then it makes the sound when it reaches the top or bottom limit. Then it won't make the sound upon further cycling until it remain idle for some time again. Can you think of what might be the cause of this? Should I get in there and investigate? Thanks
  15. Can you tell us how you got a soft pedal to begin with? Was it the result of any caliper work, or pad replacement?
  16. Thanks for the warm welcom. I see we share the same taste in cars:
  17. If you are getting an over the shoulder rattle, which becomes worse when the top is down, lubricate the door latch mechanisms. The sure sign for this problem is that the rattle gets worse when you put the top down, and the side window not being at the top position makes it even more pronounced. This rattle is very misleading in that one could swear that it is coming from inside the door. To fix it, do the following: 1) Using a clean rag, clean up the door latch mechanism the best you can. 2) Using a Q-tip, lightly apply Lithium based white grease all over the latch mechanism. 3) Drive and enjoy! I have a feeling that the above steps will have to be repeated every now and then. So, applying too much grease will make the following clean up step messier. Regards
  18. Hi Mick, Can you elaborate on what you mean exactly by "door latch", and how you go about lubricating it? What lubricant? I ask because, in some other posts people are refering to the door release handle by using the "door latch" phrase. Thanks Thanks, Mick. Yes, I didn't have much time to stick around. I layed out the course, made sure people weren't going to kill themselves on it, drove, and got out of there. :) I did successfully fix the squeak. It hasn't returned. I would have never guessed the shock mounts would make that noise, but I had checked everything else - door latches, all the top joints, the clamshell sliders, the tensioning cables, swaybar frame bushings and endlinks... I even stripped the entire trunk looking for the noise! Yes, I have problems. <_< Now if only I could find a reasonbly priced set of 18" wheels I'd be all set for next season! :P
  19. The passenger side window makes a pretty noticeable snapping sound when it reaches the top or the bottom positions. What could be the cause of this? Also, are Boxster doors prone to rattles? I hear a rattle when I shut the driver side door. Is this because of something loose inside the door, or is it more likely related to the top mechanism? TIA
  20. I am referring to the pair of cables that hold down the back part of the soft top while in the up position. These have sockets on each end that pop onto ball joints. There is an article saying that if these cables aren't tensioned properly, a "loose change" sound can be heard from behind the drivers shoulder. Is the "loose change" sound caused by this heard with the top up, down, or both? Just how tight should one set the tension? With the top up, I can fold the seat backs forward, reach through the roll hoops, and feel the tension in these cables. I currently have about 1/8" slack or play in the cables. Am I supposed to turn the adjustment screws (clockwise?) until all of the play is gone? My problem is that I hear the loose change sound with the top in the up or down position. It kind of feels like it is coming from inside the driver's door, but I really don't want to be reinventing the wheel here. If the cables are supposed to be tight, I will try that first. Thanks PS, if this turns out not to be related to any adjustments, what are all the lubrications points?
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