Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Scouser

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    539
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by Scouser

  1. There's one other thing to try. I had this exact problem and located it to a connector being corroded. The connecter is the one behind the right rear light cluster. It should be clipped to the internal bodywork. You have to look hard behind the hinge that holds the engine bay door up. I pulled the connector, cleaned it and reconnected it. It all worked fine and has done since.
  2. I always get confused with this term "lugs". Are you referring to the wheel bolts? I thought Wheel lugs were only on earlier cars.
  3. Sheesh! I must say you have guts posting that. Nothing will get it off. Sorry but sounds like a new instrument cluster is the only way. Not sure if you can even replace individual pieces of it. Luckily they go quite cheap on ebay.
  4. This may help you: http://ljgs.org/.ceemee/pcar/Scouser/diy/tailsw/index.HTML
  5. Scouser.....Did you end up receiving my VIN [Aussie 996 ROW C2]? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yup thanks. I did reply to your PM. It should all be working now for you. Let me know if it doesn't. Sadly your VIN is the only Aussie one I have been given to test with. Cheers,
  6. Porsche 911 RISC Chip This is the original mask for the 1982 Berkeley Reduced Instruction Set Computer II (RISC II) chip. They used the philosophy of the 911: lightweight, fast, small, optimize what you need and don't add anything extra. This design evolved into the Sun Microsystems Inc. SPARC CPU and was later recognized as one of the most important computer designs by the IEEE Computer Architecture SIG because it has influenced every CPU designed up to date. And yes.....I work for Sun Microsystems
  7. The reason I am fearly certain it is timed is because at one time I intended to purchase a Bahntech unit and contacted them. I was heading out to CA and intended to pick it up. Anyway, the guy at Bahntech asked me to time how long it took my hood to open and close with the engine running. He then said to report this data back to him so that he could program the unit and have it ready for me. I agree that it's probably better to spend the $100 and buy the unit. But I am a bit of an electronics geek so the idea of a little project tickles my fancy ;)
  8. Cheers Loren. I guess getting the meter out is the next move.
  9. I have looked into this in a lot of detail. It is not simply a relay. You need an electronic timer (probably using a LM555 or something similar) to close the relay. And the timer would have to be adjustable or preset when made. This is probably why BahnTech ask you to specify the time it takes in seconds to put your hood up. There are also timeout and connection send sensors required for when the operation completes of if it fails. Basically you need a switch triggered interlocked monostable timer that is triggered when you push the switch, holds until the top opens/closes, then times out when detecting a current release as the operation completes. The interlock circuit uses two LM555 timers, one for the open and one for the close operation. Each car's hood will open/close at different times (even microseconds difference) so both timers will have to be variable via their threshhold circuitry (pin 6 on the timer). The interlocked cicuitry is also used so that each timer can be safly interrupted. I.e., you click the switch then would also want to be able to click it again to stop/pause the operation...or even reverse it. As you can see it isn't as simple as just a relay. As I said I will work on this some day...... Still having said that I have put a cuircit diag together but just haven't got around to impementing it yet.
  10. All of a sudden.... I get a single beep when I lock the car (key or fob) and the led on the dash flashes twice instead of once periodically. Checked the obvious: boot, bonnet, arm rest, fuses etc. What have I forgot? Any ideas?
  11. This subject has been beaten to death so many times on all Pcar forums. I have a fabspeed system. Guess which one I like best? There is only ONE way to figure it out. Go listen to them in real life on real cars and make your own judgment. Listening to audio clips won't do any of them justice and everyone will be biased to what they have fitted. There are pros/cons on both systems you mention. Some you haven't mentioned like the fabspeed costs less than half the price but the PSE has factory warranty and so on. Then there are a bunch of other aftermarket systems: techart, GHL, Mile Miglia, Carcraft...... IMHO, I think they all sound good but in different ways. You just have to choose which one suuits your taste. The only way is to hear them.
  12. There was a speed yellow CGT at the PCGB Festival at Brands Hatch and the owner took it on the Indy track. He was supposed to do 5 laps but he near lost it on the 3rd lap coming round Druid's Bend and down Graham Hill so I guess he chickened out and headed for the pits :clapping: Click here to see the vid I took. (48MB) It's a pity that the guy yappin on about free helicopter rides never shuts up as you would have heard the gorgious sound of that CGT engine.
  13. Cheers John. Have a few US VINs now but no RoW ones so look forward to your post. Thanks
  14. Hi folks, If one of you kind and lucky persons happen to come face to face with a 997 could you please jot down its VIN number and PM or email it to me so that I can update my VIN decoder http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...ode=vin_decoder Oh and I need to no what model it is too. Many thanks,
  15. Hi Loren my choices are 356, 914, 964 & 993 but to be honest I think you should cover them all even if there isn't a lot of traffic in them. If they exist then it invites registration. If I came here with a 914 and didn't find it then I would likely walk away. Just my 0.02p worth.
  16. Loren, I tried to find this TSB that Poursha is talking about but could not see it. Any chance you could send me a copy. Cheers mate,
  17. :clapping: No it was OK, Porsche were there handing out free oil drip trays ;) By the way, I can't wait to get hold of my 5th RMS seal when it's replaced so that I can hang it on the wall with the others. After all it is an Olympic year :rolleyes:
  18. Here's a taster of some of the cars I met at the Festival
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.