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Scouser

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Everything posted by Scouser

  1. Scouser
    Gorgious ride. Are they cargraphic tips?
  2. Scouser
    If by any tiny itsy bitsy weeny chance you own one of these baby's or have access to one, I need its VIN number to test out my VIN Decoder. (see link to it at top of page.). If your willing to PM me with it I would be most grateful. Utmost discretion guaranteed of course! This is a serious request, no idiot postings please. Many thanks in advance
  3. Scouser
    There is only one strut. On the right hand side.
  4. Scouser
    Looking back once is not enough. At least 6 or 7 times. When I open my garage door I always say "hello baby" and the hairs stand up on my back.
  5. Scouser
    Thanks Jeff for the pics and info. I have my buddy looking into making me the engine mount jig and we are looking into modifying an ajustable acro bar for the engine jack. One question: how heavy do you reckon the tranny is? two people can lift it?
  6. Scouser
    Do you mean the single bolt that goes round the circular clasp to mount the tips onto the end of the manifold pipes? If so, it's a real challenge. Not much room but it can be done using nothing more than a spanner.....er sorry....wrench. You need to get the back of the car up high on jacks to get to the bolts. Ensure the tips are not touching the bumper.
  7. Scouser
    Nice one Poursha! post a pic (of course ;) ) It's not often you get to deal with real nice people and companies. I contacted XenonMods to tell them that their online order form didn't take into account international postage and to go ahead and add a couple of bucks to cover it. They emailed me back to say no way would they do that. Free shipping applies to everyone no matter where they are. A few days later my decals turned up in the post and postage was not charged. Wouldn't it be a real nice world if everyone was as generous as this.
  8. Scouser
    Proud to be a member!
  9. Scouser
    Brilliant Loren. Thanks. My budy has a metal fabrication plant. I will ask him what he thinks about making this brace. Looks easy enough. As it happens I do have a pit but it was filled in by the previous owner and not very well too. I have often thought about cleaning it out. If I am going to keep this car for the long haul I am starting to think I will have to get serious about DIY. Anyway i will think on it. Many thanks again.
  10. Scouser
    Thanks heaps Loren. Some more questions: This tool 9624/1, can this part be ordered. I.e., joe blow can just walk in and order it? Also I have visions of this being some sort of large scisor jack. Is it a large expensive device? DOn't suppose you have any pics of it. The transmission jack, again is this a standard jack? But what is the fixing strap you mention in item 10? Sounds like it too is a special jack. Finally, I take it that these instructions assume the car is up in the air on a hydraulic lift? Or can this be done by taking the car up high on jack stands? It sounds to me that the most precarious part is ensuring the engine is supported correctly and in the right place. Lowering the gearbox may be a dangerous task too. I guess the big question is, is it really doable as a DIY project?
  11. Scouser
    It's probably a none-starter question but.... Iv'e done it on several cars before but never a 996. But how hard is it to remove and replace the gearbox. Jeff, have you ever done this or seen it been done as a DIY project?
  12. Scouser
    Thanks Jeff for spotting it and Loren for the typo fix. I'll fix the source ;) Jeff, your right about the numbering scheme. Actually most of the cars have strange numbering schemes and they don't all start at 0. I have a good source of info for 964 and 993s in regards to their sequence numbers. I plan to update the VIN decoder with additional info when I can source similar info on other cars. Here's an interesting link. Be aware that it is not ENglish (Swahili or something.....actually Japanese I think). But there are two tables on it. The second table 5th column show the sequence numbers for model type. The last column in the 1st table show the total number of cars manufactured for that model. Interesting stuff. Now if only I could find a similar link for other cars ;) http://www33.tok2.com/home/kero993/pro993f.htm
  13. Scouser
    Yup. Sure is.
  14. Scouser
    That realy gets my back up. Malicious idiots. The main thing is to get a really good and recommended body shop. They will know what to do best. I don't think there is any corners to cut in that respect. Best of luck with it.
  15. Scouser
    This is how it works. The tail auto raises at 74 MPH and goes down aagin at 38 MPH. If you use the footwell switch (or an in dash mod tail switch) to raise the tail it will stay up all the time. However if you turn the ignition off and remove the key, then put the key back in and restart the car, the tail will stay up until the OBC realises you are coming down from speed of "any" kind past 38 MPH and you then hit that 38MPH. So in otherwords, if you start your car, the tail up. Then drive it to say 50 MPH, the tail stays up. But when you slow down again and it hits 38 MPH, it will auto retract. You can bypass the auto retrac by immediatly pressing the up-tail switch when you start your car regardless if it is already up. If you do that then the tail stays up......until you restart your car.....and so it goes on..... Notice that to put the tail down you have to hold the switch in. Wheras to lift the tail only requires a momentary switch. I would love to find a hack that fixes this. I hate holding the switch in. Us poses, I dunno ;-)
  16. Scouser
    Hmmm.... if that last post reads weird its because half my posting got wasted when I hit the add reply button. Loren help ? What you don't read is that I have a switch here and I metered it. There are two LEDS. The anode of both are the outer pins. You will need to isolate the LEDS internally from the integral switch. This means opening it up and moding it. It won't work otherwise.
  17. Scouser
    Sorry mate I sent you up the creek without a paddle. I thought you just wanted to know how to tap off the light circuit. I didn't realise that what you really want is to know, given the light cuircuit tap, how to connect it to the FWL swtch so that it lights when you put your lights on. My guess is that the light in the FWL swtch is an LED. If so should simply be a matter of getting the anode/cathode correctly wired. It will only work one way and not the other. In the end you will have the 5 pins on the back of the switch and a wire hanging out. The two outer pins are for both LEDS +ve. The wire is for the LEDS -ve. But this is wher it gets even more complicated because you will need to put a diode/resistor in the +ve circuit (probably IN914 diode and a 10k resistor). I will try to draw the diag/pic for you in powerpoint. Will put it here tommorow for you. My question is why would you want your FWL switch light to light up when your lights are on? One LED is for behind the diagram on the switch. If wired correctly, it should light up like the other switches when you put your lights on. The other LED is is the amer LED you see on the switch itself. Normally this comes on to signify that whatever the switch operates is up and running. Cheers,
  18. Scouser
    Hey LVDell Go to item 12 in my instructions ;) http://ljgs.org/.ceemee/pcar/Scouser/diy/tailsw/index.HTML
  19. Scouser
    Well said! One day I hope to meet Loren. I owe him several beers not just for his indefatigable help and unfailing dedication to us porker owners but also for putting up this stupendous web site that all others should aspire towards. I would also like to meet Don from Capecod but i guess Florida might be a bit unrealistic for a business expense from the UK :) Still I would just love to eyeball his now famous Misty in the flesh. Finally, there's one other important contributor not yet mentioned. Jeff/Tool Pants of course! He must be the only guy I know who would strip his own porker down just for the sake of others. :cheers:
  20. Scouser
    Jeff, I can honestly, hand on heart, certify that what Matt said in that comment is true because its almost word for word how I would explain my dealings with Porsche UK customer services. They don't seem to think that the 996 RMS problem is an issue here in the UK. They make out like "we never heard of it". But when I go to tech9 (a good independent) they said that it's one of their main lines of business for out of warranty 996's. Furthermore, today when I took my car in to have its 5th RMS done, there was a chap behind me waiting in the queue to be seen. He was booking in for an RMS too. Apparently his 2nd. So it seems clear to me that Porsche are in total denial of this RMS problem.
  21. Scouser
    Gee Poursha I am so reluctant to replying to your posting cos it gets me so damned mad and annoyed at Porsche.......and tommorow my 996 goes in for yes, you guessed it folks....its 5th RMS! But 7k miles is just plain not on. If it was me I would take it right back and demand a refund or a replacement new car. (You can do that here in the UK). I would then send a letter to Porsche that said something along the lines of "get your act together Porsche else you will lose customers". That's it I am going to bed......I am real pissed.
  22. Scouser
    Matt, I just realized you are in the UK. The supressor is from Halfords. I think it was about £10. email/PM me and I send you my phone number. Cheers, Berny
  23. Scouser
    Matt, I don't have a diagram but I will try to explain more clearly: When you chop the head off the charger, you will see various shielding cables and some coloured wires. The wires you will use in the cable are Black, Red, Green, Yellow. The White (opaque) wire can be chopped as it is not used. Tie all the shielding cables together with the black wire. These collectively become the ground wire. The red is connected to your car's 12v ignition switched wire. Note that you MUST put an inline fuse between the this wire and the 12v ignition switched wire. In my setup I also connect these two wires: ground (black with shielding) and the red (12v switched & fused), to an isolating supressor. This is not required but it will stop a hell of a lot of engine noise. Finally the Green wire is the audio signal wire for the LEFT channel. Similarly, the Yellow is the RIGHT channel. Use the Green and yellow cables together with a spur from the ground cable descibed above to connect to two female RCA plugs. This then plugs into the Kenwood C1-C1AX cable which you must aquire. Hope this helps. Any problems, email or PM me. Cheers, Berny
  24. Scouser
    Oh my gawd! Your a lawyer?........... :o
  25. Scouser
    How very strange. Here in the UK, the motion detector, imobiliser and the alarm are all turned on when the car is locked with the key fob. At least it is in my car. This is true regardless of the tops up or down position. Oh yes, and the key fob also allows us to put the top up or down remotely too. Why do you guys in the states always have to break everything ;)
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