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Alienz

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Everything posted by Alienz

  1. This is a scam and it is not the first one. This poor guy lost $55k http://msnbc.msn.com/id/3078503/
  2. This could either be a typo in the price or a catch! http://autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=1...or=&cardist=279
  3. I use Blizzaks and they are awesome but expensive. Even with good snow tires you'll have to drive carefully in heavy snow fall. I remember I couldn't go up a steep hill once, the tires kept spining. Overall it's ok to drive in the snow. It's also good to have a beater for those horrible days, I have a 93 Cherokee.
  4. Thanks! My friend talked to a Porsche mechanic in Albany, NY and here is what he told him: they've had a lot of problems with the early tops because of the cable problem and software (?) that regulates the top motor. He siad that most dealers don't want to mess with the old-style top which is why they charge $2k to replace everything. He'd seen the problem we're discussing before and that's what he suggested: buy a spring and some appoxy, measure the distance the top compartment travels when the motor lever is pushed down. Cut the spring the same length as that distance then attach it to the compartment. This will takecare of it. He said that he'd done this before on other Boxsters outside the dealerships. Hope this helps.
  5. I think the motor is bad on your and my car. All the timing is perfect, the top comes down and goes up so there is no reason for this poping sound unless one of the components is broken. Maybe the switch in the motor is busted. I'll try working on it today and see what I come up with.
  6. **** it! One plastic piece broke again (driver's sode). Man I'm getting sick of this. If they sold this plastic piece seperately I would buy a 100 of them. The only one I could find is the metal one.
  7. I have the same problem. I actually spent 4 hours today trying to fix the problem. I put the top in the service position and ran the cycle, i heard the poping from both sides. The reason you hear the noise is because when the transmission comes to the end of the cycle there are no more teeth so you hear the snap back because the strut pulls it back. I think I know what's wrong, it is not the transmissions, it's the motor. The motor is not stopping where it is supposed to. It keeps going for few more seconds before it stops and the top light goes out. That's the only explanation I could come up with. Sometimes my top goes a bit crazy (because one of the cables comes out) the the plastic pieceon the rod breaks. Two plastic pieces have broke so far (one today) on the passenger side. There is also something weird that happens towards the end of the cycle, when the button on the motor is pressed, I stop pressing the convt top button then press it again and when I do this the top compartment goes up a little bit then comes back down. Does anyone know the purpose of that button on the motor?
  8. Clearance is a big issue! We had to shorten an allen key by cutting off the long part and still it was too hard to get the job done. You just need some patient to change the plugs.
  9. phew! Thank god the check engine light is gone. My friend thinks that the computer got used to the old bad plugs so when I put the new ones it adjusted itswelf to them.
  10. I got the wheel off, it was stuck a bit. I replaced the spark plugs and everything is running excellent! There is one more thing, the "check engine" light came on. I don't think I did anything wrong because the car now idles much better. Any ideas?
  11. One more thing, how many plugs can you change from one side?
  12. You are changing the plugs in a rainy day, same here :) . One more question, I'm having trouble removing the wheel. I removed all the lug bolts but the wheel still won't come out. Do I have to unscrew the big nut in the center?
  13. DOes anyone have a picture of the location of the spark plugs? I heard you can access them from under the car but you have to take off some plate first.
  14. You might be right about the battery 1surfer. I was fixing my top last week and I used a lot of the battery while the car wasn't running. But the green light comes on when I press the cruise control button.
  15. For some reason my cruise control is not working anymore. I remember the last time I used it was in January. I was on the highway yesterday, clicked it on and pushed it forward but nothing happened. Any thoughts? Jacob
  16. A guy posted sometime ago about this topic. He managed to replace his tonneau by himself. He said he would do it for others for ( I think) $1,500. No details nor instructions. Maybe you wanna go to your dealership and ask the mechanic about it. He might tell you enough info to get you started atlest then you'll probably figure the rest out by yourself.
  17. I didn't inspect them but they look fine to me. When I put the top down, the transmissions strech the strutsand seal the top compartment properly. But when I put the top back up, the trans' try to pull the struts down to seal the compartment but then I hear this pop and the V-lever snapping back once or twice, sometimes three times before the cycle ends. We think that there are no enough teeth at the end of the cycle which can explain why it snaps back. How do I give it more teeth?
  18. After 6 hours of installing the newer transmissions and motor (from a 1998) and timing it, I finally got my to fixed! The timing was the hardest part. I don't know how to do it but my friend has mastered it, he can do it in less than 5 mins. BUt there is one problem (I'm not sure if it's even a promlem). When I put the top, every thing works perfect. But when I go up I hear some weird noises, sometimes 3 pops others are 2. I put the top in service position and observed the transmissions on their way down, after they reach the end they go further streching the strut. But then after about an inch of streching, the RV lever snaps back a tooth (on both sides one after another) then the mechanism stops. I figure this can damage the teeth in the transmissions on the long run. Any ideas why this is happening? Is it not timed right?
  19. I've been driving stick for a long time, I just don't know how to drive "fast". Obviously that's a lesson I should learn from.
  20. It looks like it's the clutch according to the mechanic I spoke with today. He will do it for $450 if I bring the assembly. Now I need to find a good clutch. I don't want a heavy duty one, but a really light one on my foot. I think one of the reasons the clutch is gone was leaving my foot on the clutch after not completely releasing it. I noticed sometimes the weight of my foot presses the clutch maybe a quarter of an inch or so but I couldn't feel all the time and thought it wasn't a big deal. Do you guys recommend a steel or a rubber clutch? I don't know the difference.
  21. Tonight I was driving the crap out of my car. All of a sudden I smell this horrible smell! Few minutes later, The car wouldn't respond to the clutch! I could shift but it was just like I was on neutral! I can't imagine the clutch would just go away all of a sudden. I never drive my car this hard. I only do drive it hard very rarely and this was the first time! The RPM didn't even reach the red zone! Some guy told me it could be the slave cylinder or something I don't know! Any ideas?
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