grahamtwatson

I managed to get the V6 Durametrics software to work without crashing last night, and sure enough, it showed much more sensible numbers for RKAT 2. Latest set showed RKAT1 at ~ 0, RKAT2 at ~ 0.42 If you are having trouble with the V6 software, what worked for me was to STOP collection, select all the values I wanted to monitor, then START collection again. If I didn't do that, it would lock up on me between 3 and 6 selections in...

PM sent - many thanks! It's not a new problem, it's been happening for a few months at least, but it's so marginal I've never been really sure if it 's there or not. Key issues I see are: Occasional "Kangarooing" when cold - first 30 seconds or so - almost as if the ignition is turned off for a fraction of a second. Only when cold. Occasional hesitation when at low revs and slight throttle openings - usually hard to detect, somewhat like a more subtle version of the above. Seems to run a little better during the first 20 miles or so after having the battery disconnected (could be my imagination). Graham

I took of the oil filler cap and let the engine idle, although only for about 10 mins. RKAT went to 3, then over the next ten minutes went to 2 then 1. Note that these were ALWAYS whole numbers. In case this turns out to be an actual fault on the car, can anyone tell me what sensors drive RKAT? Is it just the O2 Sensors on that bank, or is there something else involved? Is there another set of readings I should be investigating? Thanks Graham

They did update it - yesterday! It's now 6.0.3.1, and they seem to have expunged any references to 6.0.2.1... I'll try 6.0.3.1 and see if that's more reliable and if it reports different values. I'm surprised they said they no longer supported V5 - according to their web site V5 is the *current* version, V6 is only a beta.

Thanks everyone! I have noticed that the car seems to perform better during adaptation after the battery has been disconnected, and that the mpg is definitely better - but I put that down to imagination (performance) and the algorithm used (mpg). I'll try disconnecting the battery and resetting, then watching the numbers again. No fault codes. That's what's really confusing me. The only work that has been done that could be at all relevant is the AOS was replaced a year or so ago, Only aftermarket parts fitted are equal length headers. I'm not sure how long the underlying low throttle hesitation has been going on, as its always been one of those "is there something odd or not?" not quite issues... I just noticed the wacky readings this week. Interesting about the Durametric bug - I've got an email in to support@durametric.com - I'll see what they say. I tried v6, but it seems VERY unstable at the moment. PTEC - why do you say my Bank 1 numbers are screaming bad MAF? What should I be looking at in them to see this? Again, Thanks for all the help! Graham

I've been getting some low rpm / low throttle hesitation for a while, and also occasional hesitation when cold for a while now, so I hooked up Durametric yesterday . Everything looked OK (to my untrained eye) except for Adaptation range 1 (RKAT), Bank 2. For the first eleven minutes from cold start it was stuck at 0, then suddenly went to 3072 (yes, three THOUSAND and seventy two!). It then stuck at 3072 for the rest of the journey. This morning it started at 3072 from cold, and stayed there. Does anyone have any ideas as to what is going on here, and/or suggestions on what to look at next? http://cid-9cc79f8e5e593d53.office.live.com/embedphoto.aspx/Public/ECU.png http://cid-9cc79f8e5e593d53.office.live.com/embedphoto.aspx/Public/Dura1.png http://cid-9cc79f8e5e593d53.office.live.com/embedphoto.aspx/Public/Dura2.png

Does anyone have any thoughts on replacing motor or transmission mounts at the same time as the clutch? My '02 996 Cab has a clutch which is on it's way out - at the least there is probably a warped flywheel. The car is quite drivable, the only real symptom is that if I'm gentle from a start and keep the revs low, there is a strong judder - especially when the car is colder or I'm in reverse. The judder can be quite forceful though, occasionally it almost feels as if the engine is about to bounce out of the car :-( Do you think that my not getting round to fixing this for over a year now may have damaged one or more of the mounts? Is there a reliable way to test them? Should I fix the clutch and see if everything is then good, or does it make more sense to replace the mounts at the same time? Come to that, which mounts - engine, transmission, both? Sorry for all the questions - thought I'd get everything out at once :-) Graham

I'm in a similar place - very similar readings. In my case I've got 12.4v at the battery engine off, 12.8v engine on. This seems way too low - I believe it should be in the region of 13.8v engine running. Recharging using a battery charger overnight got the voltage up to 12.8v engine off, but after driving in to work today it's again a little lower. I'm going to take my car down to Schucks tonight (or O'Reilly as they are now). They can test both the battery and the alternator on the car and find many problems. By the way, I've got one of these - http://www.duracellp...erpack-300.aspx - it's saved me having to bump-start a couple of times. It must be battery season - I've just replaced the battery on my daughters car, my son has just replaced both battery and alternator on his...

Oh come on - you can't leave it there.... Why doesn't your Carrera like Mobil 1? How does it complain? What's the difference when you use Castrol? What weight oil? How many miles have you done? What shoe size are you :unsure:

Thanks - yes, I checked all the rollers, seemed to be fine. I haven't tried running it with the serpentine belt off, which I suppose I could do for a few minutes from cold. I just realised that the noise seems to be related to engine speed, which makes it less likely it's an electric fan.

I'm getting really frustrated with this :( - and somewhat poorer! Is anyone a Porsche A/C expert who can give me some advice? I've got a 2002 996 C2 Cab, and there is a quite loud noise which sounds as if there is a bearing screeching coming from ... somewhere. It only happens when the air conditioning is on, I can start or stop the noise to order with the A/C switch. From inside the cab it sounds like it's coming from the engine compartment, but you can't really hear it well enough to locate the source when you open the engine bay. From outside the car it's much less noticable, and I've been unable to track it down for certain. It did seem as if when the compressor clutch was engaged there was the noise, when it wasn't, there wasn't. I've just replaced the A/C compressor and the expansion valve (as well as the dryer bottle as I cracked the system). Recharged the system and everything is exactly as before - A/C still works fine etc. but the noise is still there :censored: . Can anyone think what else might be causing this? I'm now assuming that there is some other component which is making this noise and transmitting it through the A/C pipework, but whatever it is has to be something that only happens when the A/C is turned on (i.e. the little A/C symbol is lit on the control panel - it doesn't happen if the system is on without the A/C itself). The only other thing I can think of is that looking at the workshop manual there a fan attached to the condenser. Does this ONLY come on when the A/C is on, not when the cabin air blower is on? If this could be my problem, the manual says to access it by removing the front wheel, liner and wing support, but it doesn't say which side - unless there are two condensers, one in each wing? Many thanks! Graham

Thanks everyone - some really great advice here, it's vey much appreciated!

2002 996 C2 Cab, 40,000 miles. I hope it's OK to tag this on the thread - seems to fit .... My clutch probably needs replacing soon - light judder at first engagement and it's possible to spin the clutch if I make too aggressive a change with lots of power. I'm going to do this myself, I've got the garage space and a beater Suburban just in case, although no hoist or pit. Is it ever possible to reface the flywheel or is replacement the only option ever? Any recommendations as to parts other than OEM? (This is a daily driver, never raced) Is there a particularly good set of instructions anyone can point me to, especially with the little "I could have saved three hours and several ounces of blood if I'd only known that...." tips and tricks? I assume you drop the engine and gearbox and then split, or can you split without disturbing the engine? My RMS is fine, as far as I know. Any compelling reason to change it anyway whilst I'm in there? Anything else I should do or inspect whilst I'm doing this job? Thanks guys!

item no 230342113640 on ebay.co.uk, seller is partsdome (99.6%/6406 pos feedback) Got one! Thanks mate - you just saved me a lot of money!

Thanks for the prompt answer Loren, I thought it would be ok but thought I'd best ask first. Cheers mate. Ordered one at a very reasonable £76.46 incl delivery ($116) $116... Wow! Can you provide me with any more info on the seller please - I couldn't find it on eBay.