Jump to content

Server Lease Renewal/Software Licenses

Our yearly server lease, software licenses, as well as hardware operating costs, ARE due Dec 6th, 2021. Our current donations have fallen far short of the funds we need to renew. Please remember the RennTech.org community is Member supported so please consider a donation to help...  THANK YOU!

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

grahamtwatson

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    40
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by grahamtwatson

  1. I managed to get the V6 Durametrics software to work without crashing last night, and sure enough, it showed much more sensible numbers for RKAT 2. Latest set showed RKAT1 at ~ 0, RKAT2 at ~ 0.42 If you are having trouble with the V6 software, what worked for me was to STOP collection, select all the values I wanted to monitor, then START collection again. If I didn't do that, it would lock up on me between 3 and 6 selections in...
  2. PM sent - many thanks! It's not a new problem, it's been happening for a few months at least, but it's so marginal I've never been really sure if it 's there or not. Key issues I see are: Occasional "Kangarooing" when cold - first 30 seconds or so - almost as if the ignition is turned off for a fraction of a second. Only when cold. Occasional hesitation when at low revs and slight throttle openings - usually hard to detect, somewhat like a more subtle version of the above. Seems to run a little better during the first 20 miles or so after having the battery disconnected (could be my imagination). Graham
  3. I took of the oil filler cap and let the engine idle, although only for about 10 mins. RKAT went to 3, then over the next ten minutes went to 2 then 1. Note that these were ALWAYS whole numbers. In case this turns out to be an actual fault on the car, can anyone tell me what sensors drive RKAT? Is it just the O2 Sensors on that bank, or is there something else involved? Is there another set of readings I should be investigating? Thanks Graham
  4. They did update it - yesterday! It's now 6.0.3.1, and they seem to have expunged any references to 6.0.2.1... I'll try 6.0.3.1 and see if that's more reliable and if it reports different values. I'm surprised they said they no longer supported V5 - according to their web site V5 is the *current* version, V6 is only a beta.
  5. Thanks everyone! I have noticed that the car seems to perform better during adaptation after the battery has been disconnected, and that the mpg is definitely better - but I put that down to imagination (performance) and the algorithm used (mpg). I'll try disconnecting the battery and resetting, then watching the numbers again. No fault codes. That's what's really confusing me. The only work that has been done that could be at all relevant is the AOS was replaced a year or so ago, Only aftermarket parts fitted are equal length headers. I'm not sure how long the underlying low throttle hesitation has been going on, as its always been one of those "is there something odd or not?" not quite issues... I just noticed the wacky readings this week. Interesting about the Durametric bug - I've got an email in to support@durametric.com - I'll see what they say. I tried v6, but it seems VERY unstable at the moment. PTEC - why do you say my Bank 1 numbers are screaming bad MAF? What should I be looking at in them to see this? Again, Thanks for all the help! Graham
  6. I've been getting some low rpm / low throttle hesitation for a while, and also occasional hesitation when cold for a while now, so I hooked up Durametric yesterday . Everything looked OK (to my untrained eye) except for Adaptation range 1 (RKAT), Bank 2. For the first eleven minutes from cold start it was stuck at 0, then suddenly went to 3072 (yes, three THOUSAND and seventy two!). It then stuck at 3072 for the rest of the journey. This morning it started at 3072 from cold, and stayed there. Does anyone have any ideas as to what is going on here, and/or suggestions on what to look at next? http://cid-9cc79f8e5e593d53.office.live.com/embedphoto.aspx/Public/ECU.png http://cid-9cc79f8e5e593d53.office.live.com/embedphoto.aspx/Public/Dura1.png http://cid-9cc79f8e5e593d53.office.live.com/embedphoto.aspx/Public/Dura2.png
  7. Does anyone have any thoughts on replacing motor or transmission mounts at the same time as the clutch? My '02 996 Cab has a clutch which is on it's way out - at the least there is probably a warped flywheel. The car is quite drivable, the only real symptom is that if I'm gentle from a start and keep the revs low, there is a strong judder - especially when the car is colder or I'm in reverse. The judder can be quite forceful though, occasionally it almost feels as if the engine is about to bounce out of the car :-( Do you think that my not getting round to fixing this for over a year now may have damaged one or more of the mounts? Is there a reliable way to test them? Should I fix the clutch and see if everything is then good, or does it make more sense to replace the mounts at the same time? Come to that, which mounts - engine, transmission, both? Sorry for all the questions - thought I'd get everything out at once :-) Graham
  8. I'm in a similar place - very similar readings. In my case I've got 12.4v at the battery engine off, 12.8v engine on. This seems way too low - I believe it should be in the region of 13.8v engine running. Recharging using a battery charger overnight got the voltage up to 12.8v engine off, but after driving in to work today it's again a little lower. I'm going to take my car down to Schucks tonight (or O'Reilly as they are now). They can test both the battery and the alternator on the car and find many problems. By the way, I've got one of these - http://www.duracellp...erpack-300.aspx - it's saved me having to bump-start a couple of times. It must be battery season - I've just replaced the battery on my daughters car, my son has just replaced both battery and alternator on his...
  9. Oh come on - you can't leave it there.... Why doesn't your Carrera like Mobil 1? How does it complain? What's the difference when you use Castrol? What weight oil? How many miles have you done? What shoe size are you :unsure:
  10. Thanks - yes, I checked all the rollers, seemed to be fine. I haven't tried running it with the serpentine belt off, which I suppose I could do for a few minutes from cold. I just realised that the noise seems to be related to engine speed, which makes it less likely it's an electric fan.
  11. I'm getting really frustrated with this :( - and somewhat poorer! Is anyone a Porsche A/C expert who can give me some advice? I've got a 2002 996 C2 Cab, and there is a quite loud noise which sounds as if there is a bearing screeching coming from ... somewhere. It only happens when the air conditioning is on, I can start or stop the noise to order with the A/C switch. From inside the cab it sounds like it's coming from the engine compartment, but you can't really hear it well enough to locate the source when you open the engine bay. From outside the car it's much less noticable, and I've been unable to track it down for certain. It did seem as if when the compressor clutch was engaged there was the noise, when it wasn't, there wasn't. I've just replaced the A/C compressor and the expansion valve (as well as the dryer bottle as I cracked the system). Recharged the system and everything is exactly as before - A/C still works fine etc. but the noise is still there :censored: . Can anyone think what else might be causing this? I'm now assuming that there is some other component which is making this noise and transmitting it through the A/C pipework, but whatever it is has to be something that only happens when the A/C is turned on (i.e. the little A/C symbol is lit on the control panel - it doesn't happen if the system is on without the A/C itself). The only other thing I can think of is that looking at the workshop manual there a fan attached to the condenser. Does this ONLY come on when the A/C is on, not when the cabin air blower is on? If this could be my problem, the manual says to access it by removing the front wheel, liner and wing support, but it doesn't say which side - unless there are two condensers, one in each wing? Many thanks! Graham
  12. Thanks everyone - some really great advice here, it's vey much appreciated!
  13. 2002 996 C2 Cab, 40,000 miles. I hope it's OK to tag this on the thread - seems to fit .... My clutch probably needs replacing soon - light judder at first engagement and it's possible to spin the clutch if I make too aggressive a change with lots of power. I'm going to do this myself, I've got the garage space and a beater Suburban just in case, although no hoist or pit. Is it ever possible to reface the flywheel or is replacement the only option ever? Any recommendations as to parts other than OEM? (This is a daily driver, never raced) Is there a particularly good set of instructions anyone can point me to, especially with the little "I could have saved three hours and several ounces of blood if I'd only known that...." tips and tricks? I assume you drop the engine and gearbox and then split, or can you split without disturbing the engine? My RMS is fine, as far as I know. Any compelling reason to change it anyway whilst I'm in there? Anything else I should do or inspect whilst I'm doing this job? Thanks guys!
  14. item no 230342113640 on ebay.co.uk, seller is partsdome (99.6%/6406 pos feedback) Got one! Thanks mate - you just saved me a lot of money!
  15. Thanks for the prompt answer Loren, I thought it would be ok but thought I'd best ask first. Cheers mate. Ordered one at a very reasonable £76.46 incl delivery ($116) $116... Wow! Can you provide me with any more info on the seller please - I couldn't find it on eBay.
  16. Thanks Loren - I just ordered the OBD-2.com software (I've got vehicles OTHER than Porches :P ) but I'm guessing all that will really do is confirm my voltage readings, not tell me if they are in or out of spec.. Will the Durametric do that?
  17. I've got a minor stumble at time when gently getting on the gas at low revs - it's not constant, it's not throwing up any codes, and it's not enough to throw money at either - I can live with it, but it's annoying... I think it may be the MAF, but I'm guessing in all honesty. I've cleaned it thorougly, and the car does seem a little better for a shiny clean MAF in general, but it didn't affect the stumble. I've cleaned the throttle body, including removing it and cleaning it from the back, which made no difference. I've also replaced the AOS, and although that seems to have significantly reduced - almost stopped - the "clouds of smoke on startup" incidents and the car no longer stumbles and almost dies when the oil filler cap is removed, there is still a sucking sound from the cap when removed. I did the trick of removing the return pipe from the AOS to the throttle body and plugging the hole - no sucking noise, but quite an "overpressure" (perhaps because I plugged both the hole in the throttle body and the end of the return pipe). Anyway, I've just checked the voltages on the MAF. When not running, they are 0.95v at pin 5 and 1.2v at pin 1, when idling they are 1.2v at pin 5 and 2.5 at pin 1. (5 is the air flow, 1 is the temperature, right?). Are these what I should expect? I doubt they are very far out, because as I say, there are no CELs or codes, and it's a *slight* stumble... Many Thanks! Graham
  18. I think I know what the problem is now - I got a local independent garage to put his Durametric on my machine, and although there were no codes, the car did think that the air intake temperature was 54 degrees Centigrade, which is about 130 degrees Fahrenheit. On a rainy day in Seattle, I don't think so! I gave the MAF a REALLy good cleaning, and it's marginally better, but I think it's basically due to be replaced. Before I spend unbelievably large amounts of money on a tiny piece of plastic and metal, does anyone want to tell me what they think will happen as a result of the car thinking it's 130 degrees when it's really about 55? My guess is that it will decide the air is thinner and put less fuel in, hence leaning out the mix. Am I right?
  19. My 02 996 has a slight hesitation at low revs when accelerating. It's not serious but it is annoying. The odd thing is that if I reset the computer by leaving the battery disconnected for an hour or so, the hesitation vanishes, the car feels a little more lively, and the fuel consumption improves a little (from 17 to 19 on my usual routine). Over a couple of weeks, the hestitation returns and the fuel consumption slowly increases. I'm wondering if the computer is "getting it wrong" as it trys to relearn after the reset??? I've cleaned the throttle body thoroughly and also the MAF using the correct cleaners, without any effect. I also took the car to Schucks and got them to read the codes, but there weren't any - although I'm wondering if their reader would pick up every code. Help?
  20. Thanks Ray - was there any particular manual or set of instructions you followed, or is it so blindingly obvious that you "just do it"? G
  21. I'm occasionally getting clouds of whiteish smoke from the engine of my 02 996 with 36k miles on it at startup. I do mean clouds - enough to fill several bays of a parking garage. In addition to this I've got a feeling the engine is occasionally missing or loosing a little power at lower revs. Having said that, it isn't using an excessive amount of oil. If I remove the oil filler cap at idle, there is a little vacuum and the engine stumbles for a while. I think this is the oil seperator problem, but is there anything else I should be considering? My 996 is a manual, would it still help to drop the gearbox, or can this realistically be done easier without doing so. I've also got some clutch judder, possibly a slightly warped flywheel - not enough to be worth fixing by itself, but if the gearbox needs to come out anyway....
  22. I just had my 02 996 cab serviced yesterday, and asked the tech to replace the plugs simply because they were 5 years old. I could be mistaken, but I'm sure the car is a little smoother now, both at idle and on the throttle. I didn't think there was anything wrong before, but... I would suggest it's worth it - it's not exactly a lot of money if you are doing it yourself, after all.
  23. Dude, those magnetic clamps TOTALLY work! When I drive north I get at least 15 mpg more. The car seems a bit slow when I drive south though...
  24. I have had the SmartTop and Remote Top installed since they came on the market .... some years, I guess. I have never had to remove them for any sort of top self-calibration. They both work fine. I had problems with mine as well. I contacted SmartTop, and they were really excellent in helping me out, even to the extent of shipping me an extra unit to test with. It turned out that one of the pins in the connector on the Porsche control box had pushed in and wasn't making proper contact. It would be worth your while to take out the box the SmartTop plugs into, remove the cover and check the back side of the connector. It's really easy to see the problem from the back of the connector, and it's quite likely that this is the problem - the vibration of the top opening is enough to make the faulty connection fail, stopping the opening. If this is the problem, all you need to do is push the pin back down and you should be good to go.
  25. Got it! Thanks for the pointer Victor - it turns out that there is a length of what we Brits would call "knicker elastic" going between the sides of the top at the midpoint, which should pull the sides in as the roof closes. One side has ripped off on my car. Half an hour with a needle and thread should fix it. :-)
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.