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Rodger

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Everything posted by Rodger

  1. Rodger
    It's normal for the engine to puff a little due to oil sneaking past the piston rings. If copious amounts of oil are making their way into the exhaust after startup, and only after startup, you may be experiencing valve guide wear/stem seal leakage. For $85 (from Sunset Imports) you can replace your AOS and see if it helps. And as to your oil question, my AOS which was replaced before it faield had about the same amount of oil in the tubing as yours did. I cut the AOS open and found almost no oil inside it.....it just tends to collect a bit in the tubing. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=13963 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=14000
  2. Rodger
    Also, if the plugs look OK but the O2 sensor is completely fouled, what type of plugs are you using and what heat range are they? It's best if you can provide the actual numbers off of the plugs. Was the DME reflashed with an upgraded tune or simply a new version of the factory tune you're supposed to have? Any mods to the engine? - P1125 - O2 sensor Cyl 4-6 lean threshold - P0130 - O2 sensor Cyl 1-3 intercore shorted or limited - P0156 - O2 sensor Cyl 4-6 intercore short circuit - P1276 - O2 sensor Cyl 4-6 aging, below lower limit. If you've got a Durametric, I'd recommend logging some actual values after resetting the DME. I'd specifically look at the O2 sensors, MAF, and coolant temp sensor if they're all available simultaneously. You also may want to try disconnecting the MAF to see if it affects the richness. Would you please also provide a rundown of the parts you've replaced, and whether or not they were new from a dealer or from a parts store chain.
  3. Rodger
    No noise? If it didn't make a bad noise and stop running altogether, it sounds more like an oil seal somewhere failed. Did your car get a PPI before you bought it?
  4. Rodger
    dgh
  5. Rodger
    I cut it open! See here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=14000
  6. Rodger
    qwe
  7. Rodger
    asd
  8. Rodger
    I've got my bad one handy, I just need a dremel to cut it open. I guess I know what today's project is..... http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=13963
  9. Rodger
    Do you have a service manual? I'm looking at my copy. Did you remove the deflection roller in front of the alternator? It sounds like you need to loosen the roller's center bolt three turns, tap it lightly with a hammer to unseat it, then you should be able to lift the alternator out of its bracket. Once it's lifted up, you should have access to another bolt, then the whole thing comes out with the deflection roller. "The generator must be turned clockwise so the swivel arm is near the crankcase and the holding arm projects beyond the fastening eye." Don't forge the connections at the back. Slide the alternator forward a bit and undo them. Sorry I can't be more helpful......if mine ever craps out I'll be sure to post a DIY!
  10. Rodger
    Sorry, the author of this DIY has removed it from the site. This is the support topic for the DIY Tutorial. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.
  11. Rodger
    asdf
  12. Rodger
    asdasdf
  13. Rodger
    asdfg
  14. Rodger
    I actually sold my '99 Boxster partly because fo paranoia about the engine failing or the RMS leaking. Then I bought my second Boxster and put the worries to the back of my mind. I take great care of my cars and I don't trust them to any mechanic other than myself. Anything that breaks, I pretty much know who to blame. Besides, it's rare for someone to have an engine failure, but even more rare for people to post about how their engine didn't fail on a given day. For the record, I drove my Boxster S yesterday, and the engine did great. :D
  15. Rodger
    Right....as I said in my previous post, if you were to remove the relay carrier you'd see quite a few wires running to the back side of each one.
  16. Rodger
    Those spots don't look empty....they look like they have shorting plugs in them. Empty relay sockets will have an actual hole. See my post in the DIY section regarding PSE wiring. When I installed that relay socket, the relay, and the wiring, I used one of the open "holes" on the relay carrier. If you remove the relay carrier, you'll see the shorting plugs have lots of similar-colored wires running to them. Things like speedometer output, grounds, and LED lighting share common shorting plugs. You definitely don't want to pop out one of the shorting plugs! Did you get your footwell lighting issue sorted with the schematic? If not, I can take a look.
  17. Rodger
    Sent you a PM.
  18. Rodger
    The quantity of oil in the intake is going to be relatively proportional to the amount of blow-by occurring in the engine. If you've got a fresh engine and the clearances are still tight, I would expect the amount of oil to be minimal. In a very worn engine, there may be significant blow-by, which would put more oil into the intake. Most engines use a simply check valve-type device to control crankcase ventilation. Because of the design of the boxer engine, a complicated oil seperation device is needed in order to seperate the blow-by gases from the oil vapor that may be present. Either that, or Porsche likes to over-engineer PCV parts. As the AOS internals start to fail, you may see more and more oil in the intake. Considering the relative ease of changing the AOS, and the cost (about $100 from Sunset Imports), I'm changing mine simply for the peace of mind. I have absolutely no evidence of failure (internally), just some oil leakage around one of the o-rings at the base. When the AOS fails catastrophically, massive amounts of oil may be dumped into the engine. Also, some cars have the bellows fail at the base of the AOS, which causes CEL codes similar to a bad MAF. You may change the AOS and still find oil vapor present in the intake. I don't know what the standard is for blow-by, but I suspect some oil is acceptable. Side note: after I replace my AOS, I'm going to cut it open to see how it works.
  19. Rodger
    That's the air/oil seperator. I just ordered one for my Boxster from Sunset Imports in Portland, OR. It looks easy to replace from above if you've got thin arms and can reach the two bolts that mount it to the engine. You've also got to have a razor blade to cut off the old bellows, then it's just a matter of wiggling it out of the engine bay. If you remove the protective plate covering the transmission, you can get quite a bit of access from below.
  20. Rodger
    A dremel with a small wire brush will quickly remove all rubber, while leaving a slightly polished finish on the aluminum.
  21. Rodger
    Loctite should be fine. I'm going to replace my AOS very soon (probably next week) since it's leaking at the o-ring (not the bellows) and I'll probably replace my oil filler pipe at the same time, since it's cracked.
  22. Rodger
    I've got a Durametric, and since I only have one Boxster, the first two people to ask for help in or around Anchorage, AK will get it. PM me here, or ask around on PPBB, Rennlist, or 986Forum.
  23. Rodger
    It sounds very much like the air/oil seperator has failed. It's about $100 to replace if you DIY.
  24. Rodger
    dfy
  25. Rodger
    Looks awesome.... Wish my Ocean Blue looked that good!
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