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Been a long time since I've made it over to Renntech or any forum. Life sometimes gets in the way! Anyways... I am having to drive my 2001 Boxster S everyday right now... in the heat. Ever since I did my 3.6 swap in 2010, my AC hasn't blown cold. The system has been filled twice, but each time it lost the cool after a few days. The car sat for about 6 months without an engine in it, outside under a cover. I took it to a local shop here in nashville. They told me it held no pressure, and it would need to be dried after they find the leak. My question is, what do you all think would be the best and cheapest (money is a big issue right now, obviously since I am driving a 3.6 swapped boxster track car daily!) method of fixing my AC? Loren... paging... Loren ;) Thanks in advance...
Since you have an 03, and a 7.8 DME, you will want to get a 7.8 engine 2.7, 3.2, 3.4 (987s), and 3.8 will all fit, some without lowering engine mounts (those out of a 986 or 987)... you should already have those extra wires on your harness. You will also have to reflash your ecu to whatever engine you are using. I have an orginally 2001 boxster S tiptronic that is now running a 2002 3.6... upgraded to 7.8 electronics... transmission has been holding strong, and has seen five track weekends since this swap. GIAC didn't want to touch the dme for me since it was going into a tip, but everything worked fine. It was a shot in the dark, bc as of then no-one I could find had done it, but its had about 10,000 miles (at right at 300rwhp) on it and is running strong as ever.
From what I remember the bolt holes on my 3.2 manifold did not match up with those for the aluminum intake runners (996 engines... or at least the 3.6... have aluminum stacks that connect to shorter (inheight) intake manifolds)
Once we finished my 3.6 swap into my 986S three weeks ago, I ran 0w40 in it for about 1000 miles... but this weekend I developed what sounded like a valve tick... so this morning I put 15w50 mobil 1 in it... and the tick is gone ... I usally run 15w50 for the track, but I was hoping the 0w40 was going to help clean out my new engine as it was originally in a burner
Loren!!! how you gonna go answer someone else's first... only kidding... but seriously... this is the only thing left with my 3.6 swap... not that I should be listening to the radio anyways! :renntech:
I have what should be the 996 3.6 TB (99660511501), and when I ordered the accompanying t-piece (99611021553) from Porsche... i was sent a T-piece that did not fit (it was larger) the TB... the T-piece is stamped 99611011553, but per the Parts katalogs I ordered 99611021553... which is how the t-piece I got is stickered..... my question is what does 99611011553 go to? I can not find it all? Lastly anyone know a source for the proper t-piece?
my plan... and this will be removed for street use... Im more for function than coolness... is to use the kolken rear deck in fiberglass, fab my own supports, and get the predator wing from GT racing (http://www.gt-racing.com/) it is adjustable for attack angle...
Been there done that... I ended up getting the real OEM in 986 ET for a steal. The replicas are good... but they weight ALOT more than the OEM wheels and are not as strong. I wouldnt track on them. As far as tire size... I run 235 up front and 275 in the rear with Toyo T1Rs... they fit, but the fronts rub a little. Im also lowered an inch and have rear spacers (15mm)... if you dont care to rub at full turn or are not lowered go with 235 up front... more front tire = less understeer ... some 285s will fit in the rear but sometimes it is hit or miss.... places like wheel enhancement will tell you that 265 is the biggest they will go. I have 265 at first but I had more room and the 265 seemed stretched to me on the 9.5" rear rim... Just my two cents... also if you are looking for a OEM set look this guy up... http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117022
I am looking at a couple of motor options including outright pruchase of recycled motors and rebuilt motors. Istooks and Mayo here by me will do rebuilds, if the "core" is decent it is not too expensive. I was thinking about doing a rebuild myself using the same machine work guys that both those local shops do, but I think I would rather be driving the car than working on it! the 3.4 and 3.6 options would be recycled motors I wish I had a rebuildable core... I need an engine now... so im looking used out of a junker. I found a place that will re-sleeve my cylinders with nickies while upgrading my pistons to whatever I want, but its what a used 3.4 would be price wise... I may tear down my old block once I get it out and go that route but not yet...
It is true that if you hunt you can find motors less than $5k. My 3.2 was running, but with metal in the oil filter and a faint rod knock that would increase with engine temp. I am not sure I would call that "running". I would be happy to sell you my motor for parts. Sounds like your motor's crank is ok and my cylinders etc seem to be in good order. In reality though, I am also looking at if it is worth parting out my motor instead of sending in the core. Shiping on my core is $250 or so which means I would only need to sell $800 worth of parts to be ahead and my heads etc should all be in good order, manifolds, cats etc etc also all present and should be in usable state. Makes sense... are you thinking about trading in the core for a rebuilt unit from Porsche? I would think about your motor, but I dont have the spot to spend the time rebuilding one... I have access to a garage to do the swap, just not to take apart the engine... good luck with your search!
What happened to you 3.2L engine? How many miles were on it? Now would be the best time to consider a 3.6L engine from a 911. 3.2 has 85k miles. Low oil pressure, may have had to do with oil seperator issue, or may have been due to some sort of abuse. Problem with a 3.6 is that it requires more ecu headaches, new gauges etc etc to get it working. Now if you are suggesting putting my manifolds onto a 3.6 block and heads, Good idea! But the question remains, how well would that work? Would it be worth the extra money and effort? What would the ecu do with the extra displacement? Ha! I just got what I assume is the same offer from the same place for a 3.2 or 3.4 longblock for the same price.... and I wanted to come over here to see if changing my intakes would even work... except in my case my 3.2 won't run at all... crack cylinder sleeve. In your case... have you tried changing the A/O sep? its not too hard to do... and it will save you the headache of changing the motor. I WISH my problem was just low oil pressure... and 3.2 can be found for less than 5... just have to look. hard.