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fastboydave

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Everything posted by fastboydave

  1. fastboydave
    From my knowledge/experience most Porsche dealers will respray bonnet and front bumper if any evidence of stone chips. If rear bumper and lower sides (under door) are skuffed by 'shoes' they will also 'flash' them. All ofcourse by a Porsche 'official' body repair centre, which will then be covered by a 10 year warrantee if checked every year by the repair centre. This is in UK anyway.
  2. fastboydave
    Guys...... I've had a look through a number of topics reference wheel allignment and tyre wear but never actually found the answers i'm looking for. Right, for you clued up folks what/how much 'uneven' tyre wear should i have on front and rear? I'm getting minimal inside edge wear on rear, quite a bit on front. Keep having garages say I need an allignment etc etc, but the car runs straight and handles well. Both tyres on each axle wear about the same, so why should it be allignment? Dont you get one wearing 'funny' if it is?? Is this just B.S?? I've read that all Porkas wear on inside (Turbo more??)? I'm also concerned that it actually wont run straight and handle as well afterwards as i've read elsewhere. At the end of the day i suspect that if i spend the cash and have it done, it will still wear on the inside edges?? What do you think?? Any body that could take a photo of their tyre tread (rear and front) and quote mileage would be useful for me as a comparison? Thanking you in advance. Dave.
  3. fastboydave
    Porsche's 'approved' oil and used by most is Mobil 1. For my car (996TT) 0W40 or 5W40 is recommended (dealer fill is 5W40). In all honesty, surely if you need a top up desperately adding a slightly different weight oil isnt going to be a problem........ Do you have your owners manual?? It tells you in there the oil weights for your car.
  4. fastboydave
    For me, a couple of things...... Firstly, nicely prepared car, not 'overdone', i like it. Secondly, whether its my imagination or not, but i always thought the rear tyre is closer to the arch?? Now whether thats due to the arches being different (rear shallower) or whether it sits down on the rear a bit more i dont know. My Box S with factory 10mm lowered 'sports suspension' seemed to be like this and i'm darn sure that my 996TT is like it too?? Maybe i'm dreaming? If its any help, yours doesnt look 'funny' at all to me..........
  5. fastboydave
    Richard, where are these from? How much?? Cheers.
  6. fastboydave
    I have a PCM 1, but have had similar problems with an "Orange" SIM. It does not recognise it at all and quotes the message you mention. I came to the conclusion that it only works on Vodafone and BT (O2). You can find this out by doing a scan of available operators (on PCM1 at least). It only ever finds Voda and BT (O2) and when i have used my Voda SIM (only ever briefly and not for prelonged period) i have had no problems. Maybe this is just luck at this time though??
  7. fastboydave
    Thats pretty good that price! I actually used those guys for new rear discs and pads. Very pleased with them, will be getting my fronts from them soon...... Let us know how you get on with the refurb......... As for the Micra, there is no other way than looking like mobile 'white goods'!!! Suuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuperb!
  8. fastboydave
    I had a Box S with the "Sport Design" wheels and had an 'issue' with the rears.......... No damage, but i had a 'production flaw' on the outer polished rim and the alloy was corroding in places. Luckily for me, even though it was out of warrantee i managed to write a great letter to Porsche GB quoting my limited knowledge of casting and alloys and basically managed to convince them it was a production flaw, which in my opinion it was. Two new wheels were shipped to my dealer. After that experience i would never have the split rims again, even though they look the best, they are just to dam difficult to get them refurbed should anything go wrong............ However........ In my opinion you have great wheels (possibly the best looking Porsche wheels in my opinion) and therefore should be refurbed to the best possible standard. What are these wheels from a dealer new? £1000 each??? I.M.H.O you should get the best refurber and pay the money as its a small price to pay considering the inherent value of them. Also, if you get them done 'right' you wont have to get them done again, and have the same hasle all over again that you refer to....... Hire a cheap car for a few days, a nice Micra!! ;-)
  9. fastboydave
    The Bose 'box' behind the seats houses two reverse mounted speakers (facing the carpet) then the rear of the speaker cones are 'ported' to the outside world.
  10. fastboydave
    It really should be 'plug and play' especially with no MOST. Are you sure the connections are OK?? Is the CD-3 a known working unit?? If so, try taking off the battery for a few minutes and try again. Make sure you have the PCM codes though before you do! ;-) Key in the ignition to stop the alarm going off too.
  11. fastboydave
    The issues i've had on my 996TT and my previous Boxster S, that were covered under warrantee are: Clutch release baring faulty (common fault), ignition coils cracked, front radiator leaking (manufacturing fault), charging problems when its been raining (replaced belt tensioner and alternator, still not solved!), diverter valve leaking (common fault, not achieving boost), clutch slave cylinder failure. There may have been one or two more things, but off the top of my head............. I have had other things fail, but not covered under the warrantee ('wear and tear' items!!!) and as that is what we're talking about....... These cars are by no means infalible........Porsche like to 'advertise' that its an everyday super car, but in reality i have found both my Porsche vehilcles to have many faults, not only in things going wrong but with possible 'improvement' opportunities being present. No doubt they saved them up for the 997 and future models........ These cars like others can be a labour of love and very intoxicating indeed!
  12. fastboydave
    Rattles!!! Arrrrrrrggggghhhhhhhhh! Mine rattles and squeaks everywere inside and as i understand it many 996's do. I've sorted a few, but in the end its just too many and not enough time...... I sympathise......... Oh, my 996TT exhaust shield is loose and that rattles, but cant here it from the inside when driving.
  13. fastboydave
    I think at the end of the day, if the car doesnt continue to smoke after a few seconds (or while driving) and the oil consumption is well within the spec quoted in the owners manual, then thats what you have and you have to live with it. Think mine uses about 0.25ltrs every 2000mls (approx).
  14. fastboydave
    Sounds OK to me. I occasionally get the 'smoke' at startup which should burn off/clear in a few seconds. Its quite random in nature and havent really found the cause of it..... A theory of mine is if you park up after a drive and pretty much turn engine straight off, I seem to get it then. If you leave ticking ova for a minute or two (should anyway with Turbo) seems to hardly ever happen. Porsche incidentally say this is perfectly normal. My Box S used to do it too. If the smoke continues 'minutes' into startup, then a different 'issue' exists............
  15. fastboydave
    That is perfect! Cheers buddy, appreciated. Just shopping around now for best price 'Porsche' brakes! Got any contacts??? Dave.
  16. fastboydave
    Guys..... For all you experts out there, a quick question..... I'm about to change disc (rotors) and pads on a 996 TT, which from the fantastic instructions on Renntech will make it easy! Thank you Renntech! However, on the rears it says release the handbrake through the wheel bolt hole? Now although sounds easy, it doesnt actually say how to do it, or what the 'adjuster' looks like? Or where you have the bolt hole? Get what i mean? Anyone got a quick answer for me? Thanking you in adavnce. Dave.
  17. fastboydave
    I suspect that is you ask Porsche about the 'grills' they will say that it is up to you, but any 'overheating' that may occur and resultant damage will be at your risk. They love to cover their ***!!!! In reality the grills wont cause anything i believe and only in extreme situations (hard driven on track on a hot day) may you see elevated temperature. I have the 996 TT, which may be more accute unfortunately, thats my only worry.......... Congrats on your recent purchase, a very nice machine indeed............
  18. fastboydave
    Not bad at all...... How did you attatch it to the rear of the grills?? Wander if it will cut down the airflow into the rads much??? I constantly worry about stones perforating the rads, this has to be a good trick if the airflow is still quite good??
  19. fastboydave
    Buy yourself the LED type. The bulbs wont die, are better performance (brightness) and it is as good quality as the OEM part. Check them out, i got mine from Carnewal, but you do have to change the positive and negative around on the conector that plugs into the light............
  20. fastboydave
    I've sent you a personal message. Dave.
  21. fastboydave
    I had this with my old Boxster S. They were dealer fit (as opposed to factory) and i think is where all the problems start? The 'double sided' tape came away within 1 week. They then ordered 'special' strong bonding tape to refit the skirts. However, the fit was unsatisfactory with a huge gap all along the top. Back it goes again, this time to the bodyshop they use. The body shop proceeded to use windscreen sealant, which they reckon was stronger and also less prone to water relaxing the hold. OK for about two weeks, then off it starts to come again. Back once again, and finally they did a good fitting 'flush' job that actually lasted near three years until i sold the car! Look nice, but god they are a pain!!!
  22. fastboydave
    Duncanoaks, please see this thread that i replied to before. Think this is exactly what you are talking about......... http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...3578&hl=PCM Dave.
  23. fastboydave
    Only 25-30k ago hey? Thats a bit soon after? Mind, depends on driving style of previous owner. I had mine changed (on a 996TT) at 35k. Not because it had worn out, just because all the labour was absorbed with the replacement of the clutch release baring (under warrantee) so i thought what the hell! They said it looked half worn at 35k. You know it could just be the baring or even the slave cylinder....... At the end of the day, its a trust thing with the technicians and hopefully you'll get someone who can recommend somewhere nearby for you that doesnt B.S. Good luck with it my friend.
  24. fastboydave
    As the clutch is hydraulic, the way it is set up is similar to brakes, in that the cylinder takes up the free play and therefore is self adjusting (or so i'm led to believe). If you have a hydraulic problem (air etc) as i have had recently, then the 'bite' goes to the floor as you have fluid loss. It could very well be the clutch, but dont just accept that, it could be the clutch release baring (a very common fault, i have had two go, on a Boxster S and my current 996TT). This issue will make the clutch very difficult to press, but shouldnt affect the bite maybe?? Do you have an extended warrantee on it?? If you have a new clutch, i think the release baring is part of the parts they replace so you'll never know? Either way it is a fair amount of labour, the only question is whether its a saving of clutch parts? How many miles you have on it??
  25. fastboydave
    Dsendag, what Valley996TT says is correct. If your NOT happy with the boost (seems variable although atmospheric conditions do affect it) then you probably have an intermittent issue (hoses, wastegate but more likely diverter valves). The dealer should (if under warrantee) do a full pressure check of the system if you are not happy etc. If they argue with you that it is perfectly fine, ask them for a drive of another X50 to see......... there's no argument then...... Can you continue your warrantee? May be an idea if you are leaving it stock? Each year i have gained my money back and more with the items that have gone wrong. Some that i can remember are: Clutch release baring (common fault), faulty front radiator (centre), alternator, 3x cracked ingnition coils, diverter valve (common fault), clutch slave cylinder and one or two other things i cant remember. Is your coolant level being maintained?? You can have a cracked header tank (quite common), although i dont think this is under the extended warrantee? They are good cars (driving) but by no means without their faults.......
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