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albudracr
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Lost Radio Code - post your request here
albudracr replied to pennyporsche's topic in Lost Radio Codes
Try 3142 or 3140 If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST 3143 did the trick. Thanks Loren! -
Lost Radio Code - post your request here
albudracr replied to pennyporsche's topic in Lost Radio Codes
Try 3142 or 3140 If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST Copy that. Will let you know results! Thanks a million! -
Lost Radio Code - post your request here
albudracr replied to pennyporsche's topic in Lost Radio Codes
Loren, Need a code if you'd like to help. 1998 Boxster; CR-210; Model R3297; serial V5017402. Thanks! -
I haven't seen this kit in person, but I have looked for something similar for my 98 986, and the only caveat I would bring up is that I believe this only works in the hard rear storage case where pockets already exist. My car has the soft case with pull-zipper assemblies, so it's not a direct solution. Hope this helps.
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Try on your link again Norm, it's no good...
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No problem, there Baconaire, Hope you kick it's ***! Let me know how it worked for ya. Yep sounds like you've got the proceedure down. The only reason I didn't mention the impact, is that I doubt there's room. Have a good Turkey Day!
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Oh and as a second thought, as separate parts with an interference fit expand/contract separately, don't be afraid to heat the block and cool the bolt with the ice too. You might be able to contract the fastener, and expand the block slightly (think microns not millimeters.)
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As an IndyCar mechanic, I can tell you that most penetrants (PB Blast, WD40, TC-11, ZX-7) are about worthless on Loctite. (particularly Red High Heat, and Green Self-Wicking.) Locktite does make solvents to help these, but getting it to the threads is about impossible sometimes. The only constant solution that really works is heat. For tight jobs on our chassis, I have a pencil butane powered torch, and as long as you heat the head up good (1 or 2 minutes w/o a strong crosswind) and if you can get leverage on it, you can get it loose. As with any other open flame/auto repair combo, just use your head. And DON'T try to use a propane torch or god forbid acetylene or any such nonsense! You need precision, not quantity of flame. Cheap butane torches can be had at discount tool places like Harbor Freight for minimal investment, and come in handy all over the place (soldering large gauge connectors to wire 1/0 2/0 etc.) or reducing shrink tubing with care and speed. As an additional step you can shock it with an ice cube or two inbetween a few heat cycles, and it will help to shock the Loctite. Hope this helps. ;)