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This is a text rendition of the link he passed. Relay Charts Front (Under Dash) Relay Panel _ . 1 . 2 . 3 . 4 . 5 _ . 6 . 7 . 8 . 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 Slot # What It Controls Part# M-NO/Notes 1 Empty 2 Empty 3 Flasher 4 Rear Window Defogger/Mirror 996 615 117 00 5 Empty 6 CU Daytime Running Light 996.615.111.00 M113 7 CU Daytime Running Light 996.615.111.00 8 Headlight Washing 996.618.113.00 M288 9 Term XE 141 951 253 B 10 Two-Tone Horns 141 951 253 B 11 Empty 12 Fog Light USA/Japan 141 951 253 B M193 M553 13 Fuel Pump 996 615 101 00 14 Control Unit - Folding Top Control 986 618 199 00 Double Relay 15 Control Unit - Folding Top Control 986 618 199 00 Double Relay 16 Wiper-Intermittent Control 986 615 103 00 17 Empty 18 Actuation Heating 141 951 253 B 19 Radiator Fan 1 - Setting 1 141 951 253 B 20 Radiator Fan 1 - Setting 2 141 951 253 B 21 Radiator Fan 2 - Setting 1 141 951 253 B 22 Radiator Fan 2 - Setting 2 141 951 253 B Rear (In Trunk) Relay Panel 1 . 2 . 3 . 4 . 5 . 6 7 . 8 . 9 . 10. 11. 12 Slot # What It Controls Part# M-NO/Notes 1 DME 141 951 253 B 2 Ignition/O2 Sensor 141 951 253 B 3 Spoiler Extension 996 615 102 00 4 A/C Compressor 964 615 215 00 5 Empty 6 Empty 7 Start Lock Start Lock 141 951 253 B 996 615 110 00 M009 M008 8 Blower Engine Comp 141 951 253 B 9 Spoiler Retraction 996 615 102 00 10 Secondary Air Pump 993 615 115 00 M661 11 Empty 12 Empty 13 Maxi Fuse/Secondary Air Pump 14 Test Plug for Autom. Exaust Gas Recirculation 1 Signal 2 Term 31 Grnd 6 Tn-Signal - Ad Sach

This is my creeper (without those handy tool trays) http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...temnumber=46087

The clips at A & B came off as expected - my problems is the fittings with the BIG arrows would not pop off. I ended up stretching and tearing the rubber bushings to get them off.

I am still curious: 1. How the heck are you supposed to disconnect the shift linkage cables from the 6 speed transmission?

Clutch kit was about $450 New creeper, 2 more jackstands, spare CV boot bolts, new plastic underbelly pieces,etc brought the DIY job to about $600-700. If your flywheel needs replacing (from another post?) this requires a 'special' socket. It looks like about a TA65 - T75 Torx, so I would confirm the tool and order a couple of spares before disassembly. Without this wrench, I was unable to remove the pilot shaft bearing mounted in the center of the flywheel, so i had to reuse the old one. I spent about 18 hours - 3 hours wasted on removing the muffler (not an intuitive thing) & exhaust(disconnect at the U link between the cats and the muffler) - another 2 hours wasted on removing the shifter linkage (I'd still like to know the right way) - 1 more hour spent in jacking the car because the jackstands I purchased were too tall for my jack. The 6-speed transaxle is heavy for a small car so unless you enjoy bench pressing 100+ lbs a transmission jack is a real good thing to have - I didn't and survived somehow. I probably saved $800-$1000 in labor charges in exchange for a full weekend spent working under my car.

I just changed my 2000S clutch at 48.7K after having an RMS leak in the 1st 5 K that did NOT affect my clutch. The clutch was fully worn out and starting to slip in 3rd gear. I got over 110,ooo miles on the clutch in my Nissan Sentra(daily driver before the Boxster). The only clutch abuse My Boxster got was in the last week before I changed it when I 'laid scratch' twice for about 3 feet. Curiously, the new clutch(genuine Porsche) is much less stiff than the old clutch. The factory clutch had always taken a fair amount of leg muscle. I am assuming this is due to weaker 'fingers' in the pressure plate. If I were to make a wild speculation, I would guess the clutch is 'easier' because the Cayenne might now share a clutch with the 996/Boxster S. sorry - no RMS picture

Even when ... I did a full flush at all 4 brakes and ... I bled the clutch multiple times (because I'm an idiot and left the clutch pedal DOWN) and ... I spilled several ounces on the ground(because it is really hard to reinstall the clutch slave cylinder - during a clutch change - without bleeding all over the place and compressing multiple times) ... even then I used less than 1 liter.

These are the instructions I used (from a search on this site for) r ear bumper cover Exhaust R&R Instructions from PPBB archives http://www.ppbb.com/boards/ppbbphp/showthr...ew=&sb=&o=&vc=1 do steps 1-5 note on step 1: The little plastic rivet thingies on the raised spoiler cost about 20 cents each and my (small) dealer had them in stock. Even if you lose the inside, they will pretty much stay in position and hold your spoiler lip on for a week or more. note on step 3: these are hex headed capscrews (about 8-9mm) and are recessed so that a L-shaped hex wrench will work. There really isn't enough room to fit a socket wrench down there.

This really looks trashed compared to other Boxsters. Have you considered asking the Porsche dealer to replace it as it is abnormal wear on a non-standard interior part? Though I hesitate to suggest it is your fault, you might consider moving the shifter differently. I mostly contact the knob with the middle and end sections of my two largest fingers and the heel end of my palm. The shifter knob doesn't contact the base of my ring finger.

When I did rear bumper cover and the back half of the rear fender liners it only took about 30 minutes. It took about the same to put back on. It is hard to know exactly, since I also removed the license plate(unneccesary to remove), the rear bumper, muffler heat shield, etc. Removing the rear bumper cover is a LOT easiler than I expected.

Dougman, As a Trombone player who reread a Scientific American article on the Horn Function several times in the 80s, I choose to disagree with your theory on harmonic resonance. Your basic thought is good but it seems to ignore two issues: 1) the air filter placed in the middle of the relevant airstream totally mucks up the harmonics, 2) the open cup at the end of the tube (in the ah position of the wa-wa sound of a hat mute) radically disrupts the Bernoulli effect of the flared end of the tube. After the air filter, there is 'an effective length to the intake track' that could favor certain RPM ranges. De-snorking doesn't affect this length. PS. I have no direct knowledge as I have never de-snorked.

I don't have the numbers, but after a year of driving, my factory set toe was negative on one side and positive on the other, my front camber numbers were also off 0.4 side to side (uggh). After a precision alignment I experienced handling that was 'better than new'. IMO - it isn't safe to assume a good alignment as factory delivered.

Rear brake pads generally last much long than front pads - you are unlikely to need to replace front and rear unless you are planning to go to pagid orange or some other racing/non-stock brake pad. Changing the brake pads take about 15 minutes per wheel longer than changing the tires. Once you have the wheel off, the first pads might take 30 minutes because it is hard to figure out how to remove the brake wear sensors without breaking them and because it is the first set. The subsequent pads take about 10 minutes each. Depending on how long it takes you to jack a car and locate your Torque wrench, this is about a 3 hour job in a home garage. My first brake pad change was front only and took 3-4 hours but this included installing speedbleeders on all 4 wheels, totally replacing the brake fluid, and bleeding the brakes. It was the first time I had worked on brakes in about 30 years and is basically a 'piece of cake' to do right. A big time saver is to jack the rear jack point until the front wheel lifts and do one side at a time. This is a great link if you are thinking of doing it yourself http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/proje...es/change_pads/

I use a TECHTOP which did the same thing for about half the price 2 years ago. Lots of folks use smartTOP and you can buy by clicking >> special offers << at the top of the page. I am a strong believer in these products. You can put the top up and down at city street speeds, which means you can "wait until the last minute" when the weather threatens. In a place with variable weather (like the eastern US) this is a real advantage since a lot of threats don't pan out.

Unless you are going to the track this weekend, another week should be fine. The pads have some life aftger the sensor wires start grinding down. BTW- double check that it is the "brake wear" sensor rather than the "brake fluid" sensor. This can be done by looking at the brake fluid level in the front trunk. The guage is on the side of a plastic tank. My brake fluid went low before my stock pads wore out.

I have had 3 or 4 alignments on my '02 985S. The camber changes in the rear have ranged from -0.3 to -1.2, front from 0.2 to -0.5 with minimal adjustments to toe. At no time has the dealer or independent mechanic mentioned anything about calibrating the steering angle sensor for PSM. I forget the slip angle limit (derived from the yaw & steering angle sensors) that invokes PSM intervention. It is reasonable to assume that helpful slip angles in the 5-7 degree range could be miscalculated significantly by a few degrees of misalignment in the steering angle sensor. IMO-Your concern seems well founded, but I have not experienced a change in center line of the wheel after an alignment, or an obvious change in PSM intervention.

Looks like a natural blend of the 997 and the 944 to me.

I used a carrera rear window wiper switch for a garage door figuring that painting out the line it would look like a garage door. http://www.blueturban.com/temp/door_opener2.jpg

I didn't use a socket - just individual spade lugs. No problems for over 2 years.

Having recently replaced the clutch on my 02 Boxster S, I have 2 questions. 1. How the heck are you supposed to disconnect the linkage cables from the 6 speed transmission? 2. I replaced the clutch disk, throwout bearing and pressure plate with Porsche branded parts ordered from Sunset Imports. I also replaced the bleed screw with a speed bleeder. 15 months ago, I had replaced the brake fluid with ATE Super Blue and bled the brakes but had not bled the clutch because I couldn't find the bleed screw. The original clutch always felt like a 'monster'. Everyone who drove it was surprised at the pedal effort, yet the dealers never noted it as unusual. The new clutch goes in an out with about the same spring tension as the throttle. It grabs solidly (easy to chirp tires on the 1-2 upshift), but it feels wimpy like my old Nissan Sentra clutch pedal. Is the any reason why my new clutch should take less than half the pressure to operate than the original factory clutch? General comment - Porsche designed some things (removing the rear bumper and bumper cover, replacing the oil filter) to be intuitive and easy. In other places (muffler mounts), they just seem to have attached things stupidly. In still others(1 out of 9 bell housing bolts has a triple square head, Flywheel uses monstrous TORX bolts), they just seem to use fasteners designed to frustrate the DIY mechanic. Ad Sach

I have ordered from sunset twice. Very good service both times. On the second order, they called to apologize that the 18 CV retaining bolts in stock had all been allocated to other people and they hadn't checked that column when taking my order. He said he went to the bin and counted 19 bolts, did I want just 1 bolt instead of the 6 requested. They made the next day delivery of the clutch in time for my weekend install, and as it turned out, I only damaged one bolt head as I only destroyed one during removal. I feel they did an excellent job of informing me immediately of a problem and were very professional and courteous.

If it were me, I would replace the locking lug boltss. The lock wrenches have been known to break in use. Also, IMO 5 standard lug bolts look better that 4 standard +1 locking. It is much easier to remove and torque your tires without the locking bolts.

I have purchased multiple sets of Yokohama AVS ES100 - they have about 80% of dry grip in the rain. The dry grip is very good with extremely fast turnin and predictable, precise handling. They lose a LOT of traction at temperatures below 40 degrees. I wear out the rears in about 11,000 miles and the fronts in about 25,000 which is comparable to the wear I got with the factory Pirelli PZero

Just to clarify - top down, high speed driving alone won't knock out the rear windscreen. I have operated my windows multiple times in excess of 140mph. It is actually quite interesting to note the drag effects of lowering a window at high speed. Even cooler is to feel the car slow down when you raise a hand above the windshield. disclaimer: I officially do not recommend driving at speeds that are unsafe. Routine inspection of the clips/window tightness each spring or summer as stated above is a good idea

just a thought - The big turbo bumper cover openings without a 3rd radiator might actually reduce the airflow through the side radiators. If it were me I would remove the front bumper cover and totally clean the radiators. One link is at http://www.realtime.net/~rentner/ - then click Sklyer's Boxster - then click accessing the radiators. If cleaning the radiators doesn't help, and you have to add a 3rd radiator - the work involved appears to relatively straightforward for the home do-it-yourselfer. I have the standard transmission S (includes the center radiator) and have never seen the temperature creep above normal - including 105F track day and 1 hour average speed over 100mph at around 95 degrees. The comparison isn't that good since these were in the low humidity deserts of Arizona and New Mexico.