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I threaded aquarium hose used for bleeding brakes through slots in the screen and sucked out the brake fluid leaving the screen in place.

Stock sway bars are not adjustable. The bar might have a loose bolt at the ends. You may have replaced or missing bushings that clamp the sway bar to the frame(in the middle). These are visible with the belly pan plastic covers on. I had a bushing housing bolt come off once - it clunked.

You might check your wheels.

Handling might be off due to wheels rotated front to back (this happened to me once at the dealer). A wheel could have been dropped and now have a bent rim or a missing wheel weight - but this would probably show up as shimmy/shake rather than a handling issue.

The sway bar doesn't have to come off for the clutch. I don't know if it needs to come off for the axle shafts

If the sway bar and wheels looks ok. you could try Hunter Road force balancing - other than that I think I'd return the car to the mechanic for an explanation.

YMMV - I'm barely a shade tree mechanic. Others may have better advice.

underseat connector?

Hope I'm not missing something obvious here, but it's the cables for the door window that are broken, not the top. I can't see anything in the Boxster top Issues forum about the windows?

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Nope - I was the one who posted like an idiot. :oops:

I really should avoid posting on this forum during the daytime when I'm fully awake <_<

Sounds just like what happened to mine which I have just taken to bits. Cable was snapped, and had become snagged in the 'reel' thing at the back of the motor, hence grinding all the casing away :cursing:

Anyone know whether replacing the cable is a DIY job? Also, can the 'reel' section of the motor assembly be purchased on it's own as I think the motor itself is fine? The only bits that are actually broken are a couple of plastic mouldings and the cable, but I can see this is going to cost me hundreds of pounds!!

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Yes - the cables can be replaced. There is entire sub-forum for Boxter Top Issues and Solutions

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showforum=46

You might get some more data if you have someone read the OBD-II codes.

Normally I'd go for #1, but on a silvery car with grey interior, silvery-gray sidelights, silvery-gray BBS style wheels, gray calipers and clear headlights, I think the Monotone color scheme could be extended to the wheels centers.

Trade in the orange headlight reflector patches for silvervision bulbs and find a monotone hood ornament and you would be making a statement - subtle perhaps, but a statement.

- but then what to I know, I've got a blue car with the old style orange taillights :D

I just put sticky backed velcro on a flat surface behind the switches (center panel next to radio) - matching sticky backed velcro on the remote - and wires from the remote to the new switch.

I haven't had the velcro come loose once in 3 years.

It is about a 15 minute job to change the 9-volt battery - I did it once.

Swaybar to side member (M10 1.5)- 48ftlbs

Swaybar to droplink (M10) - 34ftlbs

Droplink to hub carrier (M12) - 63ftlbs

...

Good Luck,

Graeme

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Are they the same specs for my '02S?

I believe they are 12mm "triple square" bolts (aka "cheesehead" or "12 point inverted").  I'm positive they're triple squares, just not 100% on the 12mm size.  You can get a single triple square or a small (maybe 4 pieces) set at NAPA.

I'm not sure about the Boxster since I have not worked on the flywheel yet, but in the 928 there's not enough room for the long bits that are sold at retail.  I took a Dremel with a cutting wheel to cut it down to a workable length, just in case you run into the same problem.

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I saw these bolts when I replaced the clutch recently - I just didn't have anything in my toolbox that fit them, and I didn't want to wait until after a visit to the auto supply house to reassemble things. This was basically a question for 'next time'

With the car on jackstands and transmission and muffler removed, there is plenty of room to sit upright with with your legs crossed where the transmission used to be. There is room to get a breaker bar and an 8" extension on the end of the "triple square" flywheel bolts and swing your elbows if you need to.

...Aside from the typical difficulty of getting under the car, the entire project is very DIY'able...

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Never having done this, what part of the job required going under the car?

Did you take the seats out, or was there enough room to do the job comfortably with them in?

Call them what you want - they are beautiful wheels, and exactly what I would have purchased if they had been available in late fall 2001 when I ordered my car. When I went in the dealership to pick up my car a few months later, and saw a set of those elegant 5-spoke wheels my jaw dropped. It would be real nice to have the 'stiletto heel' look for the legs of my baby. :thumbup:

Do you happen to know the proper wrench for removing the flywheel bolts? (02 Boxster S)

The tendency to be quiet when cold seems to rule out expensive internal bearing surfaces.

Quiet while cold seems to point to things that 'warm up'. I can't think of anything with the catalytic converters so that seems to leave the water/heater hoses and some parts of the air intake system.

I would check the rear trunk for noises and mist around the coolant cap and overflow tank.

I really don't understand enough about Boxster Exhaust gas recirculation and intake to know where to look but it seems like a cracked throttle body, crossover pipe, etc could be a problem.

Have you checked your ODB-II codes?

I agree with highlander - it's only a month.

Park it as normal. If you lock it, you will need to use the key manually in the door slot to unlock since the key sensor 'goes to sleep' after a couple of days of inactivity.

Flat spots in tires are NOT a problem, they will go away after your tires warm up. Tires take about as long as an engine to warm up.

Even a fully flat tire would not be a big deal if only for a month (unless that month is in full desert sun.)

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I am still looking for a better solution for the reviews section - there are lots of applications out there but very few that are "tune-able".

You can use a credit card to donate - that is, you don't need a PayPal account. Or, you can PM me and I will give you my address (privately) if you want to write a check. A few folks have done that. 

Did you know that you can click on the sub forum links to take you right to Cars for Sale or Parts for Sale? No extra clicks...

And you can "monitor" any forum (or topic) by clicking on "Options" and subscribing to the forum or topic. When you "subscribe" the site will send you an email when new topics (or responses) are posted.

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Actually the reviews section looks a lot better on my screen today. It appears to be rationally formatted. Previously I had broken columns for the posts that were not enclosed in a box so pretty much flowed from one topic to the other.

Donations - good info. When I get a new job, I'll send some money.

Yes I know I can click on the subform "For Sale" links from the main menu - what i can't tell from the main menu is if one or both are updated because the intense blue box doesn't tell me which subforum is updated. As for "subscribing" to the site - I actually like the direct web page browsing experience. This was a minor quibble anyway - i wouldn't have mentioned if It if I hadn't posted about the reviews section.

First off, Thank you.

I like this forum. I enjoy the expansion to aircooled, etc.

If I didn't dislike PayPal, I'd already be a contributing member - but someday.

One section I just don't find useful is the Reviews section- The format is confusing and I believe contributes to the lack of content. Something closer to the navigation, display, and update feel of the rest of the website would be easier for me, and possibly others to use.

P.S.

A minor quibble - why place "Cars for Sale" and "Parts for Sale" in sub menus. With all the choices on the main menu, placing both "Cars" and "Parts" on the main menu would save a click and make it easier to monitor for updates in each section.

.....

Just because a tire is marked with an 'N' doesn't mean you can't do better, or that you can't pick a tire that gives you a desired performance gain in one area versus another.  You just need to know what you're doing and what to expect.  YMMV.

--Brian

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Nicely put Brian. You managed to explain why N rating may be of value to both Porsche and the consumer without recommending slavish addiction to N tires.

Thanks for the balanced contribution.

'01 Boxster Non-S 5 speed 2.7L

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Any chance you have a couple of months left on your 4 year warrantee (meaning a free replacement?)

..

I've also read that for plus weight, 19 causes more understeer and so it's more suitable the choice of 18 wheel....

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The writers of Porsche manuals like understeer. This is probably a result of legal advice.

Most Porsche drivers, especially Boxster drivers, like neutral steering and/or power on oversteer.

IMO you do NOT want understeer and should not choose a tire on the hopes of increasing understeer. In my 02S w/US030 suspension, increasing the front tire pressures from factory recommended 29 PSI to 33 PSI takes out most of the (undesirable) understeer. The behavior of the 987 is similar, but different.

Any one have any suggestions about what to do with snapped bolts at the triangular flanges for the exhaust? (I have 2 broken off)

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If it is like this then a BFH.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ic=1006&hl=stud

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Thanks.

Which seems like the riskier plan... leave it in the car and swing a 3lb sledge at it and possibly break studs holding header to the clyinders at the other end.

or

remove the header to swing at it in a bench vise and possible snap the studs holding header to the clyinders while trying to remove the header.

BTW - what is the torque to reinstall the header (2002 S)

There's a spare muffler for sale over on the Boxster Racing Board

http://www.iq.dynip.com/~racing/index.cgi?read=25792

I'm thinking about getting a new floor jack - one that will work on the Boxster and 997, as well as for my truck ('88 Toyota 1/2 ton pickup).  Any recommendations?  Sears?  Harbor Freight?  I've seen good things about the Harbor Freight aluminum racing jack in the past (at http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...emnumber=91039) and was wondering if that's still good.  Anything else I need?  I seem to remember reading something somewhere a long time ago about a hockey puck...

Loren - I didn't see any jacks in the reviews, but feel to move this if you like

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I have seen that Harbor Freight jack in person and it looks good but is skimpy on lift height. You will probably be much happier with the 17.5in lift of http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...temnumber=47246

This one looks VERY good in person :D

I'd recommend you get a jack that has 3-4 inches more lift than the jack stands you intend to use on the car. I find my 10.5in - 15.5in jack stands to be adequate but could use a few more inches than the 14.5in maximum lift of my floor jack.

P.S. after about 20 uses, my hockey puck is badly split - almost bad enough to make me walk over to the cabinet and get out my spare hockey puck :)

Now that I reread your post, I can see that I was picturing the exhaust pipe end of the headers, not the block end. I'll amend my suggestion and defer to having the studs loosened and repaired as needed by a reliable shop.

Any one have any suggestions about what to do with snapped bolts at the triangular flanges for the exhaust? (I have 2 broken off)

Hi,

      Is the bolt broken at the head, flush with the surface of the head?  If so, as mentioned an 'Easy Out' is likely your best bet. If the bolt shaft is broken below the head surface, you may not be able to use the 'Easy Out' because drilling the bolt shaft could damage the tap in the Head.  You need to be VERY careful in drilling the broken bolt shaft.  Make sure you use a starter punch and align it squarely on the bolt shaft.  If you don't, there a high likelyhood that your drill bit will wander and take out the threads in the Head.

      If you screw it up, it'll cost $$$$. You will likely need to helicoil it and this could be somewhat tenuous given the location, high-temp environment and the torque value.  Unless you have a lot of experience (and no offense, it doesn't sound like it, just from the nature of your post),  since the car runs, I'd suggest having this done at a shop.  I think you'll be better off.

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

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It has been my experience on american cars that ALL header bolts and studs break as the heat advances rust and destroys the threaded rod. Extremely rusty exhaust bolts (unlike say headbolts), not only snap but tend to 'weld' themselves into place so that easy out techniques don't seem to work. The boxster seems to be no different.

There is ample space and access for bolt/nut sets. Replacing a stud with a stud, especially after helicoil, pretty much guarantees you will break it again next time you need to take apart the system.

This has to be one of the most common problems seen by a muffler shop, what do they usually do? Cut off the flange?