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RFM

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Everything posted by RFM

  1. If you have got no problems before the tire change, a good chance that the new ones are the culprit than.
  2. I would check the fuel system first, if the car have no fault codes. Since the car will turn over, the ignition and clutch/brake switch looks OK.
  3. There is no difference between the driver and passenger window, they act the same.
  4. Run a ROW Euro-norm 3 program on the DME. The pre cat. O2 sensors have to stay in place, the cats can be dropped and no cel light will come on.
  5. Have not tried yet, but i cant see way not, the seats and the rails have the same measurements IMHO.
  6. I'm surprised why Americans put money in a ordinary M 96 street motor, you can see that the distance between the rear crankshaft bearing and the flange, is too large. The acting oscillation by a small imbalance has since the introduction of the engine problems ( one of the RMS causes ) M 96 construction is too weak to be powered. Nobody use this type of engine for track here, they all use GT2 and GT3 based engines, for the more rigid crankcase and shaft. X-51 and a little more will be OK for a reasonable M 96 engine lifetime, but not too much. Just my opinion.
  7. The wiring will crack inside the insulation approx. 1 cm under the rubber grommet which is connected on the wheel arch. ( part between the strut and and the wheel arch ) You have to cut the insulator, inclusive the grommet, open to see the break.
  8. Trey a new system wake up first, lock the doors with the remote, open the doors with the remote, engine idling, trey again. Good chance that the seat heaters will work. PIWIS is needed to do the job.
  9. It's a lot easier with the seats out of the car to change the complete switch, to replace the button only, the seat can stay in place.
  10. The switch looks OK, but the button is not available separately IMHO. You can buy a new switch and only use the button or replace the complete switch after removing the side trim ( only some screws and the up/down lever )
  11. It's pretty normal that some oil leave the hydraulic lifters after a week of stand still, just keep an eye on it, it become a problem if the noise is there while daily driving.
  12. Replace the mounts as well, it's not that expensive and reduce other noises.
  13. Depends on type and MY of the car.
  14. Except a button, there are no other spare parts available for PCM.
  15. Castrol SRF is more than a good alternative.
  16. There is a TSB for the problem IMHO. The problem is in the Master cylinder ( on the pedal ) Just replace the master cylinder.
  17. If the level is OK and the hydraulic fluid is Porsche approved, than check the gear box on fault codes. A slight hesitation between second and third gear is typical for ZF Tiptronic's but they do it all of the time and not only when cold.
  18. I should check the oil level again to start with, car in perfect horizontally possition and Tiptronic temp. below 40° C.
  19. The AC drain is located for LHD cars, above the trim behind the glove box. Perhaps the same for RHD.
  20. Could be anything, relay - micro switch ( es ) - control box - mechanical issue etc. Let the car check on fault codes, if not it is guessing.
  21. It is possible to order a Cayenne ( S ) air suspension with what you call Turbo cluster, in fact it's called Premium cluster, as an option. All Turbo's have air suspension here, i never have seen a Cayenne ( S ) with steel suspension with this type of cluster. Anyway it's a matter of programming, do what Loren suggest.
  22. Use the same route as the licence plate illumination wiring to get in the car.
  23. Replace the wiper arm, problem solved.
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