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flyingpenguin

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Everything posted by flyingpenguin

  1. flyingpenguin
    Loren, Any specific hoses that need to be removed for a complete drain? Thanks, Joost
  2. flyingpenguin
    Thanks Loren. Will I be needing spring compressors? JP
  3. flyingpenguin
    Hi there, I just ordered the H&R coil-over and sway bar package for my 2000 996 C2: HR 29510-1 HR (98-04) 996 Full Suspension Coilovers HR 70513 (996) HR (98 and up) 996 Front Sway Bar 71513 (996) HR (98 and up) 996 Rera Sway Bar I searched for a DIY specific to this set-up, but only found a DIY on the M030 install. I am not concerned about the actual install work itself; I'll figure it out. I just want to make sure that the kit I ordered contains all the parts I need. The guys at horsepowerfreaks.com assured me it is complete, but would like to avoid any nasty surprises during next weekend's install. Has anyone of you done this before? Looking forward to your comments. Regards, Joost
  4. flyingpenguin
    Hi, If you search for "~~DIY Suspension Install for Dummies~~~ " on rennlist.com you will find what you need. Good luck. Joost
  5. flyingpenguin
    Hi there, Apart from whether this method described here is ideal or not, I have another problem with it. It generates unnecessary waste. Whether as a 50/50 antifreeze (mostly ethylene glycol = toxic, see :http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethylene_glycol#Toxicity) or as a watered down version, you still cannot flush it through your toilet, and it will need to get disposed of properly no matter what. Let's do the math: - Assuming you are able to evacuate the entire cooling system by removing under panels, hoses etc. you will end up with approx. 6 gal. of waste. - In the procedure above I count a total of 6 times removing 2 gal. = 12 gal of waste (albeit more diluted). I just ordered the UView Airlift II for $72 delivered from Amazon.com and will give it a try this weekend. Loren: Having mixed orginal Porsche coolant with Prestone premix (ooh ignorant me), would it make sense to use a product like Prestone Super Radiator Cleaner, high in chelating agents, before refilling with Dex-cool? Joost
  6. flyingpenguin
    You're right. It is very tight in there and removing the serpentine / alternator creates an extra "hole" to access the bolt on the left that attaches the starter motor to the engine. I guess you can alway start out just removing the TB and if it does not work, remove the serpentine / alternator. It worked weel for me. Joost
  7. flyingpenguin
    Thanks george996 and kbrandsma for your comments. The new flywheel is in and the car runs perfect. I am very happy with the result and would do it again in a heartbeat, although it took me considerably more time than expected. All in all about 10-12 hours, but it was a good learing experience. Because of your concerns about jackstands I bought a set of 4 double locking 12 ton (!) stands at Northern Tool, as well as their 1.5 ton transmission jack. Once I got the car about 2ft in the air, working underneath the car was a breeze. Getting the transmission jack underneath the transmission and getting it to lift in such a way that the transmission slides off easily was tricky. I recommend attaching it as far away from the bell housing as possible (ie. towards the front of the car) and use the jack's swiveling action to maneuver it around. If you take the passenger side rear wheel off, you can get to bolt #1 with a 16mm ratcheting box wrench. Like one of the many neighbors that came by this weekend commented, it's like milking a mouse :lol: , but probably quicker than removing the throttle body. While the tranny was out I took the opportunity to replace the transmission oil as well, so no worries on that one for the next 30K miles or so. Sorry I did not take any pictures. Maybe next time. Joost
  8. flyingpenguin
    Hi, I replaced my starter motor about a month ago and had the transmission out to replace the DMF with a SMF this weekend after the old DMF was resurfaced during a clutch kit replacement (clutch disc, pressure plate and throw out bearing) last week by my mechanic and came back out of balance. Unless you drop the engine, you cannot get to the starter motor with the tranny out. You'll need to remove the serpentine belt, alternator, throttle body and intake plenum (the T-shaped tube) to get to the starter motor. There is a good write up on that here on renntech. Your DMF looks pretty scorched. Mine looked better and the shop recommended a resurface, which was a mistake (although they warned me before hand). If you have to replace your flywheel, I highly recommend replacing it with the AASCO light weight fly wheel (SMF). This unit runs about USD 950 delivered in the US from horsepowerfreaks.com. I put everything together yesterday and the engine revs much more freely, acceleration is brisker etc. You have to put up with a bit more transmission chatter, and rev-matching (even in the upshifts) is something you need to (quickly learn to) master. BTW: I used the standard SACHS clutch kit with the AASCO SMF and it works fine. Good luck. Joost
  9. flyingpenguin
    It seems that the post copied over from rennlist is incorrect as far as ZDDP is concerned. Mobil 1 15W-50 has 1200 ppm phosphorous (which is how they measure ZDDP). That is 20% more than what's in the recommended Mobil 1 0W-40! The last couple of oil changes I did half/half Mobil 1 0W-40 / 15W-50 (non-EP), about every 8-10K miles. I am in Houston and track the car quite a bit (high temp / high shear is important to me), so my next oil change will be Mobil 1 15W-50 EP all the way. It seems ExxonMobil is picking up on the chatter about phsphorous. Here's a chart I downloaded from their site: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorO...oduct_Guide.pdf Curious to see what others are doing. Joost :renntech:
  10. flyingpenguin
    I just completed a tranny in / out to put in the AASCO light flywheel. What a difference 15 lbs make! Engine revs more quickly and the car seems to be accelerating faster. I used a simple clutch alignment tool from Kingsborne Automotive that I can highly recommend (no affliliation here): http://www.clutchtools.com/index.php?productID=40065 It says its for the Boxster but works fine on a 2000 996 C2. I assume that is the case on later models a well (Loren?). Regards, Joost
  11. flyingpenguin
    I am looking to do a clutch job on my 2000 996 C2 and it seems like kbrandsma knows what he's doing. I have two concerns: - Without a lift, how high of a clearance would you need to do this job on jack stands? - The special 3 square 10 mm bolt. Which one is it? Can you indicate it on the attached picture of the G36 transmission? Thanks, Joost
  12. flyingpenguin
    Last time trying to squeeze thick transmission oil through a small clear tube into the filler hole, I spilled quite a bit and got tire of the squeezing. Any recommended tool / pump? RGDS, JP
  13. flyingpenguin
    Quick update. received the parts and installed the wiring. All is working well. I am curious as to how accurate the average MPG indicator is. Regards, JP
  14. flyingpenguin
    Update: Turns out that the squeal at start-up was caused by the starter. I took it out and took it apart. The bushing that's holding the axle at the back end was not lubricated anymore. A little high-temp grease fixed the problem. JP
  15. flyingpenguin
    Hi there, Here are two links to good write-ups on installing a toggle switch on the dashboard. Not as sophisticated as the mod that adds the fourth stalk, but simple and effective. http://www.whiteson.org/boxster/mods/obc/ http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/b...box_obd_mod.htm The VW part described in the whiteson.com write-up is hard to come by, so I am going with the one from pelicanparts.com. Digikey.com has the molex connectors in stock and I paid about $15 (postage and handling included) for 10 units, although you only need two. Radioshack sells the 22 gauge wire for about $5 per roll and they have a 81 piece set of wire connectors, including the ones you need for this project for about $10. Porsche of North Houston has the switch on order for me for about $45 incl. tax. All in all I should have the OBC mod working for less than $75 and an hour's work. Let me know if you need any help. Rgds, Joost :renntech:
  16. flyingpenguin
    Question for Loren: With opinions all over the map as to the effectiveness of these Y-shaped intake plenums, I am weary to drop $8-900 on a piece of metal (even though I have gotten used to the prices of P-parts by now). My thought: Could the same effect (smoother air-inflow) be achieved by a simple mod in the existing plastic plenum? I am thinking of cutting and bending a piece of sheet aluminum to fit in the middle of the T and attach it with a couple of rivets. Does this make sense and has anyone tried this? Looking forward to your thoughts. Regards, Joost :renntech:
  17. flyingpenguin
    Loren, As always your valuable insight is much appreciated. Last time I changed the tranny oil, I remember the fill and drain plugs were up for replacement next time. Do you have part numbers for these two items? Regards JP Why would the plugs need replacing? Or are you planning on damaging them? Porsche even says to reuse the sealing washer on the fill plug. The hole where the wrench goes in is starting to go. I gues the previous owner was not as careful as I would have wanted him to be. JP
  18. flyingpenguin
    Loren, As always your valuable insight is much appreciated. Last time I changed the tranny oil, I remember the fill and drain plugs were up for replacement next time. Do you have part numbers for these two items? Regards JP
  19. flyingpenguin
    See if you can get your hands on a Durametric cable and check the idle rpm's. Often times the throttle body gets fouled up with crank case return fumes and idling becomes rough. A simple removal of the air box provides access to the throttle body and cleaning with a bit of carb cleaner and rags around the butterfly valve will usually do the job. Rgds, JP
  20. flyingpenguin
    I should add that my engine is almost new: it was replaced in August 2006 and has approx. 20K miles on it since replacement.
  21. flyingpenguin
    I have a similar howling / squealing problem at cold start-up (and cold-start-up only). My Durametric indicates that there may be a vacuum leak on bank 2 (RKAT adaptation values are off: 0.19 for bank1 and -0.28 for bank2). The folks at Durametric have been very helpful pointing out possible sources of the vacuum leak: 1. Spark plug tubes 2. Oil/air separator 3. Oil air separator tub that runs to the opposite side of the block. 4. Intake manifold above alternator I have the following questions: (1) Is this list of causes exhaustive? (2) Where can I find any procedures/steps to verify/exclude any of these causes? Your insights are much appreciated. Rgds, Joost 2000 996 C2 (USA)
  22. flyingpenguin

    The valve actuators are hydraulic, so witht a thicker oil (5W50 vs 0W-40) you may not get a full "lift" resulting in the ticking noise you described. From many posts I have read on oil for the 996, the 0W-40 is the best all-round solution. Thicker oil should only be use in year-round warm climates (+10 Celsius).

    Hope this helps.

    Joost

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