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clickman

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Everything posted by clickman

  1. clickman
    Long story short, I managed to hook up the battery the wrong way round. For a couple of minutes. I've had the battery out of the car for a couple months. (It's been hooked up to a battery maintainer until a few days ago while I moved it to another car.) After I hooked the battery up in the car backwards, I corrected that and then measured the voltage across the battery terminals at just under 13V. I started the car and ran it for half an hour. (Stereo dead, but no CEL). The voltage across the battery dropped from just under 14V at the start to around 13.25V at the end of the half hour. Alternator toast?
  2. clickman
    I don't understand the need to mark the cables if you've got the alignment tool. When I put in my 9x7 short shifter, I had it in neutral with the tool in place, then just plunked the cables into their slots...
  3. clickman
    Out of curiosity, when you took off the IMS flange, had you done something to lock the internals in place to keep them from shifting? I remember reading a thread somewhere where the guy hadn't done that and the chains slipped on the sprocket(s).
  4. clickman
    I trust a detailed DIY will be forthcoming, including pics! :renntech:
  5. clickman
    Circuit Solutions on eBay
  6. clickman
    Just got back from 4 days on the road with the new shifter. Lots of windy terrain so it got lots of use. The jury is still out. 1st to 2nd is the toughest shift - takes a pretty good pull. I seem to recall reading somewhere that 1-2 is usually the toughest with any Boxster shifter. The other gears aren't bad now, as far as my perception, anyways. 4-5 is a bit of a crapshoot - sometimes great and sometimes I have to hunt for it a bit. I wasn't quite sure what some people meant by a "gated" feel; now I think I do. There's still no banging from one gear to the next. But the shifts are a lot more positive. Another weird thing I noticed was that with the shift handle on my MY01, the offset, oval type, it almost feels like the axis of the head is off line with the shift directions. All part of getting used to it, I guess.
  7. clickman
    Well, I installed my new 9x7 short shifter yesterday. No adjustment required on the cables, as when I put the new tower in with the alignment tool snapped on, the cables just fell into the right place to be pushed down into their retainers. Wow, what a difference. From loose and sloppy to short and almost too tight. It does take a lot more force to move the stick. Just out of curiosity, has anyone that's put one in noticed that it's loosened up a bit with wear? geoff? PS I found out that the old shifter was actually broken. Where the cable assembly attaches on the left side, the little black retainer doohickey was broken off. Probably from an old "Volkswagen" shift into reverse...
  8. clickman
    Largely based on geoff's experience, I just bought the short shifter from Suncoast for $282. Aaron was great to deal with. Can't wait to get it into my 5-speed. I've always thought the stock shifter was way too sloppy, and as it's such a constant interface between car and driver, I've finally decided to do something about it. I've tried the stock 9x7 shifter and found it still wasn't short enough, and also the B&M in a 6-spd and thought it was way too notchy. Installation questions: I think the flat green piece should be left out, but has anyone had any problems down the road from doing that? The shifter comes with the snap-on alignment tool, but it sounds like it's not needed as long as the current setup is good. Is that true, or should I be double-checking with the tool after installation? Thanks
  9. clickman
    Fixing non-functional key fob switches The credit for this goes to Kendo on 986forum, but I thought it might be worth posting in the DIY section here. I tried it and it worked for me. Kendo: For those that have just had the tactile switch fail and want to replace it it can be found at Mouser Electronics for $0.60 each. Tactile switch The item you want is figure "C" 101-TF25R-EV (at least this is true for the three button key FOB head on my 2004 key). I used the 400 gf switch for my failed unlock button, but comparing the opera Author clickman Category Boxster (986) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 06/27/2009 08:40 AM
  10. clickman
    The credit for this goes to Kendo on 986forum, but I thought it might be worth posting in the DIY section here. I tried it and it worked for me. Kendo: For those that have just had the tactile switch fail and want to replace it it can be found at Mouser Electronics for $0.60 each. Tactile switch The item you want is figure "C" 101-TF25R-EV (at least this is true for the three button key FOB head on my 2004 key). I used the 400 gf switch for my failed unlock button, but comparing the operating force to the stock switches I think 300 gf would be closer to correct. BTW the description says it is a thru-hole part. This is incorrect it is surface mount as shown in the picture. De-Soldering and soldering this piece is easy. Just use a soldering pencil (get one at radio shack cheap) rather than a soldering gun.
  11. clickman
    After having some work done on my car at the stealership the other day, my key fob wouldn't let me back into the locked car. They say it was that way when it came in. Hmm. Anyways, the LED wouldn't light, so they changed the battery. The LED blinked, but still no joy on the doors or trunks. I have another remote on which the door button doesn't work (never has), but the trunks still work now. So I've ordered some tactile switches and will replace the non-functioning door switch, which should give me a working fob. The question I have is, the dealer wants to try to reprogram the non-functional fob. Will that render my partially-working fob inactive? I.e. would they both have to be done, presumably for twice the cost?
  12. clickman
    Jake, I wasn't trying to denigrate your product. I was just discussing options and cost. In fact, I'm thrilled there is someone out there that's offering an improved alternative that addresses the engines' shortcomings. I've even been tempted by the thought of making a vacation out of driving to Atlanta to have the IMS fix done (I believe it's only available at your shop so far).
  13. clickman
    I had always thought the only options in the case of a blown engine were to get a new/reman engine from Porsche or take your chances with one from a wrecker. (Flat6Innovations now offer good rebuilt engines, but they appear to be at Porsche prices.) Talking to the tech at our local stealer (who BTW says he sees blown IMS regularly), they now offer engines they rebuild themselves for CAN $6000. I didn't ask at the time if this included the in/out labour.
  14. clickman
    Can you now get parts from them north of the border without having to give them enough personal information to make the privacy gurus blush?
  15. clickman
    Why the reciever/dryer too? Why the cleaning? Thanks
  16. clickman
    Well I just found out the local stealer wants $2100 Can for the compressor, not to mention the labour. Any chance it could just be the serpentine belt getting worn out? signed, Praying North of the 49th
  17. clickman
    I've got a thrumming (about 2 per second) coming from the engine compartment. It only seems to show up when the engine is warm. When I took all the access panels off, I found the noise coming from the A/C clutch or compressor. The snowflake was on, and when I turned it off, the thrumming mostly went away, but was still there faintly. Is this just the clutch, or is the entire compressor toast? If it is the clutch, can it be replaced without pulling the compressor? (My Bentley manual doesn't cover that.) Will Porsche sell just the clutch? Thanks. Norm 2001 Boxster 2.7, 5 speed, Canada
  18. clickman
    Lordco. CT had their own that cost $30 more and which they were out of stock of. I'm connecting mine directly to the battery.
  19. clickman
    This is my first winter storage. The car has a Moll Kamina 580 42 80Ah battery, and I just got a CTEK Multi US 3300 smart charger. I want to leave the battery in the car and hooked up while the charge is attached and running. I plan to run the car every couple weeks or so to circulate fluids. Any issues? thx Norm 2001 Boxster, 5 spd
  20. clickman
    As usual I should have been more clear. I was actually wondering if the bushings that come with the shortest shift kit, say the B&M, fit the stock shifter. Thanks.
  21. clickman
    Hi TP, thanks for the suggestion. I checked it out on the Pelican site (and one other): the Evo "Swift Shift" claims a 20-30% shorter throw. The stock 9x7 shifter is basically the same, at 25%, based on the measurements Halo made. It seems like the only way to find out is try one. If I do install a SSK, are the bushings that come with it able to be used on the stock shifter if I want to go back? Thanks
  22. clickman
    Please, Halo, share ASAP!
  23. clickman
    Ok so I went to the dealership and tried the shifter in a 987 non-S, with the engine running but not fully warmed up. The throws were definitely shorter than the 986. 15%? I wouldn't have said 25%. (I didn't measure.) But it's still not short enough IMHO. There was more notchiness, although that might go away some once the tranny is warmed up. Other than the notchiness, the shift effort wasn't noticeably heavier. So for me the questions now are: What's the difference between the 986 and 987 short shift kits? Is there a short shift kit that's "reversible" if I really don't like it? Thanks.
  24. clickman
    Thanks for the reply, geoff. I should have referred to this in my original post, but is the shifter you installed the "standard" or the stock short shifter for the 997/987? (just to confuse things further) Edit: Never mind, after 2 more seconds work I see in your link that it was the factory short shift kit. I'm curious about the "997 shift console upgrade" PN 99742401000, on this link: http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant...ry_Code=986Tran
  25. clickman
    I've been toying with the idea of upgrading my '01 5 spd to a short shifter ever since I got the car almost 2 years ago. I've always thought the shifting was something you'd expect in a Rabbit, not a Boxster. But I've always been concerned about overt notchiness and what appeared to be an unreversible install once the bushings were broken out. This new shifter might be the one for me. Are those of you that have done it in a 986 happy with it? Can anyone comment on how "short" the shifts are in comparison to stock at one end and and say the B&M at the other? And also shift effort Pls let me know if your comments relate to the "standard" shifter (997 424 010 00?) or the "short throw" shifter (997 424 983 00). Thanks. Norm 2001 Boxster, Seal Grey, 5 spd
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