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Wayne R. Dempsey

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Everything posted by Wayne R. Dempsey

  1. I haven't double-checked the information provided by others, but I checked the electrical diagrams when writing the book, and came up with the mappings used here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/catalog/shopcart/BE39_catalog.htm Hope you find this useful... -Wayne
  2. Bingo Richard, running "Sports Car Handover" on the PST-2 fixed the problem! Cool beans - a *lot* of expert people I talked to didn't have the answer to that one! Thanks! :) -Wayne
  3. It was a Torx on mine - just looked it up in PET, it looks like they changed the screw type somewhere around 2001 to a different style of screw. So, it looks like we're both right! :) -Wayne
  4. THAT'S CRAZY! I sell these horns for something like $8 each - he's ripping you off. They are the same as some VW or Audi part. Easy to replace, here's a tech article on taking the bumper off: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/68-BODY-Front_Bumper_-_Wheel_Liner/68-BODY-Front_Bumper_-_Wheel_Liner.htm Let me know if you have any questions... -Wayne
  5. Thanks Wayne, Does the Dansk S muffler drone or resonate? Bill Nope, it's pretty solid. I didn't have any complaints about it, but then again, I didn't drive with it on very long before we swapped in the Fabspeed exhaust... -Wayne
  6. I think the airbag retaining frame is a pretty cheap replacement part too, if you want a new one. Here's a tech article I wrote on getting the steering wheel off (http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/62-SUSPEN-Steering_Wheel/62-SUSPEN-Steering_Wheel.htm) - not covered in the linked DIY above... -Wayne
  7. It's pretty easy to drop the sump and look further (http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/12-ENGINE-deep_sump/12-ENGINE-deep_sump.htm). I would do that if you're concerned... -Wayne
  8. I believe it was about 2005 or 2006, so I would suspect your engine would have the old bearing in it. My new engine had the new bearing in it, I think it was rebuilt 2007 or 2008... -Wayne
  9. This is somewhat common with vacuum leaks on older cars. At cold temps, the hoses contract and seal fine. At warmer temps, they expand and create leaks. I would check for vacuum leaks, a smoke machine is very useful for that (http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/21-FUEL-Vacuum_Leaks/21-FUEL-Vacuum_Leaks.htm). -Wayne
  10. Try getting someone with a PST2 to reset the codes - the Durametric tool is handy, but no replacement for the real deal... -Wayne
  11. You can also order these (from Pelican if you'd like), part number 996-610-217-02-OEM. I just got one for my 2000 Boxster. -Wayne
  12. WAYNE I have attached three prong stalk.Have cut of switch and do not know which wires go where on grey switch ins cluster.Can you help. Wire colours are White\black-green-blue-grey-white. Thanks; Swampy Please be more specific on your question, I don't understand? -Wayne
  13. I've got the same problem with my 996, and I've been trying to fix it for a long time. I haven't tried the "Sports Car Handover" routine with the PST2, I will have to try that tomorrow. -Wayne
  14. There is a difference in hose sizing from the Boxster 'S' and the normal non-S cars. You need to "down-convert" your hoses to the smaller diameter size if you are installing the third radiator on a non-S car. I cover this completely in my tech article (http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/31-WATER-Center_Radiator/31-WATER-Center_Radiator.htm) - the other tech articles available on the net don't cover this aspect for us non-S owners. Hope this helps, Wayne
  15. There's a gazillion hoses to replace. I would inspect them and see if they are cracking before replacing them. Literally, there are like 20-30 hoses if you replace every single one. I have a full tech article on it here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/30-WATER-Hoses/30-WATER-Hoses.htm Hope this helps, Wayne
  16. I'm not sure - BOSCH may have a different methodology for their part numbers. You are right, you need the 125.01 part number for your car. -Wayne
  17. It's actually a Torx bolt. Sometimes an Allen tool will work, but often it will strip it out if it's in there really tight. -Wayne
  18. Man, I'm the world's biggest promoter of DIY stuff, but this rear window is not something I would recommend touching unless you have really strong fingers, hours of time, and ton of patience! The rear window on the 3-Series was a bear, and that sucker simply zipped in! Sewing a window will be very difficult - the material is very thick and not easy to work with. The alternative I recommend is the roof replacement with the glass rear window. You'll never have to replace your annoying plastic window ever again. Here's the link to the article I wrote about installing the top with the glass window: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/70-BODY-Convertible_Glass_Window/70-BODY-Convertible_Glass_Window.htm Hope this helps, Wayne
  19. Hi surs. It does seem very suspect. If you want to get this guy fired too, you can let his boss know that he's offering to buy cars outside of the dealership - HUGE conflict of interest for everyone!!! As for your bearing, I have a 13,000 140-photo article that explains everything that can go wrong with the bearing, and what is needed to fix it. Link: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing.htm If your car is located in Los Angeles, then I recommend you have it towed over to Callas Rennsport, and they won't screw you over like they sound like they are trying to do at this dealership. Hope this helps, Wayne
  20. While that is true, the actual pressure plate springs begin to stretch and wear out too. That is why you can have a perfectly good clutch disc with a bad clutch, because the pressure plate is worn out. When performing a clutch replacement, you should change the disc, the pressure plate, and the throw-out bearing all at once because they all seem to wear at different, but similar intervals. -Wayne
  21. Yup, this was a standard broken tank on the backside. Very common and one of the more popular articles on our site (http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/33-WATER-Coolant_Tank/33-WATER-Coolant_Tank.htm) -Wayne
  22. I had a crack in the "manifold" at the back of the tank, and I came up with a cheap, easy and effective solution. See photo 6 in my coolant tank replacement article: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/33-WATER-Coolant_Tank/33-WATER-Coolant_Tank.htm The leak you describe is definitely in the area of this manifold on the backside of the tank. -Wayne
  23. Yes, you can swap out the 'S' for the non-S and vice versa, but 987 mufflers will not work on 986 cars without some effort and cutting. I've got an article where I show replacing a stock system with a 'S' muffler here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/46-EXHAUST-Muffler/46-EXHAUST-Muffler.htm -Wayne
  24. I agree. If there is that much stuff in the filter, there is probably more in the sump. Take a look at what my sump looked like in the article link I just posted. Pretty nasty! -Wayne
  25. I posted those photos as promised, in my Intermediate Shaft Bearing article: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing.htm Check them out and see how they compare to yours... -Wayne
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