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Try logging on to Autopia Car Care, they have a lot of good step by step instructions. I start by washing the car with Meguiars NXT Wash, washing can cause a lot of damage if its not done carefully, dirt trapped in the sponge, wash mit or chamois can ruin clearcoat. I have a bucket of carwash Meguiars NXT and another bucket of clean water. I hose off as much loose dirt as possible and then wash the top sections of the bodywork using a washmit, rinsing it after every panel. I have separate sponges for lower body panels and another for wheels. I dry using a microfibre towel, rinsing this after each panel. Most polish makers sell a claybar kit, I use Meguiars QuikClay, it comes with a bottle of detailing liquid and a claybar, instructions are on the box. The first time you use this you will be amazed at how much stuff comes off your paint work. Then I use a cleaner with the orbital sander, followed by a polish with the orbital sander and finally hand polish with Meguiars NXT. I dont do this every time I wax the car, just when I can see light swirls or scratches. When I use the orbital I only use light pressure and usually not at top RPM. I am sure others will have slightly different methods and use different brands of polish but this system works for me. The important part is not doing more damage each time you wash the car by rubbing dirt into the clearcoat. After washing use light pressure with the orbital sander and the minimum amount of polishing to achieve the result you want. Hope this helps, post some photos so we can see the final result. Glenn One more VERY important note. If you should happen to drop the clay on the ground, throw it away and get a new piece. The clay will get little pieces of dirt/sand in it that you may not even be able to feel that will ruin your paint. Good luck. Will

I have the Griots package as well. I love it. If you order the kit that comes with the polisher, clay, speed shine, polish and wax you get a free detailing book and DVD. It tells you how to do everything. It's pretty easy to do, but it does take some time. I enjoy doing it so the time doesn't bother me.

Thanks for the comments. In my case my car rides much better on the 18 inch wheels. However, I can't say how much of that is simply due to having new tires that actually have tread on them! I went from Pilot Sports to Pilot Sports so that is not a variable. My car had really gotten to the point that the ride was pretty harsh on bad roads. Now it is much smoother. My wheels are 18x8 front and 18x11 rear so they are taller and wider than stock. I had no fitment issues what so ever with the proper offsets. The rears are monsters! I'm going to keep my stock wheels and reload them if I decide to start doing DE's. Will

Thanks for the link. I had reviewed it while I was searching for my answer. I would definately wire for the heated seats in my case. One thing that I'm not clear on is for a 996 the tip switches go in the batwing. Does that mean it is not necessary to remove the center console? It appears that the only reason it gets removed is to run the wires to the switches on the Boxter. That being said, I really need to make sure that I don't have to re wire the entire seat to get the functions I already have to work. Thanks. Will

I've read through the many postings regarding seat changes, but didn't find an answer to my question. I currently have supple leather, full power with memory seats in my 99 996 cab. The seats are showing a fair amount of cracking. I understand that on the early model 996s Porsche used a thicker leather that was subject to this type of cracking if the seats were not conditioned regularly. Anyhow, I have found some seats from a 2003 (post recall) 996 that are full power, memory but also have lumbar adjustment and are heated. I think I am correct in thinking that to use the lumbar and heat I would have to do some additional wiring. My question is if I don't want to connect the lumbar and heat is this a simple plug and play switch or is the entire harness different and the whole thing would need to be rewired? Thanks. Will

I needed to replace my tires and figured while I was at it I would upgrade to 18 inch wheels. I bought them from a place called Wheel Dynamics. I would highly recommend these guys. Customer service was outstanding and pricing was very reasonable. Here are some before and after pictures. Before: After: Comments welcome. Will

The carpet can be dyed no matter what color it is. This would not be a DIY job for me, but there are plenty of places that do this kind of work. Not sure what the cost would be. Seems like I saw something on the PCA website about a company that sells Porsche color matched dye. Will

You have already been told the 2 ways to prevent it. Putting in fresh oil will not eliminate it from coming back. The cause of sludge is moisture and/or contaminants in the oil. If you drive your car for short trips that do not allow the temperature to rise to normal for a length of time, you will not remove the moisture in the oil that accumulated during the last engine shut down, High relative humidity increases the amount of moisture entering the engine as it cools. I understand the advice that was given. That being said, you can't control the weather and don't always drive your car 100 miles everytime it leaves the garage. I will admit that there are many time that I take my car out on quick trips to the store, so I will stop doing that as often. So the question is, is there anything else recommended to help with this situation. The answer may very well be no. Thanks again. Will

Thanks for the replys. Sounds like it could very well be a weather related moisture issue. Our climate here has been crazy with temps in the 60's one week to snow and freezing temps the next and back. Is there anything that Porsche recommends to deal with this? An oil additive or something. At next oil change should I have the oil system flushed? Sounds like this may not be too uncommon of an issue. Thanks again. Will

Was messing with the car (1999 C2 Cab 64k miles no RMS issues to date) today and opened the oil fill cap and noticed a yellow/green (sorry, I'm color blind) goo (not sticky, but the consistency of say hand cream) inside the filler tube. My first thought was this isn't good and opened the coolant cap. No sign of anything unusual there. Fluid looks clean and clear. Is this normal? Anything else I should look for? Thanks for your help. Will

On a 11x18 wheel, Porsche recommends either a 285/30 or 295/30 tire according to the TSB. Not sure that the tire width would be any different on a 19 inch wheel. However, you may have clearance issues using these profiles on a larger wheel. Have you tried fitting the wheels on your car as is? Do you have clearance/rubbing issues? Just looked at the TSB for a 997 and the only tire they show for a 11x19 wheel is a 305/30/19. This is for a 997 C4 and C4S. Will

I just paid $2161 for a very outstanding job at painting and fitting the complete factory Aerokit on my 2001 996. It included the two rocker panels, the front bumper, the rear deck lid and putting in it the complete hardware (fans, wiring, etc.) from the older lid on this one and, lastly but not least, the GT fins at the bottom of the rear bumper. Not only that, this company also painted my black rubber bumperettes and, in the interior of the car, also painted the instrument surround, rear center console (the big one that holds the shifter and parking brake) and the "horseshoe" area, which is the part where the radio, A/C vents etc. are located. All of these parts were painted Speed Yellow, which is a standard color and may be cheaper than the color you might want. Therefore, if you are using a standard color, I think $2900 for just the Aerokit is a bit high. Otherwise, find out how much more is the metallic paint, if this is what you'll be using, and compare this to the price I told you to make a decision. I hope this helped a little bit. Good luck and let us know how it turns out. :) Thanks for that. I thought the price I got was a little high. My car is a non metallic color, so that shouldn't be the difference. I called this shop because they have done these installs before. Don't really think I want mine to be the first! This will be phase II. Phase I will be the new wheels I have on the way. I'll post some before and after pics as I proceed. Thanks again.

Any help...please. Thanks.

No it's the piece that surrounds those popup. The piece that goes right acoss the back seats (above and behind them). Getting one from salvage is exactly what I am trying to do. But finding one is not easy when you dont know how to explain what it is or what its called. I never see one offered on ebay either. That makes a little more since. Can you take a picture and email it to the salvage guys? How hard would it be to have yours recovered? Don't think that matching the color would be too hard.

Had side skirts painted 4 months ago, $200 in a high end shop. I provided the paint code and installed them after they were painted. Is the price U got qouted include the installation also? I am going to instal the car graphics front end spoiler and lip again $200. Did you replace the front bumper. Then I can see paying more! The price I got includes painting of all aerokit parts (front nose/spoiler, side skirts, rear spoiler and GT side trims and installation of all parts. I don't have a break down of paint vs install.

Just curious what others have paid recently for paint and install of a factory aerokit. I got a quote of $2,900, but honestly don't have any idea if that is good or bad. Thanks in advance. Will

Thanks for that. The search is now on ;) Is this piece that you are referring to the little rectangular shaped piece that covers the pop up roll bars? If so, $300 are you kidding me!!! Porsche has outdone themselves with that price. Bet you could get one from one of the salvage yards a lot cheaper than that.

Sorry if this is a repeat question, but I searched and could not find my answer. I have found some wheels that I like for my 99 C2 Cab. They are (f) 18x8et 50mm and ® 18x11et 63mm. I would run 225x40x18 on the front and 285x30x18 on the rear. Any issues with this set up on my car? Thanks in advance for your help. Will

I have no personal experience with them, but you can try www.gahh.com. Looks like $1,750 with glass window. Will

Thanks for the offer and I will keep you in mind. I like to DIY, but I truly don't have even the basics like jack stands. I used to race Legends Cars at Charlotte Motor Speedway and did all the work on my car (which included a total rebuild following a rather unfortunate encounter with two other cars and a concrete wall). However, when I sold the car everything I had went with it. This project is probably a couple of months off, but I need new tires sooner and wanted to make sure I didn't need to change sizes. Will

Viper, Thanks for the info. I guess I may need to track down Izzy or one of the other Charlotte guys to help. Will

Loren, Thanks for the response. Is there a different suspension system that is an option, or is this just not a good idea for an early model 996 cab? Thanks. Will

I have searched this and other boards for answers to my questions but have not found them. I was looking at possibly putting a X74 suspension on my US 99 C2 Cab. I have found a few references to not using the X74 on the early year 996, but no real explainations as to why. I have also read that pre 02 cabs are not recommended. So here are my questions: 1. Is it okay to put the X74 on a US 99 C2 cab? If not, what is the next best option that is viable. I want improved handling and would prefer lowering as well. 2. Is safe to assume that an engine plate is needed with any lowering system. For that matter is it safe to say that we should really all have one anyway? 3. I know a lot of people do this themselves, but I simply don't have the time, space or equipment to get it done. How much would a good indy shop charge to do the install? 4. When you go to a lowered suspension, do you have to change the tire profiles? I have the stock 17" wheels with the original size tires. I am going to need to replace the tires soon and would like to go ahead and get the proper tires to work with the suspension system I choose. Thanks in advance for your assistance and I hope I didn't overlook these answers in my searches. Will

My local dealer quoted about $1,200 for the 60k. Since I had not had the car very long prior to the 60k checkup, I used the dealer to ensure the car got a good look over. I wound up paying about $1,700 for the 60k and a few other add ons like the transmission fluid change. I thought the charges were a little high, but I guess I got what I was looking for. Will

Was searching around looking at some spoilers and came across the web site for Fiberwerks. Anybody know anything about them? Quality etc. Thanks. Will