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About Galun

Profile Fields

  • From
    San Francisco
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2002 Porsche 996 C2
    2005 BMW 330ci
    2001 Audi S4
    2006 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

Recent Profile Visitors

506 profile views

Galun's Achievements


Member (1/1)



  1. Look at my avatar - I joined over 10 years ago. Legit P car euthuastist. Not just some run of the mill drive by comment poster. I own a chain of smog shops in Northern California. Recently I had a 957 turbo come in with a P0420 code. The car would likely fail smog. Instead of failing him and put the failure on record with the state, I instructed my tech to refuse the test so he does not have a smog failure on his record. This helps him out since he has no record of smog failure. How did this guy “repay” my help? Left me a one star review on yelp, saying I was shady for refusing the test, despite me explaining to him how this helped hin out. That was stupid of me to try to help out a fellow p car guy. Guarantee it will not happen again. Look, I get it. We can afford a Porsche, we know more than most, we can afford our awesome cars, we are mechanically inclined, etc etc. But sometimes, really, people are trying to help. Well, not anymore. Rant over.
  2. Try 2539 or 2537 I tried those two codes as well as 2533, 2535, 2538, 2541, all no luck. I actually have a 996, not a 986. But I don't think it should matter. I will try a few more combinations tomorrow night (three wrong inputs and I have to wait an hour before I can try another three times), but I might be in the unlucky 5% where the program doesn't work :( Thanks anyway! :renntech: tried 2543, 2545, and then 2540 worked. Thanks!
  3. I bought one at Kragen over the weekend. The brand was Autolite I think. Warranty was only one year. Even after 25% off coupon it cost around $70. Too bad they were the only place around me that opened at 8am on the weekend, and I had to drive my car that morning.
  4. Try 2539 or 2537 I tried those two codes as well as 2533, 2535, 2538, 2541, all no luck. I actually have a 996, not a 986. But I don't think it should matter. I will try a few more combinations tomorrow night (three wrong inputs and I have to wait an hour before I can try another three times), but I might be in the unlucky 5% where the program doesn't work :( Thanks anyway! :renntech:
  5. Please help with radio code. Becker 1, Type 4462, Serial 15001759. Thanks!
  6. you can get them here: http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_pro...;action=product for a 996, you will need: Front: 2 x 40mm 2 x 36mm Rear: 2 x 30mm 2 x 28mm Great, thanks! Any DIY instructions on the actual rebuild itself? Thanks!
  7. Is there a DIY to rebuild the 996 calipers? I want to powder coat my calipers and I figure I will rebuild them at the same time. I see that porsche only sell the dust shields for them. Anybody had any luck in sourcing the inner seals? Thanks!
  8. The seller emailed me back with the part number: 996 505 983 02. What kind of bumper is it? Thanks!
  9. Hi, I am looking for the part number for the GT3 RS front bumper cover. It's the kind with the three cutouts on top for the radiator vent, but without the cutout for the tow hook (not the kind with the horizontal slit on the left side of the bumper, but the kind with the tow hook hole covered up). Thanks!
  10. I should do this filling exercise when I test for leaks, before I put the bumper back on? Reading the instructions, it almost seems like filling the coolant two times - once when everything is connected with the bumper still off to check for leaks, but I do not use the bleed valve here; once when the bumper is back on and then I do the bleed valve. Is this correct?
  11. I am a bit confused to when I should add the coolant. "Re-attach the radiators. Carefully re-position the radiators and replace the 2 bolts and nut that holds the assembly in place. Take care to line it up as it was previously. Reattach air conditioner condensers and tighten the 2 torx screws that hold them in place. Test for leaks. Start the engine and run for at least 5 minutes while checking for leaks. If everything is tight and leak free proceed with the rest of the re-assembly" This is the instruction before the reassembly of air scoops and bumper cover etc. Should I add coolant back into the system before I start the engine? I assume I should add back the same amount of coolant that had came out before restarting the engine? "Add coolant, check for leaks (again), and bleed system... Add a mixture of antifreeze and water using the HMZ coolant. Be careful not to overfill (it will get pushed out on the floor). Lift the bleed valve. Start the engine and allow it to get to full operating temperature (I also ran the air conditioning to force circulation). The coolant warning light will likely start to flash. Shut the engine off and WAIT until the engine and coolant has cooled enough to remove the coolant tank cap. Then add coolant to the tank and repeat the process. You made need to do this 2-3 times. When the coolant level fails to fall then the system is bled and you can close the bleeder valve." So, after reassembly, I go through the bleeding process? So basically I open up the bleed valve, start the engine, wait for the warning light to come on, shut off the engine, add some coolant, then repeat process until the collant warning light does not come on (or coolant level doesn't fall). Did I understand this correctly? Thanks!
  12. I will be tracking my car and plan on switching from track pads to street pads quite often. Is changing the the pad springs necessary? Thanks!
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