Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

thormann

Members
  • Content Count

    89
  • Donations

    $0.00 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by thormann

  1. Hi, I know this is an old thread, but I found it when I was looking for a way to support my engine! What I do not understand, is the advantage of the special Porsche tool or a similar design. Why can‘t I simply take the weight of the engine with a normal jack at the same point, the special tool does! Or would this be wobbly? I have never removed the transmission so far, so I am thinking only theoretically! Maybe someone can make me sleep again?
  2. Hello, I am planning to replace the clutch of my 996 4s and therefore need to remove the transmission. I will put the car on these 20" (max) Bahco jack stands. Would a 5th of this jack stand also be able to support the engine? In my opinion the effect is similar to the original Porsche tool (except that it stands on the bottom and is not connected to the car). The stand could be screwed exactly to a height "touching" the crankcase. Or am I wrong and need more of these or something different? Further I need a transmission jack! Can someone recommend one? What is the maximum lowest height of this jack to remove the transmission from under the car. Thanks for hints! Gert
  3. Thanks again for the replies!! It makes me crazy, too! The windows goes only down a bit, when I open the door! But the sound is already there when unlocking the car Very good idea, that was the solution for me, I thought! I tried immediately with the fuel lid open, but the sound is not coming from there. The pin of the lid and the rest of the power lock seem to move almost to the same time. And immediately afterwards, I hear this stupid jarring sound! By the way, it only happens, when unlocking the complete car with the remote! It does not happen, when unlocking the hood with the remote (although the doors will be opened as well)! Meanwhile I assume, this is something of the seat memory! However, I have deleted it for this key! Very annoying...
  4. No, then only the door opens! Oh, sorry! I thought in the 996 range the lock is the same! I have a 2004 996 C4 4S coupe (sunroof)! The problem is, that I hear the jarring sound only, if I have not unlocked the door for an hour or so! Therefore my question to limit the parts to check! As far as I could determine so far, the sound does not come from the doors, but not 100% sure! I don´t think the sound is coming from one door! The windows drop down when the door is open, but not when unlocked! Thanks for the replies so far!
  5. No! Oh, sorry! I thought in the 996 range the lock is the same! I have a 2004 996 C4 4S coupe (sunroof)! The problem is, that I hear the jarring sound only, if I have not unlocked the door for an hour or so! Therefore my question to limit the parts to check! As far as I could determine so far, the sound does not come from the doors, but not 100% sure! I think the sound is not coming from one door! Thanks for the replies so far!
  6. Hi, when I unlock the car with the remote I can hear the power lock and immediately afterwards a jarring sound! Therefore the above question, what all is "moved" when I press the unlock button! The power lock of the driver and passenger door and something else, which I need to locate to grease or so! I have deleted the seat memory for the key, but the jarring sound still comes up! Where can I look? Thanks, Marco
  7. Thanks for your reply! Yes, I have read about the 180° thing! However, this doesn´t work for me! I tried a pick in the small hole and even a big screwdriver in the big hole with a little more power! This ring doesn´t turn! Further the manual shows exactly "my" position. In this position I can put the wire about 1" into the lock´s hole! However, nothing happens! How far do I need to put it in? Has one photos of this mechanism, I have to release! So far it is hard to imagine for me, how this shall get off Thanks again!!
  8. Meanwhile I could disconnect the plug. I used a flat screwdriver and pushed on the clamp of the plug through the hole in the housing (photo above) Now I need to seperate the keylock from the steering wheel lock! While ignition on 1, the small hole is close to the 1 o´clock position (photos). I used a 1,3mm electro wire and could put that in the hole about 1/2", however it did not unlock anything! The diameter of the wire should be within the range (1,3-1,5mm) of the manual! In dmcole´s DIY tutorial I read that the "beauty ring" shall be rotated 180°, so that the small hole is in the 7 o´clock position! However, I can not even rotate the beauty ring without the rest. Is there any trick? Any help would be appreciated!! Thanks, Thormann
  9. Hi, I am "trying" to replace my complete ignition lock assembly. So far it was not a problem and after disassembling the left vent and the instrument cluster I could mechanically disassemble the ignition/steering lock! Electrically I have disconnected the ignition switch and the harness from the immobilizer! However, I can not disconnect the plug with 2 wires from the lock barrel (lock barrel is still in the steering lock unit). Is there any trick for that? Thanks, Thormann
  10. Hi there, I wonder, if anyone has already opened/repaired the front diff of a 996 4WD? I am not sure how to "push" the side bearings back into the housing and housing cover! Do I need a special press for that or can I carefully put it in place and close the cover? I am a little afraid to damage the housing... Any help would be appreciated! Thanks... Gert
  11. Hi, I am having exactly the same issue with my sunroof as described! What did you suggest, Loren? Did it work? Thanks!!
  12. The motor? I was hoping this is just a control thing! O.K, then I will order a new motor and hope it works!
  13. Yes, but after some minutes, it seems to be forgotten
  14. Hi, I can not open or close my sunroof in the usual way. If it is in the closed position, the open button is without function. I need to depress the closing or lifting button until the roof is lifted, then I can close the roof again with the open button. Only then I can open the roof either by pressing the open button (comfort function) or holding the open button. I have tried the above, but even then it works only once, and next time I have to repeat the procedure again. Can anybody help?? Thanks!
  15. I just installed the 997 actuator and it works perfectly, thanks once more! I found the length of the rod is adjustable and results into different opening positions of the flap inside the bypass! Has anyone experienced sound differences out of this? Thanks, Gert
  16. Thanks a lot, that´s good news !!! I´ll get the 997 actuator then!
  17. Meanwhile I could get hold of a pump. I found one of the vacuum boxes, attached to the muffler is leaking. However, this box is not sold separately for the 996, only the complete muffler. In the 997 catalogue is a part no. for the vacuum box itself. I wonder, if I can use this for the 996 too? This box is about USD 80,- only and to be honest, I would not like to buy a new muffler for more than USD 1.000,-, just for this "cheap" part! Thanks a lot! Gert
  18. Thank you very much for the photos. The vacuum pump is a good idea. I will try to get one!
  19. Thanks for replies. I tested the solenoid and could definitively hear a clear click, when energizing and deenergizing. So, unfotunately, the solenoid seems to work and this is not the problem (would be the easiest, I think). But how can I check the hose system. I can not imagine, that the leaks are visible. Connected is everything as it should. My idea to limit the leak is to start disconnecting at the beginnig (branch upstream the vacuum tank) of the system and feel at the open outlet, if there is vacuum or not (with running engine, of course). If I feel vacuum, I go the a more downstream connection. Is is possible to feel the vacuum? Maybe a stupid question: Is the vacuum for the PSE only? I can not see branches going to anything else! Thanks one more! Gert
  20. Hi, For some days now, I can not control my PSE Mufflers (996 4S) anymore, they are always open. I know, that the vacuum, that closes the mufflers are controlled by a solenoid valve. I have disconnected the terminals and took the voltage => 0V went to 12V when pressing the switch. So for me it seems, that the electrical control up to the solenoid works out fine. Did anyone had a similar issue? What are the most likely parts, that could be affected. How can I test the solenoid valve itself? Thanks for support! Gert
  21. But isn´t it more likely a relay problem, since the switch LED goes off, when the flaps open! That means for me, that the solenoid is not even energized! Beside the speedcontrol, I guess the Relay works like an ELTAKO relay! With each 12V impulse from the switch it energizes / deenergizes the terminals to the LED A4 and to the valve A5. Or am I completely wrong?
  22. Hi, I have a 996 4S MY 04 with PSE factory installed. One year ago, I had disconnected the speedometer A signal and this worked perfect so far! Under some conditions, I need to manually turn to quiet mode sometimes. However, the flaps close for some seconds and turn back to loud mode again. First, I thought, this is a vacuum problem. But when the flaps move back to loud, also the dashboard LED is off. If I would have a vacuum leak, the LED would remain on. So, in my opinion, this can only be a electrical problem, probably either the switch or the relay. How can I figure out, what exactly the problem is? What happens inside the relay? How can I test it without the switch? Thanks, Gert
  23. Thanks for this detailed answer. That was exactly, what I wanted to know. If the cluster is the "hub", then the radio is hooked up there too, I guess! The error is no problem for me then! Maybe later I will have it programmed!
  24. Hi and thanks for answer. As far as I read the wiring diagram the can comfort is arranged as a ring collecting cluster, hvac and radio (each high an low). Since I have removed the radio, there is a gap in the ring and I doubt, that the remaining units (cluster and hvac) are still communicating. That means, I have lost some features such as automatic climate control with sun sensor? Or am I wrong and the HVAC and the cluster are still communicating even without the gap? Marco
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.