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thormann

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Everything posted by thormann

  1. thormann
    Thanks for replies. I tested the solenoid and could definitively hear a clear click, when energizing and deenergizing. So, unfotunately, the solenoid seems to work and this is not the problem (would be the easiest, I think). But how can I check the hose system. I can not imagine, that the leaks are visible. Connected is everything as it should. My idea to limit the leak is to start disconnecting at the beginnig (branch upstream the vacuum tank) of the system and feel at the open outlet, if there is vacuum or not (with running engine, of course). If I feel vacuum, I go the a more downstream connection. Is is possible to feel the vacuum? Maybe a stupid question: Is the vacuum for the PSE only? I can not see branches going to anything else! Thanks one more! Gert
  2. thormann
    Hi, For some days now, I can not control my PSE Mufflers (996 4S) anymore, they are always open. I know, that the vacuum, that closes the mufflers are controlled by a solenoid valve. I have disconnected the terminals and took the voltage => 0V went to 12V when pressing the switch. So for me it seems, that the electrical control up to the solenoid works out fine. Did anyone had a similar issue? What are the most likely parts, that could be affected. How can I test the solenoid valve itself? Thanks for support! Gert
  3. thormann
    But isn´t it more likely a relay problem, since the switch LED goes off, when the flaps open! That means for me, that the solenoid is not even energized! Beside the speedcontrol, I guess the Relay works like an ELTAKO relay! With each 12V impulse from the switch it energizes / deenergizes the terminals to the LED A4 and to the valve A5. Or am I completely wrong?
  4. thormann
    Hi, I have a 996 4S MY 04 with PSE factory installed. One year ago, I had disconnected the speedometer A signal and this worked perfect so far! Under some conditions, I need to manually turn to quiet mode sometimes. However, the flaps close for some seconds and turn back to loud mode again. First, I thought, this is a vacuum problem. But when the flaps move back to loud, also the dashboard LED is off. If I would have a vacuum leak, the LED would remain on. So, in my opinion, this can only be a electrical problem, probably either the switch or the relay. How can I figure out, what exactly the problem is? What happens inside the relay? How can I test it without the switch? Thanks, Gert
  5. thormann
    Thanks for this detailed answer. That was exactly, what I wanted to know. If the cluster is the "hub", then the radio is hooked up there too, I guess! The error is no problem for me then! Maybe later I will have it programmed!
  6. thormann
    Hi and thanks for answer. As far as I read the wiring diagram the can comfort is arranged as a ring collecting cluster, hvac and radio (each high an low). Since I have removed the radio, there is a gap in the ring and I doubt, that the remaining units (cluster and hvac) are still communicating. That means, I have lost some features such as automatic climate control with sun sensor? Or am I wrong and the HVAC and the cluster are still communicating even without the gap? Marco
  7. thormann
    Does anybody know, which information are shared in the comfort can between cluster, HVAC and radio? I think speed and illumination is required for the radio. But what is required for the HVAC, for instance? only illumination ? Since I have removed the radio, the CAN Ring is interrupted and probably not any information is shared anymore, even between cluster and HVAC.
  8. thormann
    Yes, but the vacuum shall be stored in a tank. So I should be able to close the PSE without the engine (and air pump) running as long as the vacuum system is tight. If not, I have to look for leakages as per above. Or am I wrong?
  9. thormann
    If the additional air changes the sound so much in cold condition, I am thinking now, this has me made thinking, the PSE didn´t close prior to start. Can I somehow check if the PSE closes without starting the engine?
  10. thormann
    Thanks for all the answers. @RFM Yes, it is louder and a different sound. But it is more a crackle sound than a howling sound. Can this really be the air pump? Or is this a result of the additional air, that makes the engine sounding like this? With my Durametric I could activate the air pump to see, if the sound comes from there. Can I do this without problems with engine running? Or can this be dangerous for the engine under certain conditions? How can I check, if the vacuum system is leaking and where? Thanks again, Gert
  11. thormann
    Hi, I have a factory installed PSE in my 2004 C4S. If I go to work early in the morning, I want to start the engine in quite mode and therefore turn on the electrics, switch the rocker switch to quite mode and then only start the engine. However, it takes some time (about 30 seconds) of driving until the sound becomes silent. Also if I leave it in the loud mode it is much noisier in the first 30 seconds. Is that normal? I understand, that the rocker switch (via the control relay) controls valves to pneumatically open and cloose the mufflers. Any hint appreciated. Thanks, Gert P.S. I have disconnected the speed signal from the relay
  12. thormann
    Sure, but which terminals of plug1 are 30 and 31, if I look to the amplifier. My problem is, I am not sure which side is shown on the wiring diagram posted here! Is the harness or the amplifier side shown!!!
  13. thormann
    Hi, I need to come back to the above 2002 Bose wiring diagram! I am not sure, if the plug 1 is shown from the harness side or from the amplifier side. Plug 2 I can recognize, because of the asymmetric shape (shown from amp side). I would expect the same for plug 1, but then the letters on the diamgram do not match with those on the socket. Can anybody confirm, where (especially) terminals 30 and 31 run to, please! Thanks! Gert
  14. thormann
    Hi, I am trying to remove the MOST system of my 996 4S MY04 (equipped with Bose M680) to install an aftermarket double din (Kenwood DNX-5220BT) and so far I succeded. Currently I have the front and rear speakers of the Bose system connected to the speaker outputs of the Kenwood. In the second step, I want to put an amplifier in between for a little more power and the subwoofer. I could get hold of the amp and the additional subwoofer amp of the 2002 analogue Bose system, which should work with the original Bose speaker´s low impedances. Another advantage is the small size. The amplifier fits to the place, where my MOST amplifier was located. But, where was this additional amplifier normally installed in a 4 wheel drive 996. I could use the standard brackets then! Can anybody help, please??? Thanks, Thormann
  15. thormann
    Thank you, I did it that way! However, this was not a blind plug in my car. There run cables for the Litronic/Xenon lights regulation! But there was still enough space. Thanks again!
  16. thormann
    P.S. It will be different between Boxster and a 4wheel Carrera. I need a routing for a 4S!
  17. thormann
    Hi juniinc, where did you run the wires from the back part of the trunk (whre the battery is located) to the front part of the trunk to the amplifier? I could run the wires very easily from the head unit to back part part through the hole behind the battery! However I can not find a suitable place to run to the amplifier! Thanks, Marco
  18. thormann
    The speed and reverse signal are transmitted via the can bus to the CDR23 (C1 and C2). You would need a special adaptor to get the signals out of this (Dietz 61010). But you can get the signals directly from the cluster. You can find also terminal 86s there, that I prefer to terminal 15 (radio turns off after removing the key and not after turning off the ignition/engine).
  19. thormann
    In the 2000 wiring, the CAN comfort did just connect the cluster and the A/C, the radio got analogue signals ! How was the CDR 23 integrated in the CAN comfort? Can I just short circuit the high and low terminals of the plug if it is a CAN ring? Unfortunaltey I do not have a 2003 wiring!
  20. thormann
    Thanks! If this is a CAN timeout, then it is probably because of the CDR23, that I removed for an aftermarket unit! Can I fix it somehow?
  21. thormann
    Hi, when reading the fault memory of the heating/aircon (system H01), Durametric gives me an unknown fault 38. I can erase the fault, however it always returns. Going through the 2000 workshop manual, the last fault code is 32. Any idea, what to do? Thanks, Gert
  22. thormann
    Hi Tool Pants, From which control unit (or in which menu) have you received the datas on the screenshot. Unfortunaltey I have not kept in mind, when we hooked up to the PIWIS. Can I get those datas also from Durametric? I want to check once more, but it is easier to find a Duramteric than PIWIS!
  23. thormann
    I know, and I do not want to compare! I will completely remove the MOST and install the 2002 Bose amp. Believe me, the two complete wiring sheets of the radio/speakers(2002 + 2003) would help me a lot, since I want to keep the existing speakers!
  24. thormann
    No chance, Loren? ;)
  25. thormann
    @Tool Pants This is what I mean! The % difference is almost the same at my car (about 4%). Is this in every car or something special?
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