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Lerxst

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About Lerxst

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

Profile Fields

  • From
    Winnipeg, Manitoba
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    '03 Nissan 350Z Track
    '04 Cavalier (Winter Beater)
  • Future cars
    Porsche 996
  1. Dropped the car off at the dealership for a new coolant expansion tank and asked them to ID the line and figure out if it needs to be replaced. Didn't have time for an in-depth discussion when I picked it up, but to summarize... 1) It is a fuel line (I didn't get the part number) 2) The part splitting is a rubber sheath protecting the fuel line 3) The fuel line was borescoped and found to be in perfect condition. 4) The car is safe to drive as-is I've filled the splits with Seal-All and zip-tied for reinforcement. Thanks for all the input.
  2. Found this pic of a 3.4L motor... I circled two lines that pass over the intake manifold, the same as where I think the mystery line is going...
  3. Clipped the zip tie and tried to disconnect line to check what was inside, but it was not cooperating. It seems to have a permanent connection to the elbow and the elbow 'looks' like it is a compression fitting on to the metal line. Snapped another photo. The rubber portion is clipped to the side of the coolant expansion tank, runs towards the front of the car, then up over the manifold. The metal line. The metal line is clipped to the top of the compartment and runs straight forward to the front of the car, where I lose it at a second clip.
  4. Oops... sorry... MY02 Thanks Loren... any idea of how difficult it is to replace?
  5. Cross posting from Rennlist (not getting any responses and I need to place a parts order asap). What is the hose in the picture marked red? How long would it take to replace with the coolant tank out? If it is a lengthy process, could I splice a new end on without issue? My coolant tank leaked on me tonight and while surveying the damage, I found the end of the hose split at the connection. I've zip-tied it temporarily, but need an idea of what it is and how long it should take to replace, to know what I'm talking about when negotiating with the dealer. Thank you, Joe
  6. Just finished my front pads and rotors. Dealership wanted $350+ tax for labour. Following the instructions in this thread, it went pretty smoothly. I ended up reusing the old dampers. The dealership said I wouldn't need new ones, but it took a good 20 minutes to get them clean. I also used Quiet Brake with success... no squealing. The dealership gave me the wrong sensors and was closed till Monday, so I bypassed the sensors by soldering the two wires together securing them with success... no warning lights. bbooth... I don't remember the orientation of the dampers, but there's only one way that they'll fit into the pistons. Thanks to Loren and the rest of the contributors.
  7. Anyone have experience with Amsoil Severe Gear 75w-90? It's not on 'the list' but I've heard some good things about it. http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/svg.aspx
  8. Either way, something's gone wrong in that area. While it's apart, you might as well replace all the 'bits'.
  9. Definitely try tapping it back first. I forgot about that option. I couldn't get it to move and had to resort to brute force.
  10. The tensioner is spring-loaded. When you release the bolt, the pulley will snap back into its original position. A couple quick suggestions from my recent experience with replacing the alternator... If the top flange is really tight, have a buddy put downward pressure with a blunt chisel (or something like that) on the flange while you wiggle the alternator. That really helped it rotate clockwise to come out. Have a local auto electric shop rebuild your existing alternator. My cost was $190CDN after taxes and it worked like a charm. The replacement parts of our alternators are generic. If the alternator was tight coming out, grind a couple thousandths off the rear bushing of the top flange. I took enough off so that it was still snug, but it rotated into place easily. When you tighten the bolt, the bushing will pull in tight to the mount on the engine. Have fun!
  11. $750 at Suncoast Porsche http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant..._Code=POTE996EX You could probably get them for less at Sunset. Or post a WTB on some Porsche forums. I think there are a few guys out there that may have a used set. IMHO it would look better with the skirts, but you're the one who has to live with it. If it floats your boat, go for it.
  12. The rebuild included a new regulator. They gave me the option of trouble shooting and fixing the problem, or doing a complete rebuild for about $70 more. I just had them do a complete rebuild. In situations like puling the alternator, I put on the mechnic gloves... my knuckles are intact :) The guys at North Main Auto Electric just shook their heads when I told them some of the other options and related prices. And it was nice of them to not jack up the price when my dad blurted out it was for a Porsche. :P
  13. Alternator's in, it's working like a charm. Lessons learned for anyone else doing this: 1) The rear bushing on passenger-side of the alternator was really tight. Some people were able to tap it back with the bolt after 5 turns, but it didn't work for me. Use lots of lube and place downward pressure on the tab while wiggle the alternator. Before putting it back in, I ground the surface down a few thousandths to make the install a little easier. 2) Before shelling out $400 for a rebuilt alternator, contact your local independent auto electric shop. My shop charged me $195 after taxes to rebuild my alternator and had it ready the same day. Cheers, Joe
  14. Choices... Go to local stealership... $1000 for new alternator plus install... 4 business days. Have local alternator shop bring in a rebuilt... $400... 3 weeks Have local Auto Electrics shop rebuild the alternator... ~$225, done tomorrow. That's an easy one.
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