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Lerxst

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Everything posted by Lerxst

  1. Dropped the car off at the dealership for a new coolant expansion tank and asked them to ID the line and figure out if it needs to be replaced. Didn't have time for an in-depth discussion when I picked it up, but to summarize... 1) It is a fuel line (I didn't get the part number) 2) The part splitting is a rubber sheath protecting the fuel line 3) The fuel line was borescoped and found to be in perfect condition. 4) The car is safe to drive as-is I've filled the splits with Seal-All and zip-tied for reinforcement. Thanks for all the input.
  2. Found this pic of a 3.4L motor... I circled two lines that pass over the intake manifold, the same as where I think the mystery line is going...
  3. Clipped the zip tie and tried to disconnect line to check what was inside, but it was not cooperating. It seems to have a permanent connection to the elbow and the elbow 'looks' like it is a compression fitting on to the metal line. Snapped another photo. The rubber portion is clipped to the side of the coolant expansion tank, runs towards the front of the car, then up over the manifold. The metal line. The metal line is clipped to the top of the compartment and runs straight forward to the front of the car, where I lose it at a second clip.
  4. Oops... sorry... MY02 Thanks Loren... any idea of how difficult it is to replace?
  5. Cross posting from Rennlist (not getting any responses and I need to place a parts order asap). What is the hose in the picture marked red? How long would it take to replace with the coolant tank out? If it is a lengthy process, could I splice a new end on without issue? My coolant tank leaked on me tonight and while surveying the damage, I found the end of the hose split at the connection. I've zip-tied it temporarily, but need an idea of what it is and how long it should take to replace, to know what I'm talking about when negotiating with the dealer. Thank you, Joe
  6. Just finished my front pads and rotors. Dealership wanted $350+ tax for labour. Following the instructions in this thread, it went pretty smoothly. I ended up reusing the old dampers. The dealership said I wouldn't need new ones, but it took a good 20 minutes to get them clean. I also used Quiet Brake with success... no squealing. The dealership gave me the wrong sensors and was closed till Monday, so I bypassed the sensors by soldering the two wires together securing them with success... no warning lights. bbooth... I don't remember the orientation of the dampers, but there's only one way that they'll fit into the pistons. Thanks to Loren and the rest of the contributors.
  7. Anyone have experience with Amsoil Severe Gear 75w-90? It's not on 'the list' but I've heard some good things about it. http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/svg.aspx
  8. Either way, something's gone wrong in that area. While it's apart, you might as well replace all the 'bits'.
  9. Definitely try tapping it back first. I forgot about that option. I couldn't get it to move and had to resort to brute force.
  10. The tensioner is spring-loaded. When you release the bolt, the pulley will snap back into its original position. A couple quick suggestions from my recent experience with replacing the alternator... If the top flange is really tight, have a buddy put downward pressure with a blunt chisel (or something like that) on the flange while you wiggle the alternator. That really helped it rotate clockwise to come out. Have a local auto electric shop rebuild your existing alternator. My cost was $190CDN after taxes and it worked like a charm. The replacement parts of our alternators are generic. If the alternator was tight coming out, grind a couple thousandths off the rear bushing of the top flange. I took enough off so that it was still snug, but it rotated into place easily. When you tighten the bolt, the bushing will pull in tight to the mount on the engine. Have fun!
  11. $750 at Suncoast Porsche http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant..._Code=POTE996EX You could probably get them for less at Sunset. Or post a WTB on some Porsche forums. I think there are a few guys out there that may have a used set. IMHO it would look better with the skirts, but you're the one who has to live with it. If it floats your boat, go for it.
  12. The rebuild included a new regulator. They gave me the option of trouble shooting and fixing the problem, or doing a complete rebuild for about $70 more. I just had them do a complete rebuild. In situations like puling the alternator, I put on the mechnic gloves... my knuckles are intact :) The guys at North Main Auto Electric just shook their heads when I told them some of the other options and related prices. And it was nice of them to not jack up the price when my dad blurted out it was for a Porsche. :P
  13. Alternator's in, it's working like a charm. Lessons learned for anyone else doing this: 1) The rear bushing on passenger-side of the alternator was really tight. Some people were able to tap it back with the bolt after 5 turns, but it didn't work for me. Use lots of lube and place downward pressure on the tab while wiggle the alternator. Before putting it back in, I ground the surface down a few thousandths to make the install a little easier. 2) Before shelling out $400 for a rebuilt alternator, contact your local independent auto electric shop. My shop charged me $195 after taxes to rebuild my alternator and had it ready the same day. Cheers, Joe
  14. Choices... Go to local stealership... $1000 for new alternator plus install... 4 business days. Have local alternator shop bring in a rebuilt... $400... 3 weeks Have local Auto Electrics shop rebuild the alternator... ~$225, done tomorrow. That's an easy one.
  15. Ya learn something every day... the alternator is referred to as the generator in the shop manual. Answered question 4. 27 22 19 - Removing and installing generator - 27-3
  16. Battery Warrning Light came on while driving tonight. Visual inspection of the battery shows a ship date of June 23, 2006. I plan to take the battery in tomorrow morning to make sure it's not the problem. I'm suspecting it's the alternator. 1) Could it be anything else that I should investigate? 2) Is the alternator on a MY02 C2 a common component across manufacturers... Audi, VW? I'm not in a large city and am hoping that I can find a rebuilt one to install in the next day or two. 3) How tough is it to swap out the alternator on this engine? I've done an intake and the IPD plenum so far by myself. 4) Can you direct me to any instructions on swapping this, either in the shop manual (which I have), or on the site? So far I've come up with nothing in my search. Thanks guys. Joe
  17. So if I want to evacuate the hot air out of the engine bay, I could turn the a/c on to run the fan?
  18. Another forum was trying to get a group buy going but it sounds like it was shot down... I'm speculating by the manufacturer. There have been two GBs over the last couple years, last one ending January 31 '08. I missed out on that but RPM offered me a good price and I'm waiting on pins'n'needles for the IPD to arrive.
  19. I've been doing a fair bit of research on Renntech, Rennlist, and 6Speed and am planning on running the IPD with an FVD intake. From what I've read you shouldn't have any problems. Some people have recommended disconnecting the battery during the install to "reset" the ECU to avoid the CEL. There still seems to be the 2 schools of thought on the IPD, but some skeptics that I have a high regard for, have become believers, and that's good enough for me.
  20. How much do you drive the car and how hard are you driving it? Regardless, I would cautious when driving in the rain.
  21. I've had my car for almost a year, and am ready for mods. Between searching, following threads on various forums, and deciding on what I want from the car, this is my list. My car already came with PSE and MKI sideskirts. As soon as I got the car, I picked up smoked side markers and chrome lugs. 1) RoW M030 Suspension - Sunset Imports (Oregon) - $1100 slight performance increase without ride being compromised. The 20mm drop will look nice too. 2) AeroCupII kit... sort of. - Performance increase to plant that rear end in high speed corners at the track. --- OEM GT3 Decklid & Blade - used - I got ripped off on the decklid at $1300, I picked up the blade for $250 --- OEM AeroCupII bumper & spoiler kit - Sunset Imports - $1300 3) FVD Powerflow Intake - FVD USA - $495 - With the GT3 decklid, i had to move my intake to the right side of the engine bay. Should have nice sound improvement. 4) RSS Plenum - RPM - $900 to $1000 - Lots of informal praise for this piece and a couple of dynos proving the gains. 5) Yokohama Advan Neova AD07s - Fast Toys Performance - $1450CDN - The Continentals were absolute garbage on the track.
  22. I'll be doing this for the first time this Spring. This thread's been up for 4 years, so it must be ok, but I'm a little concerned about when I jack the car up where the jack is in front of the rear wheel on the driver's side and the stand is behind the front wheel on the passenger side. This seems like an unstable position for the car. Does the car "teeter" during the process, or somehow remain stable? Thanks, Joe
  23. I don't have first hand experience yet, but from what I've read, I decided to go with the RoW M030. I'm expecting a modest drop of 10-20mm. My understanding is that the ride firms up a bit, but is still quite comfortable. The other option I considered was PSS9s, where you have adjustability for ride height and firmness. I contemplated X74 suspension that can drop the car up to 40mm, but I hear it's a very firm ride and my roads are just too rough.
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