laalves

Nope, just a JBL Class D digital signal processor. I do have two Alpine Class D amps connected to the outputs of the JBL, however I installed all these in 2008 when I bought the car and the Porsche/Moll battery that came installed only died in 2012 or 2013. I dont' know how old it was before that but 4/5 years is very good already. The Class D system I have in place is very good and power efficient. I remember doing the load calculations in 2008 and reaching the conclusion that I had ample reserve to spare, considering the battery and alternator specs.

And here's the new battery in place - 353mm width.

Great looking stands. What's the brand?

I have been using the PS2 N3 for the last 7 years/80000 kms and am a happy bunny with them. May be expensive but I believe they're worth the money. When I bought the car in 2008 it came with PZero Rosso that were too old/hard to wear but had no grip. When I changed all four to my first PS2 set it was night and day. I believe I'm currently in my 2nd front set and 4th rear set (these almost brand new).

Huge battery installed, fits just fine. Hope it lasts for more than a couple of years... As to the gremlins, I'll see in the upcoming days whether they'll go away. The new ignition switch has not arrived yet but I'll put it in anyway AFTER I determine whether the gremlins were battery related.

Funny you mention that, it just died this morning with no pre-warning. 2-years old Porsche Moll. Ordered a Bosch S5 013, 100Ah 830A for half the OEM 80Ah 800A that's in place. My car originally had the M197 option, so has a huge battery tray ready for larger batteries, hence my ordering the biggest Bosch that fits.

Thx both, but I know about prices and P/N of the switch, the questions I asked were a bit more specific. Ideas anyone?

Hi all, I currently have a few electric gremlins in my car that have been sneaking in in the last few months: 1. The headlight washers stopped working. Fuses all ok. Took the water pump off the reservoir and it was swollen and cracked open so I replaced it, thinking I nailed it. It didn't. The pump is working fine in the bench but still no joy... Got a relay to exchange and test. Nope. So I'm guessing headlight switch (going to check next if the headlight signal arrives at the relay) but... 2. A while back, I started getting occasional PSM fault followed by ABS fault. Durametric said Hot Film MAF and DME loss of comms (the usual ones). Got a new Bosch MAF (figured a 14 year old MAF was due for replacement anyway), still the problem persisted but much less. Replaced air filter, cleaned the air box, disappeared the issue BUT now I get it if I leave the car idling for a while, I will occasionally get the codes. Shutdown and restart clears the dash lights. The lights will not show up while driving, just when idling, which appears to rule out air leaks... 3. Occasionally, after starting the car, the windows would open by themselves, interior lights stay on for a while and it won't let me lock it with the inside button. Now, this happening 90% of the times I start, immediately after the start. All the rest of the lock/unlock system is working per spec, i.e., windows go down slightly pulling the handle, locks/unlocks with the remote, seat memory, detects correctly open bonnet/glove/arm rest lid, lights flash per spec, unlocks/locks with the key everything perfect, except this weird thing upon turning the key. Question 1: could all this be a sign of a failing ignition switch (4A0 905 849 B)? Is it worth it buying a more expensive branded one (Magnetti-Marelli, Valeo, 20-40€, etc) or a 5€ unbranded? Question 2: would I be better off replacing with the newer spec 996 347 017 07 full lock housing (I checked and have the older original one installed)? I can get a new one for 130€ versus the switch only for 5-40€, which is not a concern but still would like to know if it is worthwhile.

Right, just took the tank out (pain in the neck), checked the pump and its plug. The pump tested fine with 12V outside the car, so that was not it. Since I had a new on hand, I replaced it anyway. The plug is the interesting bit: the two contacts are shorted, 0 ohm. When I remove the corresponding relay it reads open circuit. The relay itself, outside the car is shorted between P and 31, which looking at the attached diagram, only makes sense in case of a defective relay. What do you guys think? 996TT02 Wiring extract.pdf

There's already a 2015?

Interesting... The 2010 PET which I used shows this to be 996.618.113.00. I did check the right fuse. Anyway, just got the pump in the mail and will try it tonight.

Headlights on, windshield washer on, should operate the headlight washers...

I'm sorry, I don't understand what you are saying....

I managed to order one new pump off ebay for 15€ so before I start disassembling things I have the part on hand. I'll replace it straight away and see if it works. If not, my next suspicion will be the relay which if I try to source it as Porsche's P/N 996.618.113.00 will cost upwards of 150€ but if I source it as Bosch's 1 397 328 015 it'll be 20€.

Hi all, The headlight washers on my 996TT MY02 won't work. Fuse is fine. What should I be looking at first? Pump under the left fender (take left wheel out, remover plastic liner?). Any hints?

Indeed. However, as I had nothing to loose, I sprayed some WD40 into the locks, locked the car via 3-keyturn trick and let it sit for a few hours. I went back and it automagically worked.... Go figure. BTW, my car's symptoms did not include the window not lowering slightly when opening the door in the handle, as many other similar cases in the web I've googled.

Yes I replaced the radio but it's been like that for years, no problem ever came off that.

This is already after that...

Hi all, Car is 2002 996TT Today I have the common fault: can't lock the car with the remote and it beeps twice. I can lock it with the 3 key turn thing. I have read the codes with Durametric (see attached screen capture). Am I right in assuming I have a bad microswitch (stuck open) in one of the door lock mechanisms? How can I tell which one, left or right? Has any one ever managed to repair/unstick the micro switch or is there no other solution other than replacing the complete door lock, i.e., 8N1837015C for the left door or 3B1837016P for the right door? This happened to my car on the right door 3 or 4 years ago and the right lock was replaced under extended warranty. Maybe this time it is on the left door?

This is an old one but the exact same thing happened to me when changing the radio. It turned out to be just a fuse, don't remember which one.

Hi, I have an 02 TT tip and the same happens to me: either in heavy rain days or after a thorough exterior wash, I have the same slippage for a few seconds. Never worried about it but it may have begun to happen 2 or 3 years ago when the alternator quit and had it replaced under warranty. They even threw in a new battery. Best warranty I had in any car.

I wouldn't be worried if it were the pads only, I was talking about disks and pads.

Is there any aftermarket alternative brake sets for our cars that last longer? I have just paid for a full set that set me back 1400... Fronts lasted 30000km and rears 20000km. Every time I have had to change brake pads, I ended up changing disks also. Perhaps I should try to drive in a more conservative way, but what would the point be? Do Brembos last longer?

I understand your point but it is arguable. The oils taken from the oil tank is not necessarily biased. If you take the sample from drained oil it might have an excessive degree of contamination, since heavy contaminants might accumulate in the bottom area and stay there for years. In a new car I agree that drained oil it's best, and an older car (11 years, 142000km) there may be the whole history of contamination, instead of just since the last oil change, which is what you should be looking for. I work in aviation and have been taking oil samples from piston and turbine engines alike for years, and this is a long standing discussion in the community: where it is best to take your samples from! ;)

You're absolutely right and I would never do an oil change with an extraction tool. This is to take a small oil sample for analysis.