pomocanthus

Bruce, Toolpants, JP, Stefan, I decided to do AOS R&R myself and am stuck at step #2 (I managed to remove the J tube connecting the AOS to TB) :lol: I looked at detailed instruction from Mike Focke website where he recommends lifting and removing passenger rear tire to access the two 10mm bolts. The bolts and bellows should be visible when looking through the wheel well. I have a '99 tip and it must be different because I cannot see the AOS through the wheel well. It seems like I can get at the two bolts from above the car (through normal engine access bay) using a flex extension. Working from above the car, I can feel the bellows underneath the AOS (but cannot see it). I think I can remove it using a clamp hose pliers but I wonder how I would be able to connect the bellows on the new AOS. Also the hose (#4 in diagram above) is hidden under two bundles of wiring that I cannot move. Bruce said that it can be disconnected after removing the two bolts and pulling the AOS partly out. JP mentioned that this hose should be replaced. It seems pretty difficult to replace this hose. Any hints? Thanks in advanced for all your help. This DIY stuff is fun, frustrating, dirty, back breaking, but mostly rewarding. At the moment it is mostly frustrating :cursing: thanks, Hung

Loren, The serial number I gave is from pressing the TP button for 10 secs and scrolling through info using the radio's right dial, per info on this thread. It seems that neither the code I read from OBC using Durametric nor the codes you gave me worked. I will contact the dealer. Thanks for trying, Hung

Thanks Bruce! I will start AOS R&R after New Years and will take you up on your offer. I will try to take some pics to post but spacing seems tight. Hung

That is correct - sometimes the dealer changes the radio and forgets to change the code documented in the DME. It is best to read the code right off the display front panel (see the how to in previous posts here). So, is this the correct number you want me to look up? Yes please!!! Try 9020 or 9018 I will try. Radio is in "WAIT" mode right now. Thanks! Loren, Neither codes worked. Here's some additional info on radio. Can you help? Becker 1 Type 4462 Ser 15062539 Gal 00 CDP2081 Thanks!

My opinion, FWIW, as a guy faced with the same decision 6 months ago: ROW M030 is T-H-E way to go for a street/track car. The difference in the handling is impressive to say the least. A bit stiffer, but not objectionable for every day use, but get a good alignment done and start hitting some tight corners hard, and I guarantee your mouth will drop when you begin to see what it can do. Roll is unnoticable, if any. It just plants and rails through the twisties. Drops the car just enough and gives it a more aggressive look as a bonus. Best $1000 I have spent by FAR. Good alignment setup is critical. I also have 18's. I went -1.2 degrees front camber; -2.0 degrees rear camber; Front and rear toe both at at 1/32". Some like 0 toe front and 1/16" rear, but I was more comfortable with a touch of toe dialed in. Tire pressures I keep at 30psi for "spirited" driving or track, drop to 28 to soften the ride a little for long trips. Andy Andy, Where did you find M030 for $1K? I haven't been able to find anywhere near that price. THanks, Hung

That is correct - sometimes the dealer changes the radio and forgets to change the code documented in the DME. It is best to read the code right off the display front panel (see the how to in previous posts here). So, is this the correct number you want me to look up? Yes please!!! Try 9020 or 9018 I will try. Radio is in "WAIT" mode right now. Thanks!

That is correct - sometimes the dealer changes the radio and forgets to change the code documented in the DME. It is best to read the code right off the display front panel (see the how to in previous posts here). So, is this the correct number you want me to look up? Yes please!!!

Loren, Please Help. I read code from Durametric but apparentl not the right code. Previous owner must have changed head. Becker type 4462 serial 15062539 Thanks in advanced, Hung

Stefan, This thread gave me the confidence and knowledge to clean the TB and ICV this weekend. I think the most difficult part was separating the TB from the intermediate piece that connects the intake manifolds. Two of the four hex bolts were blind bolts and you had to be a contortionist to reach them while at the same time laying on the trunk deck and working underneath the folded up convertible top. TB wasn't that dirty compared to other people's pics but ICV had a lot of hard carbon build up on it. Toothpicks and Q-Tips were great for cleaning this part along with the CRC cleaner. You mentioned above that the ICV was partially open after many cleanings you finally managed to get it to close. Mine moved with relative ease even before the cleaning but only closed to a certain point (~ 3/4 way closed). Is it supposed to be closed all the way as your thread implied? I installed mine with this "opening" and it seams to be idling fine. A few more notes. My TB wasn't all that dirty but after cleaning it made a world of difference on the throttle response. There is no longer the slight hesitation in 2nd gear. Overall it was very worthwhile project to do. My next project will be replacing the OAS. The J-tube that I removed to get to the TB had a good amount of oil in it (3-4 drops from each end). I haven't had a good look at the bellows but the OAS itself is caked in dirt. Dirt that is stuck to old oil. This DIY has given me the courage to do the OAS R&R which I hear is far more difficult. Thanks to you, Loren, Tool Pants (did I just repeat myself?), Todd, and others for making this less frustrating. Now back to my 80K old but rejuvenated '99 2.5. Hung

Sheldon (flyboy) So did you end up doing the R&R yourself? Where did you get the parts? If you brought to indy shop I'd like to know where and also your experience with the shop. I am in Houston also. Thanks, Hung

I think I may have the same problem but on driver side. When cold everything OK but after at least 20 miles of driving I can hear a knocking noise coming from wheel area; like something bouncing up and down. I can hear this at any speed. After I let the car rest for at least half hour, the sound goes away. I have read somewhere that it may be the a worn bushing on the control arm and that there is no replacing just the bushing. The entire arm need to be replaced. Like you, I've had no luck finding any DIY info. AlldataDIY does not have any info and neither does Bentley Manual. What did you end up doing? 2.5 '99 Boxster

Here's an idea for the entrepreneur (I thought of this while replacing my aging top with the GAHH glass top on my '99). Make a replacement heat shield with a clear window in the middle (Lexan maybe?) so that you can always see the engine through the rear window. I bet you can sell a ton of these. I always thought that Porsche never played up the appearance of the mid-engines enough, like Ferrari and others did.

Can someone please describe these vibrations; where they're coming from, where it is felt, any associated noise.