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Sandy

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  • From
    The hills of the Berkshires
  • Porsche Club
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  • Present cars
    1999 996 Coupe
  • Former cars
    924 Turbo, 944 Turbo, 928S4

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  1. I once had access to a 996 with the "PAG Exclusive" FWL system and was able to learn a few things about the installation. The light assemblies were mounted near the forward edge of the removable carpeted side panels (see pic.). They had plastic shrouds mounted around them to prevent lamp backscatter. I could see no additional relays mounted on the forward relay panel under the dash. I wasn't allowed to remove any panels, so I have no idea what the FWL switch controlled. I've often wondered if Loren, or Jeff (Tool Pants), with their dealer contacts, would be able to get diagrams of the circuitry. However, I do think that the secret of PAG's FWL circuit is a REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER RELAY. The relay is perfect for combining several functions in one. It has provisions for accepting PAG's momentary rocker switch inputs. It also provides a dedicated output for the amber LED in the switch. It has an internal timer which resets 12 minutes after turn-on and a power-off reset feature. If you left the car with the FW lights on, they'd be OFF the next time you start the car. I've drawn up a circuit which uses the relay. I'll clean it up and post it when I get some spare time. The only drawback I find with the relay is the fact that it doesn't provide a grounded output to parallel with the BROWN/YELLOW interior light wiring (from the Alarm CU) for turning on the interior lights (as the PAG installation does). The relay's output is +12v. when used for defogging. So, I decided to add an additional PAG general purpose relay to my circuit to invert the output. If you wanted to control ONLY the footwell light assemblies, the second relay would not be needed. I also added another feature which I believe the PAG installation has, but which most people would probably not choose to install. I wanted not only the footwell lights to come on when I pressed the switch, but also ALL of the interior lights, including both map lights and the dome light, regardless of where their switches were set. To get this override capability, I added one additional wire, routed to the overhead light assembly, which would connect to 3 isolation diodes on the assembly's PC board.
  2. You might be interested in the info I provided in this thread: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ic=2245&hl= I imagine, though, that you would want to connect pin #5 of the FWL switch to pin #5 of the relay to have the amber LED illuminate when your FW Lights are ON, rather than OFF.
  3. The Digi-Key part no. for the GREEN LED is: 67-1365-1-ND ($0.64 ea.). The YELLOW LED p/n is: 67-1367-1-ND ($0.64 ea.). The LEDs are only about 1/8" x 3/32," so the soldering area on each side is miniscule. I would advise ordering more than one LED, in case you accidentally melt the device while soldering it onto the switch's PC board! Take note that the cathode side of the LED is denoted by a diagonal cut at one corner of the LED. You can easily see it on the right-hand LED in the pic. Each LED is sealed in a tiny plastic enclosure to keep humidity out until it's time to solder the LED in place. I used a modeler's knife to cut it away.
  4. Like you, I found the glare from the red LED to be annoying in my '99 996 coupe. My solution was to replace it with a green LED I purchased from Digikey. It takes some careful soldering with a low wattage iron, but green is a lot easier on the eyes. It also seems more appropriate for indicating the doors are locked. It sometimes is a little hard to see in direct sunlight, so I don't think I'd recommend it for a 996 Cab., or a Boxster. BTW, I also tried an amber LED, but still found it a bit annoying at night.
  5. I don't know of any 986 or 996 toggle switch which mechanically latches, however, a latching relay circuit might be in order. Take a look at the info I posted awhile back: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=2245&hl= Be careful to observe the current limitation of the contacts on the latching relay as well as the source of +12 volts. You will probably want the amber LED in the FWL switch to illuminate when the relay is "set," or "on," rather than "reset," or "off. Consequently, you will need to connect the wire coming from pin 5 of the FWL switch to pin 5 of the relay, instead of to pin 1, as I drew it for David T.
  6. Are you sure you're getting a double beep when you lock the door with the key, rather than a single beep? I once ran a test with my 996 where I intentionally left one of my keys in the ignition switch, forcing the switch contact which senses a key's insertion, closed. After closing the door, I was unable to lock the car using the remote, but was able to do it usng a key in the door lock. The alarm system gave me a single beep when I used the door lock, evidently to remind me that I left a key in the ignition switch! So, if that one contact of the ignition switch is stuck shut, I guess it would give you a single beep symptom. One thing you might have to be concerned about if that contact is bad... A couple of systems such as the immobilizer and airbag may be continuously powered, putting a drain on the battery. Have you seen any sign of your battery being a bit weak? BTW, my ignition switch had to be replaced somewhere around 25,000 miles.
  7. Here's the unit's location on my '99 C2 Coupe. It's mounted on the floor hump, at the bottom of the forward lower console, underneath the dash. You can just make out the mating yellow electrical connector (orange handle) at its left side. There's a large orange warning label on the top surface of its right side. You can gain complete access to the unit by removing the carpeted, triangular side-panels at the base of the center console. To remove each panel, unsnap it by pulling gently outward its the forward edge, then slide the panel forward a bit to disengage its aft edge from the base of the console.
  8. Yes, you can bench test the relay, but the hook-up gets a bit difficult because the relay needs to monitor the position of the wiper motor for it to operate normally. The relay normally sees a ground from the motor when the wiper arm is parked and +12v. when the arm is out of the parked position. I recently bread-boarded the relay on my test bench to run some experiments for determining how to shorten the interval range selected by the rotary control. Consequently, I can give you an idea of what you need to go through to check the relay out. Pin 1 needs +12v. through a fixed or variable resistor, within the resistance range I previously described. This simulates the potentiometer input from the rotary control. Pin 2 needs no connection. Pin 3 is the +12v. output of the relay to the low speed winding of the wiper motor. That winding is used for intermittent and low speed operation. You don't need any connection to this pin to get the relay to operate, just for measurement purposes. Pin 4 needs a ground to start one intermittent cycle. The ground simulates the wiper parked. If you hold the ground on this pin you will hear one click and release of the relay (the interval being determined by the resistance on pin 1). Removing the ground and reapplying it will give you another single cycle. You need to alternately apply a ground, then +12v., then a ground again, in sync. with the operation of the relay to get a "continuous" sequence of delayed intervals. That is, unless you can actually hook a wiper motor up to the relay, or to a motor with a SPDT switch geared to it, to simulate the limit switch's operation. Pin 5 needs +12v. (primary power). Pin 6 needs +12v. to simulate selecting the intermittent mode with the wiper lever arm. Pin 7 needs a ground. So, you can see why it would probably be much easier to just try another relay!!!
  9. If the harness has three wires, then it's probably the connector used for making EGR periodic checks. The wires mate with the Motronic. The connector normally doesn't mate with any other connector. However, to keep its contacts clean, it's normally stowed (snap fit) in a black retangular receptacle (box) located at the far right side of the engine compartment just below the spoiler actuator harness' mating connectors. If you have troble locating the receptacle, I could post a pic. of what it looks like on my '99 996, later this evening.
  10. There's no separate fuse for the intermittent mode. It uses the same fuse (C6) utilized for the high and low speed modes. The weakest link in the relay unit is the mechanical relay inside it. You might take a small screwrdriver and see if the relay's armature moves freely and its contacts aren't welded shut. If the contacts look like they're pitted or show signs of arcing excessively, you may be able to dress them with a tool designed for that job, or a narrow strip of very fine sandpaper. It might restore operation temporarily.
  11. After looking over the wiring diagram for a Targa shade (blinds) switch, its internals appear to be identical to the diagram for a 996TT spoiler control switch which I've attached. BTW, if you find some other switch which has more desirable graphics on it, you should be able to transfer its toggle (cap) over to the body of a Targa shade switch, or 996TT spoiler switch, and use that combination.
  12. Here's some info which may help: If the potentiometer is open between pins 1 & 2 you would get the exact symptoms you describe. Pin 1 is next to the "little staircase" key/tab side of the connector and mates with YELLOW/RED. Pin 2 mates with BLACK/GREEN. On my'99 996, the pot. measures between pins 1 & 2, approx. 230k ohms when rotated fully C.C.W. and approx. 30k ohms when fully C.W. I have completely disassembled the rotary control and found it to be quite sturdily built, but I imagine it could go bad, particularly the wiper contact. The laws of probability would seem to suggest that the wiper relay is most likely the culprit, however, if you have carefully measured the pot's. resistance between pins 1 & 2 and it shows open in all positions of the control, that would have to be the problem. If you have access to some fixed resistors, you could pick a value somewhere within the range I specified above and insert the resistor's leads into pins 1 & 2 of the control's mating female connector. This would allow to verify the relay's operation. Pins 3 & 4 are used only for night illumination. Do you have a fellow 996 owner who would allow you to use his relay for quick troubleshooting?
  13. Looking at the back of the switch, each terminal is labeled with a very, very, small number. The nite illumination terminals are the most outboard terminals (#5 on the left, and #3 on the right). This is, assuming you're looking at the switch, upright, with the two terminals that are very close together (#2 & #1) at the top. Terminal #3 would normally be connected to a ground (BROWN) and terminal #5 connected to the positive LED dimming bus source (GREY/BLUE/RED) to get the nite illumination functioning on that switch. You mentioned that you've figured out the switch's internal connections. If you have any doubts about the idiosyncrasies of the power window switch and how it differs from other switches, you might want to check out this link below, to a RennTech thread. The thread has a wiring diagram for the switch and I made a few comments there about the switch's operation. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...557entry29557 Keep in mind, that the ground you connect to terminal #3 on the switch will be felt at the output of terminals #1 & #2 whenever the switch toggle is NOT being pressed. Here's the female telephone prep. connector connections on my '99 996 Coupe: #1. RED/GREEN - +12V (fuse E6), from the batt. However, it needs a 7.5a fuse & a second fuse contact installed on the fuse panel to be active. #2. GREEN/BLACK - +12V (fuse E8), ign. switch position II & III #3. YELLOW/BLACK - tel. mute #4. BROWN - ground
  14. After reading your post I suppose 0586lb is in the right way Let´s see.... ..... there are two kinds of illumination in cluster: 1) Entire panel: Only lights when switch exterior lights. Can be adjusted by switch on cluster. 2) Digital displays: can not be adjusted by switch on cluster. Here is where sensor illumination works. When environment light is dark, digital display is darker. When environment light is clear, digital display is clearer. Always to keep optimal vision of digital displays. Am I right? :) :) :) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Please confirm my reply..... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Sorry, but you still don't have it exactly right. Let me try this: First; there is separate INSTRUMENT FACE lighting and DIGITAL DISPLAY lighting on the cluster. 1. The INSTRUMENT FACE lighting illuminates ONLY when you have your exterior lights on. They have ONLY manual intensity control using the left-hand knob, which has a bulb symbol on it. 2. The DIGITAL DISPLAYS are illuminated when you have the ignition on, OR, you have your exterior lights on, OR, when you momentarily press down on either knob on the instrument cluster with the ign. off. Their intensity is controlled ONLY by the light sensor (high end of the tach.) when ONLY the ignition is on, OR, when you momentarily press down either knob on the instrument cluster with the ign. off. Their intensity is controlled by BOTH the light sensor AND the left-hand knob whenever your EXTERIOR LIGHTS ARE ON. So, basically, if your words "ENTIRE PANEL" are referring to the INSTRUMENT FACE lighting, your statement 1) is correct. Your statement 2) is incorrect, because when your exterior lights are on, the DIGITAL DISPLAY lighting can be controlled by the light sensor AND the left-hand knob. I have verified the above functions on my '99 996 Coupe. I guess the cluster illumination operation could possibly be different for a 986, but it would really surprise me.
  15. There is one way to get "half" of what you want. There is a 12v. input to the front window motors on 996s which PAG calls "RELEASE TAP UP" (BLACK wire). It's supplied from fuse B6. You can see how it works by pulling that fuse. The "auto-up" feature will be disabled. The "auto-down" feature is retained. I tried it on my '99 996 Coupe and every other function affecting window operation that I could think of, seemed undisturbed. Don't know about a Cab. However, the problem is... Fuse B6 also supplies voltage for the 996 TURN SIGNALS. So, leaving the B6 fuse out, renders the signals inoperative! To perform a mod. on the black wires to get around the problem, would involve getting into your wiring somewhat, probably done easiest at the door hinge electrical connectors. One thing I didn't have time to experiment with, is the amount of force provided when you "manual-up" the window. I assume it will be maximum force and may not reverse when it encounters an obstruction, as it does when the "auto-up" feature is functioning.
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