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About Sandy

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  • From
    The hills of the Berkshires
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    1999 996 Coupe
  • Former cars
    924 Turbo, 944 Turbo, 928S4

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541 profile views
  1. I once had access to a 996 with the "PAG Exclusive" FWL system and was able to learn a few things about the installation. The light assemblies were mounted near the forward edge of the removable carpeted side panels (see pic.). They had plastic shrouds mounted around them to prevent lamp backscatter. I could see no additional relays mounted on the forward relay panel under the dash. I wasn't allowed to remove any panels, so I have no idea what the FWL switch controlled. I've often wondered if Loren, or Jeff (Tool Pants), with their dealer contacts, would be able to get diagrams of the circuit
  2. You might be interested in the info I provided in this thread: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ic=2245&hl= I imagine, though, that you would want to connect pin #5 of the FWL switch to pin #5 of the relay to have the amber LED illuminate when your FW Lights are ON, rather than OFF.
  3. The Digi-Key part no. for the GREEN LED is: 67-1365-1-ND ($0.64 ea.). The YELLOW LED p/n is: 67-1367-1-ND ($0.64 ea.). The LEDs are only about 1/8" x 3/32," so the soldering area on each side is miniscule. I would advise ordering more than one LED, in case you accidentally melt the device while soldering it onto the switch's PC board! Take note that the cathode side of the LED is denoted by a diagonal cut at one corner of the LED. You can easily see it on the right-hand LED in the pic. Each LED is sealed in a tiny plastic enclosure to keep humidity out until it's time to solder the LED in
  4. Like you, I found the glare from the red LED to be annoying in my '99 996 coupe. My solution was to replace it with a green LED I purchased from Digikey. It takes some careful soldering with a low wattage iron, but green is a lot easier on the eyes. It also seems more appropriate for indicating the doors are locked. It sometimes is a little hard to see in direct sunlight, so I don't think I'd recommend it for a 996 Cab., or a Boxster. BTW, I also tried an amber LED, but still found it a bit annoying at night.
  5. I don't know of any 986 or 996 toggle switch which mechanically latches, however, a latching relay circuit might be in order. Take a look at the info I posted awhile back: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=2245&hl= Be careful to observe the current limitation of the contacts on the latching relay as well as the source of +12 volts. You will probably want the amber LED in the FWL switch to illuminate when the relay is "set," or "on," rather than "reset," or "off. Consequently, you will need to connect the wire coming from pin 5 of the FWL switch to pin 5 of the relay,
  6. Are you sure you're getting a double beep when you lock the door with the key, rather than a single beep? I once ran a test with my 996 where I intentionally left one of my keys in the ignition switch, forcing the switch contact which senses a key's insertion, closed. After closing the door, I was unable to lock the car using the remote, but was able to do it usng a key in the door lock. The alarm system gave me a single beep when I used the door lock, evidently to remind me that I left a key in the ignition switch! So, if that one contact of the ignition switch is stuck shut, I guess it w
  7. Here's the unit's location on my '99 C2 Coupe. It's mounted on the floor hump, at the bottom of the forward lower console, underneath the dash. You can just make out the mating yellow electrical connector (orange handle) at its left side. There's a large orange warning label on the top surface of its right side. You can gain complete access to the unit by removing the carpeted, triangular side-panels at the base of the center console. To remove each panel, unsnap it by pulling gently outward its the forward edge, then slide the panel forward a bit to disengage its aft edge from the base
  8. Yes, you can bench test the relay, but the hook-up gets a bit difficult because the relay needs to monitor the position of the wiper motor for it to operate normally. The relay normally sees a ground from the motor when the wiper arm is parked and +12v. when the arm is out of the parked position. I recently bread-boarded the relay on my test bench to run some experiments for determining how to shorten the interval range selected by the rotary control. Consequently, I can give you an idea of what you need to go through to check the relay out. Pin 1 needs +12v. through a fixed or variable re
  9. If the harness has three wires, then it's probably the connector used for making EGR periodic checks. The wires mate with the Motronic. The connector normally doesn't mate with any other connector. However, to keep its contacts clean, it's normally stowed (snap fit) in a black retangular receptacle (box) located at the far right side of the engine compartment just below the spoiler actuator harness' mating connectors. If you have troble locating the receptacle, I could post a pic. of what it looks like on my '99 996, later this evening.
  10. There's no separate fuse for the intermittent mode. It uses the same fuse (C6) utilized for the high and low speed modes. The weakest link in the relay unit is the mechanical relay inside it. You might take a small screwrdriver and see if the relay's armature moves freely and its contacts aren't welded shut. If the contacts look like they're pitted or show signs of arcing excessively, you may be able to dress them with a tool designed for that job, or a narrow strip of very fine sandpaper. It might restore operation temporarily.
  11. After looking over the wiring diagram for a Targa shade (blinds) switch, its internals appear to be identical to the diagram for a 996TT spoiler control switch which I've attached. BTW, if you find some other switch which has more desirable graphics on it, you should be able to transfer its toggle (cap) over to the body of a Targa shade switch, or 996TT spoiler switch, and use that combination.
  12. Here's some info which may help: If the potentiometer is open between pins 1 & 2 you would get the exact symptoms you describe. Pin 1 is next to the "little staircase" key/tab side of the connector and mates with YELLOW/RED. Pin 2 mates with BLACK/GREEN. On my'99 996, the pot. measures between pins 1 & 2, approx. 230k ohms when rotated fully C.C.W. and approx. 30k ohms when fully C.W. I have completely disassembled the rotary control and found it to be quite sturdily built, but I imagine it could go bad, particularly the wiper contact. The laws of probability would seem to suggest
  13. Looking at the back of the switch, each terminal is labeled with a very, very, small number. The nite illumination terminals are the most outboard terminals (#5 on the left, and #3 on the right). This is, assuming you're looking at the switch, upright, with the two terminals that are very close together (#2 & #1) at the top. Terminal #3 would normally be connected to a ground (BROWN) and terminal #5 connected to the positive LED dimming bus source (GREY/BLUE/RED) to get the nite illumination functioning on that switch. You mentioned that you've figured out the switch's internal connect
  14. After reading your post I suppose 0586lb is in the right way Let´s see.... ..... there are two kinds of illumination in cluster: 1) Entire panel: Only lights when switch exterior lights. Can be adjusted by switch on cluster. 2) Digital displays: can not be adjusted by switch on cluster. Here is where sensor illumination works. When environment light is dark, digital display is darker. When environment light is clear, digital display is clearer. Always to keep optimal vision of digital displays. Am I right? :) :) :) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Please confirm my reply...
  15. There is one way to get "half" of what you want. There is a 12v. input to the front window motors on 996s which PAG calls "RELEASE TAP UP" (BLACK wire). It's supplied from fuse B6. You can see how it works by pulling that fuse. The "auto-up" feature will be disabled. The "auto-down" feature is retained. I tried it on my '99 996 Coupe and every other function affecting window operation that I could think of, seemed undisturbed. Don't know about a Cab. However, the problem is... Fuse B6 also supplies voltage for the 996 TURN SIGNALS. So, leaving the B6 fuse out, renders the signals inoperative
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