dghii

Just did this job last Friday. The cable simply feeds through the back of the wheel carrier. There is no locking mechanism. Just release the cable from the ratchet piece (the peice between the brake shoes at the bottom of the hub), by removing circlip at the top of the pin and pull the pin downward out of the cable end. Once the cable is free from the ratchet mechanism, just pull (and twist slightly) the cable out of the back of the wheel carrier. The fun is when you get to put it all back together. Do you have the pictures from Glyn? Glyn's tutorial has very nice pictures of the parking brake assembly.

Thanks for the reply about the labor time. I could certainly see 2 hours with the SIR tool. I bet I spent an hour trying to reconnect the parking brake cable at the hub. My only real goof was not realizing I had one of the shoes upside down (tired idiot by that point). Went so far as trying to put the rotor back on and could not understand why it wouldn't fit..... I actually queried two different garages and both quotes were within $20. Both went with the book hours on their quote.

One other question...How long does the a wheel bearing change take with 'the tool'? My local indy was quoting 4.5 hours.

Needless to say I'm jealous. I would have loved to have access to the tool. Just don't think I can justify purchasing the tool for one ten year old car.

I replaced my drivers side rear wheel bearing today after putting up with the noise for the last 6 months. I couldn't believe local indys were asking for about $600 to do one side but now I can appreciate why! I took advantage of our Navy base auto hobby shop and went to work with bought a bearing from Autohaus for $39 and a new Axle nut from Rock Auto for about $3 plus shipping. Five hours later, I have a nice quiet rear end again. Yes I'm slow and I know why I don't mechanic for a living. I was fortunate to have come across a thread on this site with an entry from Glyn, who had done this job on his own and had done a great job documenting his work. I printed out his document that he was so kind to email me and used it to perform my work. Given the access I had to a first rate shop, the parts that I though would be tough such as removing the carrier and pressing out the hub and bearing were actually not that bad. I did have one heck of a time reassembling the parking brake and connecting the cable. Although I had no problems removing the parking brake shoes and cable, I did spend considerable time replacing the items. Access to the parking brake cable was very tight. I also managed to install one brake shoe upside down, not realizing my error until I couldn't get the rotor to seat on the hub. Idiot. I'd like to say that if I had to do the other side tomorrow I could do it in a fraction of the time of today's efforts but right now I'm not sure. One thing I do know, I'm not doing the other side until it starts to scream. Thanks again to Glyn. Anyone looking to do a bearing job shop ask for his instructions.

I have some black, stock looking seat covers that are in very good shape and not being used. PM me if you'd like and I'll send you some pics.

You might want to take a quick look under your trunk carpet to check for any sign of a coolant tank leak. I'd assume your garage might have checked the tank when they decided you simply had air in the system, but it might be worth a check anyway. Also, don't add coolant to the max line when cool as you will loose the excess after the engine gets hot. Half way between MIN and MAX line is sufficient level for cold engine.

Bought duplicolor 'red' caliper paint for my 2000 Boxster S. I went with the brush on solution and found it easy to use. didn't clear coat after the paint. Also purchased decals off of ebay. Easy job and looks great.

I bought a 2000 Boxster S last summer with 76K miles and an airbag light on. The previous owner had had the buckle/TSB work done and the light cleared but came back after about 6 months. I took the car back to the same indy (very versed in Porsches) and had the code cleared but the mechanic told me it was coming back on and he would have to do some looking to checking to figure out how to clear the light for good. Well, after six months of enjoying the car, with no other problems to report, I decided to simply remove the offending airbag light. I figured that removing the light would look better than tape. Getting to the light was fairly simple (r/r took about 20 minutes) and now my instrument panel looks so much better! I know that I didn't fix anything, and sometime, at my convenience, I may try to have the airbag light problem truely fixed. For now, I'll enjoy my redlight free Boxster.