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Done this a few times. Get both ends started before you tighten everything up.
Its just a bolt.
You have a broke spring that connects to the door handle. Very common problem and best part, costs $0 to fix! Follow instructions to remove door panel (make sure you disconnect battery due to side air bag). You will see your busted spring. Most likely,on one end of the spring, the "U" shape will be busted. The the spring out and bend a new "U" in the broke end and reattach. That simple! Of course, if you are a big spender, you can always source a new spring, but this fix will work without issue.
Don't worry about buying another spring. You can reuse your existing spring. When you remove the door panel, you will see that one end of your spring will be broke. Simply take a pair of plyers and work the broke end into a "U" shape and reconnect it to the handle. It will work fine. The spring is very strong and once the end is fixed, you'll be good as new. I had this issue in my 2000 S back in November. The whole repair is easy and takes less than 1 hour, even never having done it before. Good luck!
You simply do the best you can do.....remove as much of the old grease as possible and repack. No, you will not be able to do as good a job as on the inner joint but getting the new grease in and a new boot should still do the trick. I the repack and new boots on both axles last fall. The job is messy but not really difficult. I got boots at Autohaus az for about $10 each.
Even though you did not touch your v- lever arms during your replacement, you did introduce a new variable...the new top frame. How do you know that the new frame alignment etc is identical to your old frame? A few things to check out... Perhaps the new frame is not engaging the microswitch on the windshield frame at the same time as the old top did. When is the B pilar switch engaged? The plastic pivot pieces may indeed be worn and need replacement. Check to see that both transmissions are indeed in sync by doing the following; 1. Disconnect your top frame from the v-lever arms. 2. Press your top button and rotate the arms until the clam shell arms are veritcal. Verify plumb with torpedo level. 3. Adjust transmissions by disconnecting the drive cables from the motor and rotating slowly with a cordless drill. 4. Reconnect drive cables and lower clamshell until it is just above the trunk and look 'eyeball' it for level.
Sounds like you have a workable solution. When your boots do finally split, you can get replacement kits for about $10/boot, which inlcudeds the boot, grease, clamps, snap ring and end plate(for inner CV). You remove the half shaft, clean out the grease and regrease and reassemble. It's a dirty job but certainly a DYI if you're up for it.
How long has it been since you replaced your ignition switch? A bad switch will send you a regular witch hunt of weird problems. I've replace two recently in my two Boxsters... 2000S ...My radio would not turn off when I turned the car off and removed the key ( it should play for 10-15 seconds or so) and the interior light would not go out. 1998...All my climate controls quit working occasionally when I would start the car and then work fine the next time. Radio would work fine one time and then have no power next time I started the car. All were solved by installing new ignition switches. For a $15 investment and an hours worth of your time, you might want to try replacing the switch and see if it helps.
Sounds like you have a bad battery. No way you should see voltages that low while cranking. Try a known good battery before anything else. Just ran through a similar problem on an Alfa Romeo Spider. That car needs 10.7V while cranking in order for the ECU to send a signal to the coil for spark. My car would turn over pretty good but would not fire. Checking with a meter during cranking showed a voltage of 9.8Vdc. Connecting a charger (on START mode) got the car running for a minute but it died as soon as I removed the charger. New battery. Problem solved.
Mine was like the first pic with a crack along the bottom. Have you pulled up your trunck carpet? My leak got quickly worse from the first time or two I topped off the coolant to when I fixed the problem (about a month later). Not a terrible job if you heed the directions on the various forums. Took me about 4 hours, most of which were spent trying tighten up one of the hoses upon reassembly.
Would you buy it for putting the top back up? Or would the product be useless to you? Thanks for the responses everyone! I most likely would not buy the piece to 'one touch' my top back up as I still have to latch by hand. Best of luck to you though!