Daryl80

Hi all, Infocus that's great. So it sounds like the symptoms you and I share we're almost identical before you upgraded to the 030s. And that's what I'm worried about, that I simply need to buy a new set of suspension assuming that mine are worn. Anyway it's been 24 hours since I lowered my tire pressure and this is my impressions, the car definitely feels softer but the handling is also not as sharp. Due to somebody more focused on their cheeseburger rather than the road, had to swerve as they were pulling out of maccas. So with the evasive move definitely could feel the suspension working harder. Also seems I need to accelerate harder to get the car going. So all in all, it's pretty much what I expected, still looking for opinions on what parts I should change, just the struts, springs or more? But yeah thanks guys for the feedback

Well lowered the psi down to 27 in the front and 33 to rear and started looking for potholes, tram lines and the like to run over and hey it feels better! Hehe Thanks for the tip. Still not completely there and give visually how low the front tires are, not sure from a tire life perspective how sustainable that is. So keen to hear more people's opinion on the Bilstein HD and whether these are comparable to stock. If it's the springs and not the struts causing the problem who wants to swap with me?

Thanks Guys, Really appreciate your thoughts and feedback. So I confirmed I was running 30psi in the front and 33psi in the back, so I think that was in the realm. As for options, it does show 030, so thank you for letting me confirm that. So if I am to go back to stock suspension (should I presume that is the US standard option?) I'm just not sure how its termed over here in Australia. Alternatively, could "stock" be equated to the Bilstein HD's? I'm ok with that, but just wanted to confirm as I read somewhere here, that stock and Bilstein HD's were an interchangeable term. Finally, I'm hearing that shocks is all I need, and there is no need for a new control arm, sway bars, springs or bushes etc...... Is that a safe assumption? Thanks guys Really appreciate it.....

Hi All, I've been caught in a bit of a dilemma of late and sought the opinions of other lovers of the 986 to help stop me in making a bad decision! And I wrote knowing I will be getting an (un)biased view here. :) So I own a 1997 Boxster done 77k miles running 17 inch tires and I must say the ride is starting to really annoy me. Moreso my wife is also starting to dislike the car as its quite uncomfortable and even for me I'm struggling to justify why we shouldn't get something softer. Some of the symptoms are very little absorption on shock, rattles from the suspension area (tho I really have no idea what is causing it) compared to my friends 350z my car just feels so much more loose and rattly and has lost what I feel is the taught, tight Boxster I once knew and love. So it got me thinking could I look at improving the suspension and tires to at least something a little more compliant, or do I concede that the ride is always going to be performance bent and hence the only solution is to sell Anyway to let you know my thoughts, I do love the handling of the Boxster. It's extremely focused and still corners wonderfully. I'm located in Australia and believe I have the ROW030 suspension set up (only as this is a car bought outside of the US) but given the horrible potholed excuse for roads here, it's not fun as my daily driver. The tires are the factory recommended Michellin Pilot Sports and whilst have no complaints am curious to hear of other peoples opinion in a more comfortable set of tires that won't blow the bank. As for suspension I'm thinking of changing them to the Bilstein HDs which seem to get a good wrap here. But am wondering should I also think about changing the control arms or bushes at the same time as well. Or can i get by with the existing items. Oh do I need to change the factory springs if i go for Bilsteins? Do springs get worn out? Please help, I would be happy to go the upgrade path for the Boxster, but again the realities of life mean I can't drain my total wage in maintaining it. I know it's a challenge we all face so thought I'd ask a sympathic ear to here your perspective. Loom forward to your replies Daryl

Ahhh right!! Thanks guys. That explains it. I'll put some 15A in them and let you all know how I go. Thanks guys. Appreciate your help

Oh! really so i can change the fuse type??? cos i thought the whole thing about a fuse is to keep it the factory standard so that i dont do any more serious damage, like melt the wires or something. But is is safe to get a 15amp? Cos yeah that could work..... Thank for sharing your experience....

Hi All, Thanks heaps for your replies. great to hear of other people's experiences, and glad I'm not alone here. Ok, so next stop new Yoko's perhaps and some Bilsteins. Not sure where to find a set of ROW's in Australia, but I'll keep the hunt out as well. - ------- mcmike27, any reason why you only changed the rear struts? - infocusf8, you inspire me to keep this car for a while too...... thanks all! Daryl

Hi All, Seeking a peculiar request here. I've owned my Boxster for a fair few years now, and I've loved every minute of it. But having recently moved to an area that seems to be littered in potholes and tram tracks and uneven roads,, and as age has started to ruin my back, I was seeking input on whether there's anyway on smoothing the ride of my car. I don't want to sacrifice handling too much, as thats the allure of the Boxster, but my fear is that now a 13 year old car, is there the potential of worn shocks, suspension etc that is exacerbating the situation. People tells me its tyres, and I couldn't agree more, but I'm not sure what to get, that provides that balance of performance and balance. Also being located in Australia, makes all the fancy stuff discussed here even more difficult to get. So keen to hear your thoughts, is there anything in particular I should look at, tell tale signs of wear. I know it will never will be a tugboat of a car, but when compared to other younger sports cars I've driven, the Boxster doesn't have that crispness too it, and I just cant put my finger on why. Please don't flame me and tell me to sell the car. I can't bear to part with it, and it does handle beautifully and gives me enough of a smile when I bring the kid out in me, and give it a little squirt. But keen to hear thoughts and opinions that may help Thanks to all who reply Daryl

Hi All, Hoping to get some advice on this one. I recently installed a set of slim HID's however recently its caused a problem where the fuse keeps on blowing. That is, I installed them about a week ago, drove a good few hours over several nights without problem. However last night, I noticed that the driver's side went out. Initially I was quite annoyed as I thought the HID itself was gone, but after changing back to the stock bulbs and still not working, did it occur to me it was the fuse under the steering column. New fuse, and I managed to prove at least the stock lamps work, but when I changed back to the HID's, the fuse gave out straight away. Now I know a blown fuse indicates its stopping something worse, but I have absolutely no idea on how to work out where the fault is, let alone fix it. I did the switcharoo between the right side and left HID's just to see if the unit itself was at fault, but once again, the drivers side remained dark, whilst the passenger was fine. So seems like its something in the headlight itself. Can anybody offer any advice to work out whats going on? I'm lost and since the whole lamp comes out, I'm not even sure how to test anything? Thanks in advance to any comments and suggestions Cheers!

Hi, I know this thread is now quite old, but can somebody offer any advice on how big this ballast is? I'm trying to look for a kit on ebay and more slim design ones are 3 x 2.5 x 0.5 inches. It just seems that the kit in this instructions seem to have a smaller ballast. Since I want everything to fit, I'm looking one similar. Can anybody please advise? Thanks!

Hi, Has this project gone any further. I would definitely be interested in a set up like this. Please let me know or PM me. Thank you!

Hi Trieullionaire and Marc I was hoping to get a copy of the file Porsche badge logo also. I wouldn't mind trying it with and without the lettering. May I ask if somebody could send it to me at daryl-wong@hotmail.com? Thank you ps. Trieullionaire, thanks for passing the word to your brother. I'll keep on checking his store on eBay each day and will get the the AVIC unit once it pops up. Cheers!

Hi Trieullionaire Emailed your brother, but hoping if you could find out when he'll release the next set of double din Pioneer AVIC kits for thr 986. My friends and I are keen to buy one, but he hasn't auctioned one for quite some time. Thanks! Daryl

Hi Trieullionaire, Thanks again for your input. I definitely take your point about not being able to stock all cages. The problem I have is that located in Australia there is absolutely nothing here!!! I've even called Pioneer Australia, who actually sent me the wrong part! and then later stated, they don't even have a double din part. As such, I seek your help and your brother's help on whether you're willing to sell a double din cage and the necessary brackets to fit. I would also love to get a setter trim also, as I'm a complete newb and am really scared of destroying my dash. Can you please advise if this is possible, and if so, how much it would cost to ship to Australia? My zipcode is 3000. Feel free to PM with the details if you prefer. Happy to pay by paypal or as required. Thanks! Daryl

Hi All Sorry for re-opening an old post, but I guess its better than starting a new one. Anyway, went for a drive this evening, and went over some bumpier country roads. However when I returned back onto the highway, the noise that John V posted started occurring. Again the symptoms are the same (chirping increases at higher revs, after 3000rpm, exhaust note drowns out the chirp, happens at low idle, regardless of clutch is in or not) I'm hoping its something as simple as the spark plug being loose, however as I'm a total newb, can somebody please advise on how I can tighten it. Reading in another post, I believe the instruction to change the sparks plugs are: Safely Jack Car, support on Jack Stands Remove Rear Wheels Remove Plastic Wheel Well Liner in forward location of each wheel Remove Spark Plug Ignition Wire Remove two hex hed screws holding each spark plug coil in place Pull gently on rectangular spark plug coil to remove You'll be left with spark plug still in car, about 6" inside the outer edge of the motore Remove and replace each plug. Can somebody please advise at which step, should I tighten the spark plug. Also, I'm aware there is a torque limit, and that I shouldn't over tighten. Is there any tools, or advice I should use to tighten this up? Appreciate any feedback and support on the matter. Thanks in advance.

Hi all, thank you for your prompt reply. I do take your points on board, but I just have a few question for some individual responses here. JeTexas, may I ask what is a ground loop insulator, and what causes a ground loop. I've done a wiki search on it, but dont really get it. If I try this out and still get noise, maybe I will get one of these juniinc, thanks for your response also. Your amp placement is exactly what I'm looking to do also. I think for me, my master brake cylinder is on the right hand side, so I think thats why the holes in the FW are flipped. But can you just confirm, that means, you still had to wire your power cables, and your RCA's/ speaker cables through the one trunk hole. I guess this is what i wanted to avoid. Oh, and one last question juniinc, how did you mount your amp. It looks like its on an angle. Looks great, just keen to get some mounting tips on how i can secure it down. Thanks again to all who reply.

Hi All, I've done a search on this, but can't find the answer to my question. I'm currently in the process of upgrading my car stereo, replacing HU, adding an amp etc, and am in the process of putting the amp in. Now I understand that the only way of getting the wires through, is through the firewall on the passenger side, then through the trunk wall on the drivers side. However, what that has meant is of course, both RCA's and speakers are sitting pretty much either behind or infront of the battery. Not only that given that I need to run a power and ground wire into the trunk from the battery, I also need to use the same trunk hole as the speakers/ RCA's to wire the power cables through. Now, my concern of course is with engine and more so alternator whine by not insulating the cables correctly. I know that interference can be caused due to the fact that power is too close to the audio signal cables. Combined by the fact that the RCA's and speakers cables need to go over the battery, I'm just worried that all I will hear is the alternator through my stereo. As such, is there any way to separate the proximity of the speaker cables/ RCA's with any of the power cables or batteries. The diagram shows in solid lines where the cables are now. The dotted line is where I would ideally like the cables to be routed. Is this at all possible? I really haven't done any exploritory surgery of the car trunk, to see if this is feasible or not. I see that the trunk walls have carpeted on the side, so I'm think something must be possible. Keen to hear your thoughts. What has been other people's experience in wiring amps/ speakers etc. Am I being overly cautious. I just have had several bad experiences where alternator whine, has ruined a perfectly good system. And finally, I am using good quality RCA's and speakers, and have paid a premium for it. I just want to make sure I'm doing all I can to remove any unwanted noise. Thanks! Daryl

Hi Tril I also noticed that on the eBay sales, you're now offering with the kit, the "Custom Porsche 2-Din Housing (cage sleeve) Setter" Is this the new metal housing that should be used now, and would this work instead of that metal sleave? Again, keen to hear you reply, on what other parts I now need to secure the head unit. Oh, and just to let you know, what I've got so far, is the • Faceplates • Porsche Custom Support Bracket, lower one with the velcro tape for stability • Heat Shield • "PORSCHE" Decals • Radio removal keys included to remove existing OEM radio • Wire harnesses Thanks again Daryl

Hi Trieullionaire, Writing to let you know that I too bought this kit and the workman ship is fantastic. However one question though, was the kit meant to come with the double din metal bracket/ housing? As in the one that the headunit slides into? I never received one, so am keen to know where you got yours from. My HU never came with one either, so based on your instruction guide, I'm stuck on step 7 - fitting the 2 din housing into the plastic factory housing. If you also one spare, may I ask would you be willing to sell it as I'm a bit lost now, with a half chiselled out dash, and nothing to fit into it!? Keen to hear your reply, as with the job now half complete, I'm really eager to finish this off as soon as possible. Thanks again Daryl

The wonders of eBay - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Porsche-Update-Kit-...emZ220236363521 As you will read, its a replacement side front panels and front bumper. Looks to be of fibreglass, but am unsure on quality. Has anybody seen such things before. Thoughts? I'm still undecided.

Hi All, I'm sure I wrote this in another post, but I can't find it. Anyway, rahlstrom, are you saying that your RCA's were all jammed in the back behind the HU, and that you were able to carefully route the RCA's to the HU. My only question is how did you do that. I just see no way of avoiding the battery, given where the hole in the firewall is located. Which path did you take? Ross1 and Chitowndad, ground looping makes sense, and using the same ground, the chassis, also makes good sense too. I can ground the amp to the body, where the battery connects to the metal, but how about the HU? I originally used the factory brown wire, and you're right, got that hum. But where else is there a clean piece of chassis metal inside the cabin? I didnt have the factory amp, so and advice on where I should ground the HU to the chassis and how I should run the wire would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Hey mate Made them myself. Is this a potential business opportunity here? hehe Pain in the butt tho, made with MDF, sanded to shape, covered with resin to make hard, sprayed black. Took ages!

I just had an idea. What if I put the 6.5inch speakers in the rear shelf compartment, like the "Upgrade Rear Shelf speaker kit" But instead point it upwards and drill/dremel a hole in the top? Would that sound better, or worse than in the door? What would happen if the roof is down, will it cover the noise? Hmmm, so many ideas..... Now where to find one of those rear shelf compartments? Anybody got one for sale?

Oh, and here are some pics on what I did to fit the 4inch splits. And like everybody elses, challenges, here is my interpretation on how to over come those

Hi All, I seek your help. I write with a 97 986 Boxster, that had the standard, low end stereo system. (4 inch paper speakers, no tweeter, no amp.... thats it!) Unsatisfied with the sound, I've gone ahead and done the following. Changed the HU to a nice Nakamichi deck Installed a 3 channel Audison amp Bought a Rainbow, 3-way component speakers. (1 inch tweet, 4 inch mid, and 6.5inch woofer) So I've gone ahead and installed everything but the 6.5 woofer. The reason being, my car was never designed for door speakers, and reading some old posts here, there is concern over clearance for windows. So, can I ask, how difficult is it to add door speakers to a door not designed for them (i.e, they are completely flat) I've got a set of door speakers from eBay and am hoping to use those also. Having done some reading, I've downloaded Andy Morris' pdf file. Great info, so I also have the baffle design to fit 6.5inch speakers. I just need to know what mods I need to do to the door trim. One last thing, I'm actually located in Melbourne, Australia. Parts, such as replacing doors aren't really a cheap option here, so much prefer to fabricate something. Better yet, employ the services of a professional locally to do it for me! ;) Appreciate, and advice people can offer. Cheers! Daryl