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wce
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Everything posted by wce
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Some words of warning regarding the Optima battery replacement option: After all this custom fabrication, you end up with a battery less secure than the original, significantly less capacity and CCA, and save very few pounds over a normal replacement battery. How Optima could design their battery case to be incompatible with standard mounting provisions is beyond me! When I did this swap myself, I somehow managed to get a few drops of battery acid from the now unused vent tube on my fender which went unnoticed until they had burned into the paint! :censored: One year out my new Optima had lost it's energetic starts. Two years out, it would go flat in a couple of weeks! I returned it to Costco and they gave me my money back - no questions asked! (They even said I didn't need my receipt, which I still had, since the battery barcode would be in their system. After 2+ years it wasn't so that receipt came in handy!) Took my refund cash, and went to Autozone and bought a regular replacement battery like I should have done in the first place!
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I'll add a key point to keep in mind: the bleeder valve CAN introduce air into your drain tube when the fluid is flowing! This will give the appearance of air coming out of the caliper when in fact it is seeping in past the valve threads. You only need to open the valve about a quarter turn, much more will guarantee some air bubbles. If you have this problem, you can prove it's being introduced at the valve by pushing the valve in, sealing the threads. If the air bubbles stop - there's your source. When your done make sure the valve is securely closed! I would also recommend using the Motive pressure bleeder with air only. The unit's cap strangely doesn't have a gasket, and while it seemed to hold pressure, it did leak significant fluid when I used it "wet". Using air pressure keeps it clean, just don't risk letting the fluid level drop much below "min". I would say 2 refills (from just below min to top of the cap) for each rear brake and one for each front should be sufficient for a normal flush. I would also recommend the slightly more expensive "black label" unit with the swivel fitting if you plan on doing this often! Finally, below the reservoir inlet screen in most cars is the notoriously faulty float switch for the low fluid indicator. This blocks access by any turkey baster I've ever seen. The solution above seems like it should work, I just pumped the fluid level lower, although at the risk of getting air into the system. Happy bleeding!
