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pat056

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About pat056

  • Rank
    Contributing Member
  • Birthday 06/17/1956

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Profile Information

  • Interests
    PORSCHES<br />Racing Porsches<br />Driving Porsches<br />Reading about Porsches <br />Working on Porsches<br />Triathlons<br />Sex<br />Not necessarily in order of priority :)

Profile Fields

  • From
    South Carolina
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1992 964 Race Car
    1999 996 C2
    2000 Toyota Tundra
  • Future cars
    Happy for now(next 24 hours) but it will be a Porsche
  • Former cars
    1968 MGB
    1985 944
    1990 964 C2
    2002 E46 M3
  1. 2 other comments I'd like to make: 1) Insure you completely reconnect the spark plug wire to the boot by tugging gently on it after you install or by insuring you hear it click in place. If it's not completely connected, you will have a misfire and the CEL will come on. 2) Also, in jstephanou's last pic: the cable in the foreground is the engine ground. If you loosen this to better access that plug, INSURE you tighten it completely. I didn't and spent the afternoon trying to figure out why my car wouldn't start...
  2. Actually, so far, so good. I can't imagine just a quick bleed would help the shifting...guess I had some air in the line. I would think a clutch install is an agressive weekend project. Good luck and let me know how it goes?
  3. Update: I studied the work Straspec did on replacing his cable (thanks for a very thorough DYI w/pics.), looking specifically at the linkages. I got under my car last night and had my pit crew (wife) go through the gears so I could watch everything work. Everything seemed tight and looked almost new. I didn't get inside the console. I then did a quick clutch bleed. I saw that my fluid level was at the max mark, so I just hooked up the Motive w/o adding any fluid, pressurized the line to 15 psi, and bled about 2 oz. of fluid through the line (this took the fluid from the max. to the min. mark). I then topped of the fluid w/ATE Blue. No problems with the bleeding and I must say, the clutch seems to work noticably better. I really wasn't a believer that bleeding the clutch was much more than pm, but it seems to work OK now. I'll flush the system this weekend, bleeding the brakes and rebleed the clutch, using ATE blue until all's blue at each bleed point. I figure that's all bleeding can do.
  4. I think you're. right! I think some (hopefully not all) will apply to me. More news to follow... Pat
  5. 996C4SC (or anyone else) "I would check the linkage 1st before all that and make sure it's not a simple linkage problem" Anyone have a pic or diagram of specifically what I need to be looking for when I check the linkage? I drove the 996 last night and either my shifting skills are degrading fast or my clutch (?) issue is getting worse. I plant to get underneath the car ASAP and bleed clutch and check everything out. The issue I'm noticing is I'll shift from 1st to 2nd and think I'm in gear fine, let out the clutch only to hear the gears grind and realize I'm not in 2nd gear like I thought.
  6. I can't remember how mine sits. Did you tighten it up to see if it leaks?
  7. I would suspect clutch before transmission. I would think with 75k miles, it's about time for clutch wear to show. I have 70k on mine and am noticing some shifting problems. I'm gonna bleed mine this week, but feel like I'll be putting a clutch in withen 5k miles. I would like to hear some costs estimates myself...
  8. Thanks. Another question, can I use my power bleeder to bleed the clutch insted of pumping?
  9. Was studying the DYI on the clutch bleed. If I'm reading it correctly, it sounds like you open the bleeder valve and the beginning of step 2, then pump the clutch for 60 seconds, press the pedal down and hold it...all this with the bleeder valve open? I'm thinking like I would on bleeding brakes, and would think this would allow air into the system. This is my 1st clutch bleed, so this might be an elementary question. So am I reading correctly? Open bleeder and do the remainder of step 2 w/the valve open until Loren says close at the end of step 2? I've read some people say bleeding the clutch makes a significant improvement in clutch performance. Would you agree? I bought my car w/59,000 miles on it. It now has 70,000 and I don't know if it's been replaced. Pat
  10. If you don't get your answers here, try the race forum on Rennlist. They will have lots of experience here and a lot of those guys are DE only. Pat
  11. Do you guys know where I can find a DYI for front bumper replacement? I didn' t see one here.
  12. That's it...thanks! Any suggestions on who to get these parts from? Pat
  13. Loren On my 1999 996 C-2: I remember a couple of weeks ago, someone had a thread on some front bumper parts needing replacing. I need the black spacers(for lack of knowing the proper name) that go just inside the radiators, between the radiators and the center of the bumper. A passing truck blew a tire and a piece of rubber went right through it, putting a hole in it. Also after the front bumper scraped enough times on my driveway and curbs, those black pieces are either torn or missing. If you could supply me with that schematic and/or tell me the mane/part number of those parts, i would appreciate it. Also, where can I purchase those parts?
  14. I lost my waterpump and had to use whatever coolant was available. This happened to be Prestone that was listed as safe for all cars. Do you guys think I ought to perform this flush and refill with the Porsche type. there's no doubt I mixed them and probably have mostly the Prestone
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