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xflyboyx

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About xflyboyx

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    Contributing Member
  • Birthday 11/27/1958

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    FLYING (FLIGHT INSTRUCTOR), MOTORCYCLE RIDING, AUTO RACING, MECHANICALLY INCLINED ( AIRCRAFT MECHANIC )

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  • From
    Orangevale, CA
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    No
  • Present cars
    MOTORCYCLE KAWASAKI NINJA ZX10-R 2004
    2003 PORSCHE BOXSTER/SILVER
  • Future cars
    I GOT THE PORSCHE "BUG" STICKING WITH BOXSTERS FOR NOW
  • Former cars
    1978 CHEVY CAMARO Z28

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  1. as Loren mentioned on earlier post the quantity is 9.5 liters if transmission is empty. type : ESSO LT 71141 ( my experience is goldish in color ) how many types you can use with ZF transmission : jury still out and for a long time Porsche Dealer : $18/liter last time I paid and you have to take your own container or they sell fluid in a 20 liter container. VW dealer : part # G052162A2 (sold in quarts) $16-$19 differtnial fluid : manual suggest oil type: Hypoid transmisson oil, Burmah-Oil, SAF-AG 4/1016 fill capacity: approx. 0.8 Liter (check for TSB might have been change to 0.9 Liter as Loren mentioned) can't remember what I paid (Dealer) for it but somewhere around $30 (I hope I'm mistaken) if you changing the filter (recommended) as well with the gasket around $35-$45 hope all goes well, I'm interested in what you're going to do with the old one, PM if you will
  2. removing differential does not require you to take out the center bolt. after separating the drive shaft from the differential and also separating the left side drive shaft from transmission, you will be able to see the center bolts, again you don't have to remove the center at all to remove the differential take a look at the pix below be prepared to have a pan under the differential to capture the diff. fluid note that you have to take the left side first because its is attached to the diff. as you know for the left side have a pan handy to capture transmission fluid. to take the left shaft out , all you have to do is remove the 3 bolts behind the flange and pull gently. hope this will help you
  3. just like other members mentioned , you have to take the t/c with transmission you have to lock (if you will) the t/c to the transmission when backing up the transmission look at the pix and see the rod that is holding the t/c , purpose of rod is to hold the t/c and make sure that holes are aligned with the flex plate no you do not need a special tool but be very careful during assembly not to drop any bolt otherwise if you cannot not get it out , you have to remove the transmission again
  4. based on the pix provided, IMHO the likelihood of a leak from the cooler is remote, seems more like a brownish color than a transmission fluid color. there would 2 possible leaks from the cooler as you know , either coolant or transmission fluid.
  5. Actually that is the differential Oil, which have a very distinctive odor, and brownish in color. Definitley not a CV Boot issue. Before you start any work, I would clean the area first, drive it and recheck. DIY is possible there are 2 scenarios that the leak is coming from 1. drive shaft flange seal ( easy to do ) 2. differential O-Ring ( little bit complicated )
  6. then I would think that you should be able to use the transmission, the manual I have mention the A86/00 and A86/05 as you can see its just probably a model # but I'm sure everything is the same. the only thing I can think of different is the programming. and I would try both the original ecu and the one you can get with transmission. PM me on what you're going to do with old transmission. I you need any other help PM as well most importantly do further research take a look at this link from Pelican parts for more info transmission info by model & year
  7. have you verified that it is a transmission fluid vs engine oil , you know it could be IMS or RMS issue. If it is transmission fluid. Lets hope its only the seal. IMHO bushing and front pump damage its not easy to do unless you drive very had with lots of gear changes, specially down shifts, my experience is I used to downshift to help in breaking, even to first gear from I believe 35 mph or so, that might had something to do with spining out the bushing, you never know. using 3.2 S transmssion, can you get the green tag information and verify if it is an A86/?? transmission.
  8. since the bushing got a hold of the t/c hub, somehow t/c would not come out. I believe the lock washer had something to do with it being stuck, I tried everything less aggressive to pull it out to no avail. What is going on with your Transmission? would help if you have some pix
  9. Hello Roy, yes I did end up replacing the front pump, it was damaged beyond repair. got it from zf dealer in Burlinggame California. Go to ZF website and look for dealers like Ericksson or try this link to locate a dealer in Canada ZF Transmission Dealers had to have the TC rebuilt, try Ericksson first for all parts needed, compare that with JAGGI IMPORT EXPORT JAGGI these guys can sell you the needed parts, not as a whole kit, some dealers only sell the whole kit which IMHO waste of money. As far as the Part List and that is from memory, starting from the outside in ( sorry you have to work on looking up the part #s (critical) 1. Bell Housing screews with washers ( qty 9 screws & 9 washers ) very important. do not use the old ones 2. Oil pan gasket and filter 3. Transmission Fluid ( the most expensive of all the parts, you do need around 9 qts ) 4. one you remove the valvebody (be gentle with it) the wire harness have 2 white washers. 5. differential Oil 6. 5 or 6 cylinderical rubber hoses about 1.5-2" in length ( you have to move out ) 7. once you get the Front Pump housing out of transmisson there is a BIG O-RING ( at least 11" in diameter or so ) 8. Front Pump 9. Coolant ( you will lose some ) 10. time, time, and more time 11. and most importantly PATIENCE
  10. Good Day all, PCA newsletter dated March 29,2011 have this article about IMS Upgrade & Retrofit Kits see the link IMS , or see that attched PDF file IMS Upgrade & Retrofit Kits.pdf
  11. Thanks wvicary, My last transmission fix was around june of last year ( it an annual event, unfortunately) I have done alot of troubleshooting between the tiptronic control module harness connector and transmission connector, so I disconnected transmission connector and reconnected many time. weird thing as I was taking car for short distances to test things with durametric, when I put the car back in garage idling, transmission did not respond to reverse or D or M modes, nothing happens, no movement (no faults present), then I shut the engine off and restart immediatley, magically I have reverse and other gears as if nothing wrong with transmission. I know I might have a problem with AOS, I have seen blue smoke after overnight engine start, but not often enough to warrant taking AOS out, because blue smoke problem started right after I had an oil change, and I think I put little bit extra oil. I have the top of engine exposed and engine does not sound normal when giving little jabs of gas, a weird sound comes from the AOS tube that connects AOS to the intake manifold. more like a vacum leak is the best I can describe it. I'm still in the process of troubleshooting, I'll double check the transmission connector again, just to make sure it is sitting right. thanks again wvicary. any more ideas is greatly appreciated. and thank you again Loren for the PM.
  12. Thanks Loren, I'm not clear on one thing " the coupling or brake is faulty" if possible to expand on this item please btw, I did clear all faults and none came back, I'm doing all the possible checks I can do for now.
  13. Good Day all, MY03 Tiptronic DME7.8 Tiptronic Saga continues, in the past I had problems with leaks, did a replacement of front pump rebuild t/c, but this time it is something new faults given by Durametric I did all the troubleshooting for faults indicated, everything checks out. Q: what extra diagnosis does PST2 and PIWIS can do over Durametric to narrow down the problem of tranny? any help is greatly appreciated
  14. Good day all, Sunday memorial weekend, while I was on a ride to Nevada City, Ca., coolant warning came on hwy 49 in Auburn Ca., did not think much of it other than need to add more coolant, then a gentelman behind me was flashing his lights, I though to my self is it someone I know, so I slowed down and the gentleman said " better watch your temperature gage, you lost a lot of coolant back there", so I stopped at a shopping center to investigate, now I can smell the burning coolant and can see a trail of coolant behind me, as soon as I stopped, I can see smoke on the right rear side, took a look under the car and coolant was leaking all over the parking lot in buckets (exaggerating), to make a long story short I was thinking it had to be a hose failure. AAA came to resuce (what was suppose to be a 20 min wait turned out to be one hour and a half wait) and towed car home. After exposing engine from top and front and jacked up the car, no hose failure in site (very odd I thought), so the next step would be getting distilled water to find out where the leak is, got 4 gallons of distilled water and 1.5 gallon later found where the failure is. #12 (Disc Valve) notice the separation of the black piece from white piece that is where the coolant was leaking from. this is the new Disc Valve so next step is to figure out how to get the darn thing out, considering the limited access from top of engine, got one factory clamp out of the way (from top of engine access) then disconnect water line supply #6 from ATF cooler from under car. then take everything out the top engine access. so if you have a chance to inspect the valve I would do so asap, or even better replace it. everything back to normal for now.
  15. Can you expand on what kind of failure you have with coolant!!! my the ecu for transmission got wet somehow and that might be the problem as well disregarding the display does the car drive normal?
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