xflyboyx

If it is the spark plug tube take a look at this website to remove the tube, ingenious http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site%203/Chang...26%20Tubes.html

sorry did not mean to have the emoticon , I guess b ) is the text equivalent

MY03 Boxster purchased with 54K miles sept 2007 1. 73k plus 2. a) at 64k = bad leak due to front pump bushing seizure on T/C hub (replaced front pump and remanfactured T/C) B) at 73k = leak not as bad as (a) still working on the problem. most likely replace or remanfacture T/C and replace Seal. 3. unkown before 54K (1st owner) One suggestion: I would also ask about driving/shifting habits, how often use M vs D mode? my driving habits . 99% M mode

Hi Guys, MY03 Boxster 2.7 Tiptronic Once again transmission is leaking, see first leak at First Time Leak but this time is not as bad as the first time. Seems that the T/C is out of commision ( I had it remanufactuered May08, 8 months later damaged again ). There was a whinning sound/noise coming I believe from the tranny, and from researching, if the whine/noise stops when car is not moving yet comes back when car is moving, that means the T/C is damaged. and that is evident form the pix below. The way I drive the car is 99.99% of the time on Manual Mode (the FUN mode :drive: I wonder, wait I think the M stands for Money sucking mode LOL), use it alot as a brake assist as well. and that's what got me in trouble I think the first time, I used to downshift to 1st gear from I believe 30 or 35 MPH and that's really stops the car on it's track, as most if not all tiptronic guys know. If you ask me now I'd say don't do it (not worth it unless you're going to hit something). I wonder how much stress that put on the engine and transmission!!! So after fixing that car the first time I never did that on purpose and I was very careful, I may have shifted to 1st by accident a few times (not from 30 or 35 MPH to 0 MPH). After hooking up the durametric software, found 2 fault codes for tiptronic. CEL did not come on. 9X6 Tiptronic Selected About to get fault codes moduleType = TiptronicG40 DTC Count = 2 Fault Number:82 Description:P1823 Pressure regulator3 DTC Count = 2 Fault Number:81 Description:P1818 Pressure regulator2 About to get fault codes moduleType = TiptronicG40 About to get fault codes moduleType = MotronicDME78 Q: Can these 2 faults be the cause of damaging the T/C, since they are pressure regulators? would this somehow cutoff the supply of ATF from reaching the mating surfaces of the T/C to the Front Pump Bushing and made it so hot that the T/C got scored that bad. I did clear the codes, topped off the ATF drove the car for about 50 miles, leak still there of course, fault codes are not in sight. Any input is much appreciate it, and any of you guys know of any high performance T/C made for Boxsters, or the standard one is it. Front Pump housing (showing seal and bushing no apparent damage,but will replace anyway)

bxtech look at this link tiptronic problem this might shed a light on your problem if it is not too late

Jeremy look at the pix of the front pump has the part#, I suggest go to this website http://jie.com/ juergen is the guy name I dealt with, they are very very helpful and can ship the parts to you in any way you want. I got the front pump from a transmission shop in san mateo, ca http://www.peterschmid.com/page1.htm ( ask for wolfgang, very nice man ) not sure if they have the pump in stock. front pump assembly pix most of the parts they come in a kit but these guys can sell them separately I had a hell of a time looking for these parts, I even almost got the parts from london, GB, but I stumbled into that jie.com website and got what I needed If you are going to do this yourself you need more than the front pump. there are 5 rubber sleeves ($7.?? a piece) that you need to take out to remove the front pump assembly ( again not any easy job, you have to be very patient) after you remove the valve body. you'll know what you need as far as parts once you disassemble the tranny. This is the Tranny parts catalog http://www.zf-group.com/pdf/5HP19FL.pdf let me know if you need more help question: when you decelerate to a stop lets say, do you shift down to 1st gear from 30mph or less in manual mode?

Jeremy I dealt with this problem earlier this year here is the link http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...l=rms&st=20 and yes it is fixable no problem, I did the job myself, the only thing is if you are mechanically inclined and this is not you everyday DIY requires alot of patience, time and money. Since you mentioned the seal race has seized then I assume the tranny is out of the car already. you have to look at the place where the seal race sits in that would be you front pump, if it is damaged then you have to replace the front pump and remanufacture the TC ( front pump I purchased from a tranny shop in san mateo ca for around $190.00 and remanufacture the TC for about $300.00). let me know if you are going to do it yourself and all get you more info on this

I'm on the road again, with car running smooth P0012 is history. just fyi for anyone that might be tackling this issue (problem started when bank 1 chain jumped over when changing IMS). When TDC mark on pulley and crankcase are aligned, both cyl.#1 and cyl#4 is at TDC. but both would at different cycle of the 4 cycles each cyl. goes thru (intake, compression, ignition, and exhaust) so at TDC cyl.#1 could be in the ignition cycle, while cyl.#4 would be at intake cycle, all depends on where the small circular cutouts are for each bank camshafts to make the correct timing. remember timing is everything!!! so the final word was and since I'm reinstalling only bank 1 camshaft. at TDC mark. bank 2 camshafts small circular cutouts has to lie down ( meaning toward engine and this is critical because if it is not then you timing is screwed up big time) and bank 1 has to lie outside as indicated on the above picutres in previous post. thanks for any input you have giving me. :renntech:

I think I'm not clear of what I'm asking. since we have 4 camshafts, 1 crankshaft, and no distributor(that would have solved my problem) , all have to be in sink to get the right timing. When pulley mark is aligned with crankcase mark TDC for cyl. #1. (which I have no problem locating), I know what position Bank 1 camshafts suppose to be at indicated by the small circular cutout at the end of camshafts. For Bank 2 camshafts (this is my main question) to be in sink with Bank 1 camshafts and crankshaft (and since we are at TDC cyl.#1), camshafts have to at a certain position and that should also be indicated by the small circular cutouts. (either lie at top just like Bank 1 camshafts when installed or lie at bottom to be in sink) note : for each 360 deg. crankshaft turn the small circular cutouts for either bank could be laying at top or bottom. I hope this would clarify any confusion I might have created.

Thanks Loren, I got that part when aligning the mark on the pulley with the mark on the engine (pix you attached) you are not necessarily at cyl. 1 TDC according to the shopmanual (from sunset import) because " Position of the camshafts in overlapping TDC of cylinders 1 or 4 "

seems that when I was replaced the IMS the chain jumped over and created the P0012 fault for bank 1 durametric software indicated camshaft postion 1 deviatioin was 25 deg for bank 1 and 1.04 deg for bank 2. I disassembled and removed Bank 1 camshafts, and now trying to put it back together, the problem I ran into is since there is no distributor to confirm that cyl. 1 is at TDC, there are small circular cutout at the end of each camshaft (inlet and exhaust of each bank), with the help of the TDC mark on crankshaft pulley aligned with the mark on the engine. you could be at either cyl. 1 TDC or Cyl. 4 TDC. as you can see my question is in the pix. any help would greatly appreciated :renntech:

FedEx ground it. as far as doing the label for FedEx ground, since it is a domestic shipment the local FedEx Express station or FedEx Kinko's will have the paperwork for you to fill out. Don't need to do it online ( and just fyi the FedEx online will require you to open a FedEx acount (which does not cost you anything to open, and there are no charges weekly or monthly) for individual account you need to provide a debit card or credit card, the only advantage to do it on line is you can sign up for 15% discount for 4 months and then go down to 10% according to the FedEx website and try to ready the agreement ( www.fedex.com and select USA ). and nowadays every penny counts. Good luck

Porschelibrarian you are God sent, I did PM you but my sent items is not showing that I have send a PM. Please let me know if you got it. My e-mail address is kawizx10r@yahoo.com Thank you very much, I can't thank you enough.

Thanks topmech0 any idea where to get the tools, and instructions.

Loren do you know if there is any special procedure I have to do to correct this. The workshop manual (workshopmanuals.co.uk) I have does not shed any light on how to correct this problem, engine installed.

Loren thanks for the quick reply I should clarify what I posted above as far as the porsche code 322 here is what the durametric software looked up " Boxster Selected 9X6 Tiptronic Selected About to get fault codes moduleType = TiptronicG40 Boxster Selected About to get fault codes moduleType = MotronicDME78 DTC Count = 1 Fault Number:P0012 Description:Porsche fault code 322 - Camshaft position with respect Repair Infomation:to crankshaft bank 1 About to get fault codes moduleType = MotronicDME78 " I looked up the 322 description on the OBD II Codes when I clicked on the DME 7.8 - Fault Texts. so I think I am mistaken by thinking that all the codes will apply to my problem. I did not mention that the IM SHAFT did move out of position when I took the old IMS out " can't remember if I removed the tensioners before or after the IM shaft moved out of place. I did remove right side OX sensor only and I did unplug it when I was doing the repair " ox sensor closest to the cat" So Loren do you think the chain is out of place or something. Do you think if I loosen the tensions and retorque them that might do the trick. thanks in advance

Hi All, MY03 Boxster Tiptronic 7.8 DME What I have done to the car is changing the tiptronic front pump, RMS and IMS. Doing the IMS, I had to take the Cam tensioners out, after installing the IMS, all I did is put the tensioner back and torque them to the specs. got a code P0012 Position of Camshaft in Relation to Crankshaft, Bank 1 - Above Limit Porsche code 322 Position of camshaft in relation to crankshaft, bank 2 P1340 P1340 3/6/6 How series is this code and what can be done to fix it? please help. ( car been sitting for 80 days on blocks) :renntech: appreciate any input.

Thanks Tool Pants

Hi All, MY 03 Boxster, 2.7L Tiptronic What is the RMS (4th generation) depth into the bore? What is the starting point and the end point of measurement? I'm changing RMS and IMS because I had a problem with transmission front pump had to be replaced. It was a challenging DIY job. so far i have it flush. can someone help please Thanks in advance

seems that the problem is worse than I thought, it is not just the scored part above that I need to replace the front pump and torque conveter also not to be replaced. according to one shop the pump has spun out, meaning and I'm quoting " the pump did not have enough fluid to pump so it got hot and went from there " so pump have to be purchased verses torque converter can be remanufactured. Does anybody know of good transmission shop that deal with ZF 5 HP 19FL transmission? from my research as far as parts I could not find any local transmission shop that have the parts. Help Please!!!

Ok after trying everything from what Loren suggested to every tool I can think of nothing worked. Even going to a transmission shop explained what I need, the guy said bring it over and will take a look at tomorrow, did not want to wait till tomorrow. Went back home and thought some more, then I thought of this tool Yes you guessed it, body puller. Had to dig it up. made sense that the center piece in the converter is to be used for pulling converter in case it get stuck. and this is the end result after many pulls and getting my fingers caught between the heavy piece of the body puller and the stop piece, was worth the few ounces of blood I lost in the process. and this is the problem I'm tackling at this point. shop manual calls for replacing #2 AND #3 in pix below (have the parts already from dealer, not sure if dealer carries the scored piece, any thoughts!!!) will update once I have everything reassembled.

will keep that in mind, thanks for the tip

Thanks Loren will try the wooden pry sticks tomorrow. hopefully will do the trick.

Thanks Loren well it is not coming out even with force. Does the transmission have to be in gear (shopmanual does not call for that and I don't think it matters), I even used an open wrench long enough, put one end behind the center piece of torque converter and used the housing as support to hit the other end with a mallet and that did not work either. would any inclination even lets say a couple of degrees affect it.

Ok tranny out Now I'm trying to get the torque converter out, and it seems to be stuck or is it I'm not pulling hard enough. BTW the rod that is holding the converter in place is out. dirty tranny clean tranny any hints really appreciate it