itzbob46

I bought a 3 yr powertrain warranty for about $1400 from and learned that these sales people would say ANYTHING to sell their product. They may both lie and/or are not knowledgeable of their product. I have never been so skeptical that I got screwed. I haven't had a claim, and I just hope that the claim process is more honest than the sales. Mine was purchased from AA Auto Warranty. I can't say that every sales person was as bad as the one that I encountered, but I would not be too hopeful. I never bought an extended warranty before and do not recommend such a product generally, but with a car that too often can experience engine failures that can cost 2/3 of the value of the car, I could not sleep well without a warranty.

shihman, Regarding your coolant leak.....Sorry, but this is not going to be too easy. I did the same repair last winter because the guy I bought the box from did the damage that you did. The #)$@#*# tricked me into buying the car by keeping his garage floor clean and washing the car immediately before I saw it. I didn't note the leak until I got it home (a hundred miles away). His mechanic changed the lower rad hose as he thought the connection was leaking!!!!! Well, anyway, if you crawl under the nose with a flashlight you will be able to look up the little vent holes under the bumper skin and follow the drip. The view won’t be really clear, but what is leaking is the where the plastic locator pin on the front of the radiator enters the bracket on the frame. The locator is likely cracked where it is attached to the plastic end of the radiator which is now garbage. My air scoop was also trashed as well as a broken tab that holds one of the bumper grills. I hope that you don't have to repair these as well. Do you notice that it leaks more when it's parked? As it cools? If so, my theory is that the hot expanded radiator tightens the crack against the rubber washer between the locator pin and frame, which slows the leak. At least it did on mine. The link that another poster gave you will be helpful for the mechanical work. You will need the wheel off as well as the inner fencer and bumper skin. Don't plan on doing a fast job on this. Good luck and feel free to write with questions as needed. Try Pelican Parts for a radiator. Change ALL of the related clamps and your hoses that attach to the radiator if more than 60K on the car. The photos attached indicate what stage you will likely have to go to with disassembly. The second photo shows the locator pin pulled out of the frame bracket. It's the pin with the cross on the end. Note dampness where it meets the radiator plastic end. Bob

I can't help but wonder what's with the fuzzy bathmat seat covers!!!!!!!! The sill plates are great but I wouldn't preserve the leather seats for the next owner. By the way, for the infamous GAP, would be an easy fill with black gasket sealant which is a silicone product.

Could you describe the wiring route and what was mounted on the sunshade? The switch is a great addition and uses up at least one of those blank switch spots on the dashboard. Thanks.

I checked in out on line and it seems like a great concept. Somehow, $80 seems like a bit much for it, but that depends on how badly you need it. I went through a bit of trouble finding a transmitter that would fit inside my ask tray but it works. If this was available at the time, I may have bought it instead. One concern: I have heard that flashing HID lights will reduce their lifespan. If this is true, this device may not be such a good idea for stock or conversion HID equipped cars. Can always be connected to some other lights such as parking that would require manually flipping the lights on and off.

Right now I'm trying to match Lapis Blue on my '01. Buying product from PaintScratch to do bumperettes. The first 2 attempts (spray cans) are too dark and the tint is off. They are working on a third mix right now. Wish me luck. They have a "hand matching" service for $35 extra, but I'm hoping I won't need that. Frustrating....good thing the car is in stg for the winter. Porsche doesn't make this easy. Bob

Hey drem914, what kind of city light bulbs were these? We all need to avoid buying these things. 100,000 hours is like driving 8 hours per day, every day for 34 yrs. You must have a hell of a commute to burn these out.........LOL. Perhaps some of these guys can recommend a quality substitute. If your voltage reg was truble, you would have other bulbs burning out all the time.

Chances are that it will eventually get worse forcing you to have a windshild replacement. It will definitely affect the eventual sale price of the car. Replacing it will probably not affect your insurance premiums. Get it done. You'll likely be happier with the nice new windshild. Talk to your insurance carrier about wanting OEM and not aftermarket glass before doing it. Bob

It would be soooooo easy to make comical some off-topic reply comments about this problem!!!!!!!! :D

This is getting better and better........After a few more guys post here we'll probably be getting them for free with the color of our choice!!!!!! lol Can't wait to go to Home Depot and check these out (although I already bought the discounted ones from Suncoast.)

Here's another source........ May have to buy 25 but at a very low price making it well worth it. http://www.autobodysupplies.com/Plastic%20...ody%20clips.htm

Why didn't I think of that..........? Auto parts stores do have a veriety of plastic plugs for various OEM interior and exterior repairs. That would be a good place to look. By the way, I have that identical silver Krylon paint used to do some trim work on an Infiniti plastic engine cover that was modified to accomodate a plenum mod. It works great. Sticks like crazy and had no problem with the engine heat. The BumperPlug.com guys should be willing to sell unfinished plugs. If we screw 'em up when painting they can have two sales, instead on one when we go back to order painted ones. Bob

Fantastic.........! Just ordered a pair (the $7.96 is the pair price). Shipping cost more than the plugs at $8.55 (I guess they are really heavy plugs :lol: ) I have the paint supplies (yeah, primers for plastic etc) to do my bumperettes, so I'll just do these at the same time. You saved me around $20. Thanks very much. Now I can afford that turbo setup :D Bumperplug.com claims a 16 step paint process!!! I'll add screwing them up and repainting, getting a few beers and taking a nature call and come up with a 20 step process!!!!!! Some would say that $20 isn't much savings.......but I doubt there is a reader that there is not a reader who wouldn't chase a $20 bill blowing in the wind. Bob

I have all the supplies to paint my car color on plastic, so I contacted BumperPlugs.com and asked to buy unpainted plugs and do them myself along with painting the rear bumperetts. They refuse to sell the plugs unfinished. Probably because they corner the market. Does anyone have another idea for creating bumper plugs? My car is a dark color, so the holes really don't show much worse than a pair of plugs. If the car wire a light color I would have paid the $34 (w/shipping) in an instant long ago. Thanks, Bob

Thanks guys........... I don't race it or have reason to spend money on new calipers. Just thought that if the rotors and pads could be exchanged/upgraded to S specs, without doing calipars, it would be an inexpensive upgrade. So, I'll just forget the idea. Bob

When I'm due for pads and rotors on my 2001 986, can I upgrade my non-S brakes to S size keeping the original calipers? I am wondering if the S caliper is actually different (bigger/better/etc) or just painted red??? Are they different on both front and back? Thanks, Bob

You can get a filter wrench for around $6 at a locak parts store.....you don't need that fancy Porsche one. Note the torque settings on filter and drain plug. Filter is bearly torqued. Always run your car after an oil change and check for leaks while it's fresh on your mind. Personally I'm not crazy about that 55# tire idea. That is more up to the tire mfg than porsche to advise. Just roll it a bit now and then. Leave the battery in and get a batt maintainer. Save some labor. I'm in CT and we have real winter, although not as bad as some places. Personally my car is stored Early Dec through mid March. That's only 3 1/2 months. ya know, it's just depreciating while you are trying to preserve it. There are nice days in Nov and March-Apr to enjoy your car. Bob

Another GT3 console delete for more leg room guy here at 6'3". Massive difference. Just spend a half hour taking apart the vertical portion of your console and drive it for a day or so. You'll see. No risk experiment! Bob

You guys with the CQ system are lucky. I either had a defect in my CQ kit or there is something weird in my electrical system that only shows up with this HID installation. Congratulations!!!

Interesting......My kit was more complicated including an igniter and a large capacitor as well in series with the ballast. I wonder why I had those problems. I may write these autosupermart guys and ask some questions about their return policy and the probs that I had. Thanks, Bob

Here's the new Smart version of the 911. A dream to park. Bob

I finally removed the entire kit. No problems since. Must be defective. I'm gong to try to get a refund. Bob

I'm talking about a 2001. Glad that you are not having a problem. What kit did you use??? Bob

Chippy ... See PM that iI sent you. Bob

I placed my hand on the spoiler while this was happening... if only shutters from the thump. It doesn't move. I have to take off the inner panelling to see what is actually in there. I say relay, but I'm not sure what's behind that rear panel on either side of the trunk latch. I think I'll be undoing the HID kit (CQ Light) since all of my electrical troubles started with the installation of that kit......CQ Light couldn't offer any advice. If that turns out to be the problem cause I'll push them for a full refund. Any more ideas? Bob