JonesnSince78

That is correct. The 356 offered a 'Carrera' engine option and those cars with the motor wore the Carrera badge. I believe this dates to 1955. Here's a 1963 356 sporting the Carrera badge. (Incidentally, the owner has that one for sale for $242,000!!)

I have not done this swap nor am I an expert, but the parts catalog lists different part numbers for 99-01 front fenders versus the 02+ fenders. So, you'll want to investigate what changed there before you start shopping for lights and bumpers.

Thanks. The chipped piece shown in my pics is definitely from shipping damage. So, it's after the balancing at the factory. I'm just not sure if it's enough to warrant messing with. Oh well, I guess there's only one way to know for sure. What a pain, I wanted to do this job tomorrow...

Maybe I'm being too obsessive... I'm hoping to do brakes this weekend (rotors, pads and rebuilt calipers). The nearest P-car dealer is a hike, so I ordered rotors and pads from one of the dealers who sells online. The parts arrived today and I was less than thrilled with the packing. All four rotors (inside their factory boxes) were put into one large box with lots of dead air space and a little bubble wrap. Needless to say, the bubble wrap did little to prevent 80 pounds of rotors from moving around. The outer box looked trashed on arrival. I inspected the rotors and three show no signs of damage and using a straight edge, don't look bent. The fourth isn't bent, but has a chip on one edge, pictured below. It's about 5/8" long, but only about 1/16" deep. I think it's out of the way of the pad so it won't interfere with it. But, I'm wondering if this would throw off balance at all? Are rotors even balanced at the factory? Would you use this?

There has been some discussion on this topic. I'm not sure any one knows for certain why. I think the general idea is that the computer needs some speed input to test the spoiler raising/lowering logic.

Just checking... Is it this light? Or this one? The first is the spoiler light. It is normal for it to be on until the car actually moves.

I changed plugs and coils this past weekend on my 1999 C2 cab. Replacing the coils completely fixed my rough idle when cold. The car also runs much better. I found two coils had significant cracks and two more had hairline cracks just developing. Why coils aren't called out in the maintenance checklist from Porsche is beyond me. (As well as why they haven't found better material to make the coils out of!) The project took me the better part of an afternoon as I took my time doing this for the first time on a P-Car. I had one fussy wire harness connector that took a while to separate from the coil. I found the spark plugs themselves quite easy to remove/replace on all cylinders. For me, the hardest part was removing/replacing the cap screws on the rear coils. Just plain awkward, but obviously, doable. For the previous poster, here are some pictures... 1. View of the shield on the right side of car looking from rear axle to the rear of the car. The two bolts to be removed are called out... 2. With the shield removed, this is a view of the coil on the forward cylinder. The two cap screws are clearly visible. To the top right of the coil is the wire harness boot... 3. This is a view looking across the head toward the rear of the car. You can see all three coils. Also visible are the two bosses that the shield bolts to... 4. This is a view of the forward cylinder with the coil removed. The wire harness connector is visible in the upper right. What's not obvious in this camera angle is how deeply the spark plug is recessed. It is about four inches to the bottom of that tube... 5. First cylinder done, new coil in place...

I can't speak for the Equus unit, but I'm really pleased with my Durametric. I really like the fact that it automatically saves all sessions to a log file on my laptop. All codes read and cleared are saved there so I can refer back to the data later if need be. The file logging feature is especially nice when reading actual values. If you're about to buy a car, being able to access total operating hours and ignitions in ranges 1 & 2 is also very useful. I'm also hopeful they'll add the ABS bleeding routine soon!

You lost me... why isn't it? :huh:

My 99 C2 cab with about 60K miles has been having issues with a rough cold idle. Once warm it smoothed out. Lately, the cold idle was getting more ragged. I've been going down the list of usual suspects. New filters, cleaned MAF, cleaned ICV, cleaned throttle body. None of these made much of a difference. After searching the forums, I was convinced it was the oil separator bellows. I went underneath and inspected the bellows. No sign of cracks or other wear. Not a single drop of oil around it. I decided to leave it alone. Searched some more. I found a thread in which someone suggested it might be an ignition problem, specifically one or more bad coils. I read some more about coils and the more I read, the more I thought this might be the source of my problem. As I was due to replace spark plugs for my 60K, I ordered six new coils in addition to plugs. Based on what I was reading it's best to replace them all when one goes, so I went ahead and bought six. I'm glad I did. I did the plugs today and found two coils had significant cracks and two more had faintly visible hairline cracks. After 'rebooting' the DME I fired her up and was absolutely floored by the difference. It idled a little fast as the DME sorted things out but quickly settled into a smooth healthy idle even though it was stone cold and hadn't run in four days. I let her idle for several minutes while putting tools away. I then took her out on the road and it was sweet. Best it's run since I've had it. :clapping: Thanks to RennTech for the archived info! :renntech:

LOL! I love seeing these "here's what was in my radiator" pics. There certainly is a lot of strange stuff that falls out. I think your dead bird takes the cake! :lol:

Read Joe90mmm's post, three posts above yours. I think it explains the issues quite succinctly.

Nice job! It's amazing what comes out of there isn't it?

Not sure if it's still true, but there was a convenience store/gas station at the corner of Routes 4 and 43 just East of Cornwall that sold 100 racing fuel. We stopped there often for snacks going to ski at Mohawk. Also don't remember if it was leaded or not, but if they're along the roadside, I guess it would have to be lead-free? If that's not too far, you might try that spot, too. Always thought it was an odd place for racing fuel, but I guess they were catering to the crowd from Torrington headed to Lime Rock...

Welcome and congratulations on your new banana. One of Renntech's best features is its search engine and the wealth of information archived. The reverse signal hook-up has been discussed many times. Here's a link to the most succinct thread... Reverse Signal Hook-up Good luck with your project!

Congratulations Chuck! Glad you are getting the car of your dreams. Also happy for you that things seem to have moved quickly/satisfactorily with the insurance settlement. Have fun!!

Hmm... you're BOTH wrong. Your pictures offer conclusive proof that it took 6 minutes. :P

Just curious -- is that pounds or dollars?

Chuck, Sorry to hear of the loss. Glad you weren't more in the "line of fire" with the airbag! I hope the insurance process is smooth and you get a nice settlement out of it -- then have a blast test-driving all those TTs!! Bill

Did you ever solve this riddle? I just went through the same exercise (installing the IceLinek) and got the same result -- no CDC option is offered. Thanks in advance for any help!

All I got to say is: Hmmm, a Porsche dealer who hasn't changed rotors in 5 years??? I understand the condo issue, but one of the beautiful things about these cars is the simplicity of the brake work. If you can find a workspace somewhere, you could do this work for WAY under the price quoted.

I found a link to a PDF of the product manual in English. Looks easy enough as Thorsten stated. I might just have to get one of these. Thanks for the info, Thorsten! Link to manufacturer's PDF file...

How 'bout that -- an instant "Half-off Sale"!!! Imagine what their profit margin is at the "regular price". :rolleyes: Good job scoring the lower price... and good on ya for contributing! :thumbup:

I bought a PET CD-ROM on eBay a while back. Well worth the approx $20. That's how I found the part numbers. I got the price the old-fashioned way by calling the man. As an aside, you've received a fair amount of assistance the last few weeks from this site. Might it not be time to contribute?

AFAIK, Porsche only sells a complete assembly of the grill and speaker elements. About $60 each side at Suncoast. 9966450470201C -- right 9966450480201C -- left