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Hi machster, How did you find out that your cats needed to be replaced? Noise or obd-2 assessment? My 01 is making a rattling noise during light throttle at 2500 to 2800 rpm or when coasting to a stop in 2 nd gear and the engine rpm comes into the same 2800-2500 range. Any description of your experience will be of assistance. Thanks in advance
I had similar problem. First noticed it while drving, the lock LED would come on. I traced it to the passenger side door latch mechanism. Well just opening and closing the door multiple times, and bamging on the interior door panel, the led lit up. It was annoying, but not critical until the car would not lock. The door open/closed switch was bad (it was the solder joint for the switch) . Try on both doors. With the window full up, pull door handle. The window should lower about 1/4 - 1/2 inch. Let go of the door handle. With the door open, the window should stay down. If it goes up, then the switch is bad.
When you clear the CEL codes, the car needs to be driven for some the to remove the not ready flags? BMW has BMW FTP driving cycle that if you execute it will make the not ready flafs to ready. As for the technical portion, The most that my car had at one time were P1128 and P1130. Cleaning MAF fixed for 2 years. The second time, replaced the MAF. Some say that cleaning the MAF works for couple of time, the it needs to be replaced. Good luck
2001 2.7L, purchased in 2006 @57k miles. Went over the century mark in May of 2010. Now at 123K miles as of Aug 2012. Axle bearing, cv boots, AOS, coolant resoviour, engine mount, water pump, two sets of tires. 997 short shifter. Otherwise stock. Use for daily drive.
for my installation, the right cable fell right in place at the mark. the left cable was about 1/4 inch short. but i left it so. as for my rationale, simple trig equation and did not verified it by inducing gross offset. In reading this and other threads, i did not want to deviate from the norm, but when i encountered this 1/4 inch difference, i chose to not pull the cable.
The green alignment tool was positioned with the opening towards the left per ATTA’s posting. Little more description of my installation thinking - not restoring cable to adjuster at the marked points. I assume that the tool kept the lever at the center, both fore/back and left/right such that equal tilt equal travel; simple trig. If you pull the cable align marks, then with the tool removed, the shift lever would have an offset , left/right or front/back depending on which cable was pulled or pushed.. This offset will induce unequal throw from neutral position, nominal 3-4 gate (5 speed) to gears. Throw to 1st may be longer than throw from neutral to 2nd. Similarly for left/right gates.
You can never go wrong if mark the cables or count the threads and then put them back where they came from. (Unless, of course, it was not adjusted correctly in the first place -- but you would notice that). shift is precise and no functional problem. so should I just leave it as is?
I just installed 997-424-010 shifter into my 01 5 speed boxster. in reading this thread, I deviated in the installation of the left cable. I did mark the cable end/adjuster before removing my old shifter. but when it came time to re-attach the cable to the new shifter's adjuster, I did not pull on the cable to re-algn the mark as stated in Halo's description/photo instruction. I figure that the cables being attached to the transmission is at it's desired location; neutral (fore/aft) and at the 3-4 gear selection (side to side). Also assumed that the green tool that comes attached to the shift lever is holding the shifter at center. should I have pulled the left cable up to the originally marked spot?